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Everything posted by mfewtrail

  1. Silicone w/ ptfe is the GM recommendation I believe. WD-40, engine oil, etc. will all work fine though.
  2. You're welcome. What size battery cables are you running?
  3. Your wood block picture = you need a bracket from another W' to accomplish that spacing or you need to drill your current one. Here's a '94 bracket in a car w/ a 3800 for example: Click thumbnails for full size.
  4. The 94+ fail in the same way the pre-93's do in my experience. I've seen several of them with weak assist. In both 94+ and pre-93, most of the cars I've seen with weak brakes had A LOT of miles on them before it was an issue. Typically 175,000-200,000+.
  5. I have a weak booster that's a reman on one of my cars currently I need to swap out. This thing has piss-poor assist right out of the box. The weak booster I was replacing honestly might have had a little more assist to it...
  6. Get an assistant to pour water or coolant in while you watch for the leak from up top. If you can't see anything leaking there, but you've got coolant gushing between the engine and trans, then you could have a freeze plug that has failed between the engine and transaxle.
  7. Almost certain a 1989 3800 will have a steel cam gear. I think the nylon gears were phased out by the time the 3800 received a balance shaft(1988). As for the clatter: Does it sound like it's from the top of the engine or bottom on that side? If you're in the US(not sure from your username) and have a Harbor Freight nearby, pick up a cheap mechanic's stethoscope. That will help you pinpoint the noise to a specific area.
  8. A bad vacuum modulator will not cause a no shift issue. It controls the firmness of the shifts based on vacuum. If the modulator is bad or the vacuum supply to it is, it will shift a lot harder under normal driving conditions. Get a new "trans guy" asap. As for vacuum, 8 in/hg is far too low, unless you're at some crazy altitude. Use that same gauge on another known good running vehicle to make sure you're not chasing your tail over a bad vac gauge. 18-22 in/hg is about normal. Subtract around 1 in/hg per 1,000 ft rise in altitude.
  9. A tip that might help in the future: The little wiper adapter or locks can often be removed from old wipers and installed on the new IF the new wiper doesn't have a proper one so that it actually locks in place. Keep an eye on those Michelin blades to check for separation. I had a set start separating on the ends that was less than one year old recently. Prior to that, I never had an issue with them, so hopefully they were just a bad batch. I make a habit of inspecting the blades every time I wash a car and also wash them off at that time. If you check them out regularly, you'll catch any separation issues before they cause scratches on your windshield.
  10. Can you not edit the '00 GTP pcm to have the transmission settings from the '04? Also: Have you compared the the actual '00 to '04 diagrams to try to determine a difference? If that pinout chart was made by someone, I wouldn't trust it fully. I should have probably read the entire thread before asking that question considering you actually posted the diagrams above. edit: Another wiring diagram source to compare Mitchell(they're usually pretty good, but you can find inaccurate information from time to time. Same goes for any resource. Even the factory manuals have errors - found one a while back on a '94 Regal that could have thrown me off had I not checked "just in case." It was listing a wire as having full time power when it was actually switched.) Follow this link, agree to the license agreement, then switch the Wiring tab and select the cars you want.
  11. The pre-94 compressors work fine with R134a conversions for what it's worth. 36*F vent temperatures on a 90*F day is what I get in my converted '93. I can't tell a difference in it and my '94 that came with R134a. Those control valves are available separately and should be pretty cheap these days. I personally wouldn't bother with changing one out unless it's faulty though.
  12. I could probably dig up a picture of a window sticker for you to modify. What options(leather, cd, sunroof) does your car have and what color is it inside and out?
  13. Someone posted about getting their seats recovered several years back. I seem to think they paid $500 or a little over that per front seat recovered in leather. Maybe someone else can remember who it was and link you to that thread. I tried to briefly search for it, but came up empty handed.
  14. Your oil pump failed? I'm not sure I've ever even heard of an oil pump failure on a 2.8/3.1. Anyway, you should still be able to get Melling pumps made in the USA.
  15. Engine performance is what's always cited. More power available with it off. With as high of hp stuff they produce today, I would imagine the difference would be negligible , especially in a non-racing situation, so compressor longevity might be another consideration. If you're blowing fuses because the compressor is engaging(or re-engaging), I would assume you have a clutch issue and it's drawing too much current.
  16. mfewtrail

    3.1 Plugs and Wires

    Slaving the engine forward is still quicker than that if you're easily able to do it. Removing the alt is a solid option as well though and doesn't take a whole lot more time when removed with the bracket attached. They still make tools to help you pull the engine forward by the way. Thexton offers one. I would assume you should be able to locate some of the ones other brands used to offer years ago as well, several places made them. The dogbone has a hole for holding the engine forward if you reinsert the bolt by the way, I assume your manual should cover that.
  17. Is the strut housing rusted through where the spring seat sits or is it just the spring seat? The seats are replaceable. If it is the strut body that you're needing, you're probably going to have to visit a junkyard to grab one, buy one from someone here, or have someone here visit a jy to grab you one.
  18. Low miles on that one. Like you, I would assume the brakes were the reason it was parked. If you're brake swapping it, take a few pictures for us or at least type up a parts list. If you get a chance, please snap a picture of how you routed the ps lines on the car you've already swapped.
  19. Maybe post this to the facebook TGP group to get more eyes on it(sorry, I don't have a link for you, but someone else here should be able to link you. I don't use FB, but know there's a group on there since others have posted about it). Oddly enough there are two "new" TSTE badges on ebay currently, but unfortunately, they are in the much more rare Garnett red color.
  20. Almost guaranteed that's what happened. I'm surprised the bolt bored through as clean as it did without breaking a large chunk out of the cover.
  21. Probably can't go wrong with any cast impellar pump from a parts store. Opt for the "new" pump. There might still be stores that carry USA made ones. Autozone used to...but it's been a long time since I've installed a 2.8/3.1/3.4 pump so those could have gone the way of the dinosaur. I guess you could look up old cross reference numbers and potentially find a usa made unit on ebay. Maybe email that seller and see if that pump is USA made -get them to snap a picture of the country of origin on the box. This is the same part number as my really old usa made pump and might be a rebrand of it. If it is made in the US, that's a good price.
  22. There are always compromises or extra work involved in universal parts in my experience. Was anything wrong with the original boot or did you just want a color change? Easiest way to ensure a good fit and easy installation would be to have an interior or upholstery place duplicate the factory boot in the color and style of your choice. Of course that isn't the cheapest option. Second best would be to source a good condition boot from another one of these cars if your boot was tore and you just wanted a direct replacement in the same color.
  23. mfewtrail

    Trunk leaks

    ^This. The studs on the taillights have sorta rubber washers on them and they disintegrate with age. . When they're bad enough, you can end up with a spare tire well that accumulates a lot of water.
  24. I would opt to get wheel bearings elsewhere from an actual known brand personally. You can get Moog, Timken, or SKF from Rockauto for around $50ish each. They currently have some Moog's that are on closeout from some location for $36.XX a piece with a 30 day warranty. Even though Moog has went to offshore manufacturing years ago, the wheel bearings still seem to be solid quality from what I've seen so far. I have one on a personal vehicle that's been right around 30,000 miles in the last two years for what it's worth. If your bearings aren't actually bad, I woudn't be changing them just to change them. It's not uncommon for wheel bearings to outlive the car on 1st Gens. Between two w-bodies with about 500,000 miles combined, I've only had to swap out one of the original wheel bearings so far.
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