Leaderboard

I don't see why you would need to rotate the engine to put the valve in a specific place, that's generally to accommodate adjustable rockers. I have never done it on any 60 degree or 3800.

The issue on the 2.8 and the 3.1 LH0 I believe is that the intake bolts themselves don't have any (blue) Loctite on them, and the torque spec is a little inadequate. So what ends up happening is when subjected to heating and cooling cycles, they leak along the horizontal plane of the gasket, but don't actually suffer any visible gasket failure. The force exerted by the intake bolts simply isn't good enough to keep everything tight and sealed during the extreme thermal transients experienced during at shutdown. (shutdown = peak temperatures, as there is no coolant circulation). The job was done twice on my (LH0) 3.1 MPFI after leaking LIMs, at around 50k mi (by previous owner), and then again at around 90k mi. The gasket itself that I removed was in pristine condition (and probably could have been safely re-used, although I ended up replacing with a brand new Fel-Pro), and applying a higher torque value and using blue Loctite (or Permatex Blue actually) has resolved the issue for the past ~70k mi. If you buy a brand new bolt kit, they often come pre-coated with a blue thread locking material, but I just re-used the existing hardware (give the bolts a good clean in solvent/brake cleaner to remove residual oil!).

They just get torqued down. There is no adjustment. Put both the rockers and the pushrods back in the exact same places they came out of (the 60 degrees use two different length pushrods). Do you need to replace the intake gaskets because they're leaking? 50k miles is pretty low to have those gaskets leak, especially on a Gen 2 motor, which don't really tend to have issues.