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I acknowledge that this is an old thread, but the title is perfect for future searches...and it's how "I" found it. Thought I'd show you how I installed the aftermarket nylon pads. Took two hours to stare into space "inventing" the tool, actually fabricating the tool, and driving to the hardware store for fully-threaded bolts. Took about ten minutes per side to actually install the plastic pads once I had the vehicle ('93 Lumina) lifted up with the wheels hanging free. The first set of nylon pads I looked at were absolutely destroyed when we opened the package at the local NAPA. Someone had tried to install them, brutalized them beyond belief and then PUT THEM BACK IN THE BOX AND RETURNED THEM TO THE STORE. If you're a Total Moron and live in the Seasonally Frozen Wastelands, you're probably my down-the-street neighbor. Good thing my local NAPA had two sets in stock. I left with the second set. Spring compressor tool requires: 24" of channel steel, cut 10" (two pieces) and the remainder is 4". Ten inches is a bit longer than absolutely needed; but the extra length doesn't interfere--and maybe makes this tool useful on some other vehicle. Four 1/2-13 nuts. All nuts are welded to channel steel, but the nut on the smallest piece has the threads removed by running the 1/2" drill bit through it before welding it to the channel--it just pops over the end of the bolt but does not thread onto it. That nut just prevents the small piece from sliding out of position. Two 1/2-13 X 6" bolts One 1/2-13 X 3" bolt The short bolt pictured can be cut down, it is inconveniently long. One ~1/8 drill bit to make pilot holes for the 1/2 drill bit One 1/2" drill bit to make 5 holes and remove the threads from one nut 3/8" or 1/4" drill motor for pilot bit 1/2" drill motor for 1/2 drill bit Weld nuts to channel as shown. With all threaded nuts on top of the channel, the welds are not critical--just keeps 'em from turning; or from getting lost when the tool is rattling around in the tool box. The heat of welding slightly distorted the nuts, I ran a 1/2-13 tap through the three nuts with threads. Spring compressor painted and pretty. [EDIT--note that I have changed the bolts, the end ones are not threaded all the way] Compressor installed on right side. Center screw jacks up spring. Have to be careful to NOT jack spring up so high that it jams the end of the spring against the bottom of the strut housing. I can imagine spring damage if it's forced up too high. I cleaned out all the gravel and loose rust; and knocked loose rubber from the original spring pad off of the spring. New spring pad taps in pretty easily. Does not quite push in by hand. See how the lips on the bottom of the pad hug the hub carrier? The compressor in place after the pad is installed. I painted a thin film of grease on the spring and pad contact surfaces, but I don't think that's critical--and may just be a trap for road grit. Nothing left to do on this side but to unscrew three bolts and remove tool. Markings on the aftermarket pad. No, it's not made BY Moog, but it may come packaged in a Moog or NAPA or Advance Auto or CarQuest box. Smooth side goes against spring, ribbed side goes down. The original equipment rubber pad--slightly worn. And the OEM rubber pad as you might find it on your vehicle--partially separated from the spring. I used the hammer and a long pry-bar as a chisel to remove the pad. Use caution, you do NOT want to gouge the spring in the process of separating it from the rubber pad.