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A few questions: How long have you been looking? Imho, if under 3 months, that's nothing. If under 6 months, that's so-so. If ~1+ years, then you know the market pretty well. Imho, most important of all, how very well do you know of "all of the common problems/issues" with that exact year, model, engine, tranny, etc? Remember, parts/things fail because of usage, and age. For example, the LX5 engine that I have is a knowN POS. There's a good chance of the head gasket failing. And, it's a MASSIVE pita/expense to replace. When I got my 2000 Olds, a 100% factory brand new engine where still available, and for a "reasonable" price! So, I bought a brand new engine, and had a replacement engine already. I did buy the new engine, knowing that there was also a probability of the original engine lasting a long time. I put in the new waiting replacement engine, many years ago, after the head gasket went on the original engine. For my Quad4 engines, those are known to blow head gaskets at 60K or 8+ year miles - just because. But, it's not a "horrible job" to replace, if someone has done a head gasket/etc before. And, the newer head gaskets "help". The head bolts/clamping are still under-designed. Btw, I now have over 100K miles on the updated GM head gasket on my Quad 4. So, knowing the potential issues with a model, year, engine, etc is important. One of my first pets was a Mastodon . So, I've been around a while. I've seen plenty of posts about people finding their "dream car after a few years", then not buying it because it was $500-$1000 "over what they wanted to pay". Uhm, ok. People have to decide what to do with their money. Fwiw, my story: For various reasons, I started looking for a "unicorn" car - especially since I wanted a little/no-rust and low-mileage, and hopefully within driving distance of "New England". After ~18 months, during lunch, I looked on the various sites. I found a potential car! That poor owner had to put up with many texts from me before I say the car, after I saw the car, and on the day we were going to meet at the bank to sell and transfer the car. After I first looked at the car, I mentioned to the owner that they were asking at the top of the market value of the car. I could see they weer getting ready to haggle. Then, I offered $500 more than the asking price, with $300 more if we could do it that Saturday (in two days). My Big Regret after many years? Imho, I was too low on that price. Looking back, if I was a second buyer, knowing more about the likely-hood of finding that unicorn car, I would've gone $1,500 to $2,000 over the asking price. The thing is many "unicorn cars" are worth between 1/4 of the typical price up to 3X the typical price. It depends on of there is a buyer looking for that unicorn car. A good example is a car with manual tranny. Those have a very very very low appeal to 99.9999% of the car buyers. So, someone might be able to pick one up in good shape for cheap, because the owner is sick and tired waiting for the car to sell. On the other hand, if there's another person wanting the same unicorn car at the same time, they can come in and offer not only the asking price, but a little more. So, it's a gamble when looking for a unicorn car. Especially is one is found that "is close". For me, my unicorn car hit every "must-have and want". Again, it's up to each person. They know their financial plans. For me, it meant that I'd put off getting my Mustang painted for a few years, while I concentrated on doing a minor rebuild and refresh on the mint engine with 85K miles on my unicorn car. Why? I was doing/adding other items - brand new supercharger along with professional porting, etc. I didn't want to put $$$$ of parts into/around a tired engine. Hence, why I wanted a low mileage, dealer maintained engine. So good luck. I hope that car is what you've been really looking for. If not, maybe wait, maybe don't wait.

Call three banks, ask what they'll give you for a loan on it.

On a 1992: 1) Coil spring seats. GM powder coated most of the suspension parts in 1992, and over time, even in areas without much salt use, the powder coat breaks down, trapping moisture against the metal. Which eventually causes its failure. The coil spring seats are notorious for collecting water, holding water against the metal, and suffering failure. Can be a pretty serious issue, and the only way to fully and properly inspect is disassembly of the entire strut tower assembly off the car. On-car inspection is not possible. 2) Lower cooling hose/pipe assembly. Directly exposed to road grime/etc., and the metal part beneath the coolant recovery reservoir tends to rust out. 3) Leaf Spring seats -- the rubber "ends" of the fiberglass leaf spring often 'dissappear' over time, leaving the fiberglass leaf spring end to directly rub. Makes a bunch of noise when you hit bumps. But still worthy of inspection and of course, repair when necessary. 4) Rear brakes, especially the e-brake. Tend to seize up and become inoperable. 5) Stock front-brakes suck. If you're doing the inspection and/or addressing the coil seat problem as described in #1, do yourself a favour, hit a junkyard, and get a set of new steering knuckles/strut tower assemblies off of like a 1997 Lumina or something. Make sure to grab the brake rotors as well. Other than that, welcome to the forum! I have a 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, and that's basically a synopsis of what I've gone through.