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'99 GP is the same suspension platform as the '02..........you'll be SOL

Please post some pictures or a video so we can see what is going wrong?

I suppose if I were to go the route of a new heart *exotic* transplant the LFX from the Cadillac ATS & the 6T75 trans would be my choice of powerplant. I won't sneeze at a 320 hp na V6.

My suggestion to you is to do all you can to stay with a replacement LQ1, if you choose to do otherwise you'll have to deal with the electronic side of the issue. For '91 the trans behind the LQ1 is the 4t60-e, now that may not seem to be much of a concern but the ECM in the car is programmed for the LQ1 & the 4t60-e. You look to drop in another engine of choice & now you have to reprogamme the ECM to accommodate that replacement engine. The mem-cal inside the ECM housing is specific to the LQ1 for that year & that trans.

I did this swap myself and am very happy with it. The 91-93 sliders are a horrid design. Even with the later aluminum slider they seize up. I got my donor parts off a 96 regal and rebuilt the callipers and powder coated them. I bought new rear cables for a 96 as well and used a female threaded coupler to tie the equalizer and right rear cable together. I can’t remember exactly but part #9 was different between the years. To make it work I cut the threaded rod coming out of part #9 in the photo and screwed the coupler onto it and then screwed the right rear cable rod into the other end of the coupler. The coupler is right at the #8 spot in the photo. Works great. You’ll need to replace the callipers, rotors, calliper brackets, get new rear park brake cables, left and right from a 94-96. very easy swap.

If one updates the older caliper to the newer design one must also make use of the later rotor for the 94+ caliper. One cannot mix & match *old* with *new*.

First Gen rear calipers: DO NOT "turn the piston" to wind them back in. This is possible, but it's a waste of effort, and a waste of time. REMOVE the park brake lever (one nut, and washer) Push the piston STRAIGHT IN, (I use a vice-grip C-clamp) the threaded rod spins instead of the piston. Re-connect park brake lever once the piston is retracted. Don't forget to reset the park brake by applying it several times after the rear brakes are reassembled.

The first-gen rear calipers get a lot of negative feedback on various forums. My two vehicles ('92, '93) have had ZERO problems with the rear calipers. They're easy to service, they do not need "special tools" to "wind the piston back in". I replaced the rear calipers (using stock-replacement "rebuilt" calipers) on one vehicle because of all the bad publicity; but nothing changed. Swapping to the later calipers is a lot of work for no benefit. It's possible for calipers to become seized or "sticky"; aluminum calipers are worse in that regard than iron calipers. So, sure, you might need to rebuild or replace calipers that have an actual fault. Merely swapping good "first gen" calipers in proper working condition for good "second gen" calipers in proper working condition is not really an upgrade in my opinion; and if you're giving up the park brake, it's a downgrade. And probably illegal, too. If you're having problems with poor braking power, and a hard pedal...you probably need to replace the booster not the calipers, and properly bleed (flush) the hydraulic system.

I did the 94 swap on my cars 100% for the sake of reliability, nothing else. the rear cables are different, but the front one still works as does the pedal the rub is there is a bracket spot welded to the rear frame rail, drivers side that needs to be drilled out and swapped with one from a donor car. I wanna say I just used self tapping sheet metal screws to put the new bracket on my car, not ideal and one of these days I should go back and weld it on now that I have the ability but its been holding up fine since I did the swap in 2008 or 2009

I've found a shop that will do the front strut cartridges, and as an added bonus, by sheer dumb luck I located and bought an ADDCO 474 rear sway bar which they will also install. I gave up looking for one of these years ago but while looking for something else on Amazon I stumbled on just one they had in stock. Its now in my garage waiting to be installed. I just placed in another post regarding the front strut tower brace being 2 different 3.4 versions and I was wondering if anyone had ever seen the version wherein it's bent in 2 spots to account for the intake manifold.. I need to get another one of these 3.4 bars as the one on the car now will probably be no good as its mangled up and will more than likely fall apart.

It's been 10 years since I did the fronts, I also installed KYB's, except for being (in my opinion) too soft they have been trouble-free, also noise free.