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The nice thing about the much-unloved first-gen rear calipers is that you don't need any stinkin' special tool or "cube" to push the rear pistons in. DISCONNECT the lever on the back side of the caliper, push the pistons in with a C-clamp (I use a C-clamp style Vice-Grip.) Then reinstall the lever, washer, and nut. The threaded rod spins instead of the caliper piston. Never dicked with the newer-style rear calipers, so I don't know if you can do something similar with them. As already said, don't push old fluid backwards through the system. Pinch off the rubber hose, open the bleeder valve, remove the old fluid. The fluid at the caliper is typically the most-polluted stuff in the whole system. There's no point to doing a rear brake job and then not performing whatever steps it takes to adjust the rear brakes. On the first-gens, you need to activate the park brake to adjust the rear calipers. I don't know about the newer design(s). I wouldn't get too worried about "penetrating oil" on the Torx-head caliper bolts up front. Just muscle 'em out, 'cause if they're seized, the penetrating oil is unlikely to help, and if they're not seized, the penetrating oil is unlikely to help. Once removed, I've heated the bigass sleeve with a torch to free it, tried to work some anti-sieze between it and the bolt (tough to do) and then hope for the best.

ABS is certainly something one would see at a glance. This is my 96 and that masterpiece of crap hanging off the MC is the ABS pump and valve assembly.