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Manic and I were just kinda talking about this subject. 1991 was the last year for the UB3 cluster (like your vert). You could still get the base digital cluster in 92 and 93, otherwise it was an analog one. Some verts have the base digital cluster but are not very common but more common on sedans. Actually, a maintenance guy at work has a 92 CS sedan with the base digital cluster. He recently had to get it repaired. How did I do guys?

The other day I saw a ‘92 Cutlass Supreme coupe with the base digital cluster in it. I thought after ‘91 they went back to analog clusters? Were digital and analog offered in ‘92?

This is the place I got my moldmaking rubber and plastic from years ago. It was easy to work with, all you need is a single good one to pull a mold from and you can reproduce infinite replacements for a few cents a piece, and in a variety of colors. There are different grades of plastics and some of them are VERY tough. https://www.smooth-on.com

What about finding OEM at the JY and restoring them to new?

There are exceptions to every rule. I came across this 1993 S sedan with a full digital cluster a long time ago. It was definitely added but I'd love to know the story as to why, it isn't a straight swap.

This is the one Advance auto sells on the right. Overall not bad but they could have done the reliefs under the door handle cleaner. I have to release the handle quickly to get it to settle in it's fully rested position too. Take lots of pictures of the inside before you dismantle it and be careful with the fragile lock illumination ring.

I'll buy a set. Aluminum, plastic, steel, wood, rubber, scrimshaw, I don't care as long as they fit, mine isn't a show car. Currently I just have the original broken plastic pieces wrapped in duct tape and jammed back in the hole in the header. I could engineer a better solution, but I've got so many other projects going on I'd rather just let someone else figure it out and pay them. I would prefer an easy replacement, something I could just drop in with some adhesive without having to disassemble the header.

I experimented on this last night. I didn't get to the solution, but wanted to update everyone on progress. I took the valve stem seal, along with a rubber grommet and external spring clip (both bought from Lowes). I then inserted the grommet into the hole on the spare windshield header I have. Then I cut 3 small groves in the valve stem seal with a dremel so the external spring clip can lock around the valve stem seal and test fitted the spring clip. It locks nice and tight around the valve stem seal. Then I inserted the valve stem into the grommet and put the spring clip on. Nice and tight fit and all is good right? Nope. What I didn't account for is the windshield frame. The windshield header (which is what I mounted the valve stem seal in) mounts to the windshield frame. There's a hole in the windshield frame directly under the hole in the windshield header. The original cup is longer so it can pass through both the windshield header and the windshield frame with enough length to attach the locking washer. As you can see, the valve stem seal isn't long enough to pass through both header and frame. It looks like it comes through far enough, but it doesn't. This pic was taken with the rubber grommet removed...the valve stem seal just isn't long enough. This would work if you wanted to remove the header, secure the valve stem seal to the header as I've shown, then put the header back on the frame. I'm going to look for some longer valve stem seals and see what I can come up with.