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Everything posted by 55trucker

  1. Well the steering will behave just like any other vehicle (such as mine) that doesn't have the variable assist. At speed the steering will feel much lighter than what one feels with the lower assist option.
  2. My model year does not make use of the *EVO*.....what has happened to yours? Did the valve fail in in the full open position or the closed position?.....or is the valve full of debris & the PCM cannot move it....using an ohmmeter will allow one to test the coil inside the solenoid. Bypassing it will only allow full assist to the steering all the time, the purpose of the valve is to decrease the assist at highway speeds to improve road feel.
  3. Where is the trans leaking from? The input & output shaft seals are still available. They are relatively common items.
  4. Depends on which of the 6 diodes would be to blame......if any of the negative diodes fails that will cause an a/c current to flow causing a *ripple*, if one or more of the positive diodes is weak or goes open the voltage/current will drop. One will see that at idle with a voltmeter, raising the engine rpm to get the alternator to spin faster will raise the output masking the problem. The regulator limiting the output will not take effect until the alternators voltage output reaches the regulators designed built in setting 13.8-14v.
  5. My 1st impression is that the diode pack is at fault. If the output falls off when at idle (under any circumstance) that would be an indicator of such an issue. When you received the new diode pack did you check each diode to be sure they all passed current in only one direction & not the other?
  6. What you're describing is precisely the reason why I avoided the pre 94 boosters. There is/was just too much chance for a hit-or-miss situation. The Cardone reman piece I purchased from Rockauto also would have been a headache to send back seeing as it had to come across the border.
  7. Well, when the situation gets to the point where ones tolerance of the issue wears thin ones determination takes over. The wife won't drive the car (her tag line has become..*sell it*), I don't enjoy being behind the wheel, when on the road a more than average amount of space is has to be maintained from the vehicle in front of you. All the fun goes out the window just because the vehicle won't slow down in an appropriate manner. But you don't blame the entire vehicle because one single part isn't functioning properly. Hopefully now she will have a renewed confidence in the car once again. *yep ...that's the relay cover you sent to me*
  8. A the time I approached this I was skeptical about choosing one of the pre '94 boosters, I did not want to purchase another 9" item on the thinking that what's in my '91 may very well be in a '93. 23 years ago I had pulled the booster & sent it into the rebuilder (that we the truck shop I was employed at made use of) to open it up & look inside to see what could be altered to make the booster more user friendly, the return spring was lightened, the reaction body was also replaced but the difference was only marginal. Seems those first W platform boosters internals were a direct steal from the Fiero boosters & THOSE boosters did not function very well as well. Brake upgrades are common to Fieros, one upgrade includes replacing the original booster with an S10 booster.
  9. No, I have other plans for the front knuckle assembly, I am keeping my older knuckles ,it will involve cutting/removing the welds that hold the caliper support to the the knuckle, then I have to reconfigure the caliper support by shearing off the end, fabbing a section from some high strength alloy to be welded into the support at the cut points, then the support will be re-welded back onto the knuckle so as to place the caliper in the proper location for the 12" rotor. (essentially doing what GM did when they installed the 11 1/4" rotors in place of the 10 1/2"..of course their support was a ready made stamped piece that fits the application)
  10. Selecting the newer 12" booster requires the changes I had to make, if I had the later heater hose inlet pipe on hand I wouldn't have had to refab the current piece, the 12" booster also dictated the need for the later a/c pipe as well. I wasn't aware that GM altered the threaded fitting on the receiver/dryer end. The car stops decently now..........for the last 28 it did not.
  11. For as long as my wife & I have owned the GP the brakes have always been a ? (question mark), I have never liked the way they responded when applied, the fronts have always done more than what they were designed to do & the rears have always just *gone along for the ride*. In the past I have had the booster recalibrated to try & make it more effective, I've had the master apart to get a good look inside it to see just what the engineers at Delco Moraine were thinking of when they came up with this design. For those of you who drive a pre 94 car with no ABS you probably are suffering with the same issues that my car has been crippled with. I am in the process of a 4 corner upgrade for the brakes, all corners will get near 12" rotors, the fronts will keep the dual piston caliper as it is a decent piece, the rears are getting a set of late model Ford Explorer/Flex/Taurus large 1.9" dia piston calipers that will be mounted to a custom support that I am designing to fit the rear knuckles. The front rotors are donated by Ford (late model Fusion front rotors), the rear rotors are courtesy of a 2005 Pontiac Montana 2wd drive vehicle (shallow hat). These custom items have been sitting on my workbench for some time now waiting for me to get started on this job. The nice thing about the Ford rear calipers is that the GM rear parking brake cables are a near match for the mechanical parking brake lever on the calipers. But for now I wanted to get at the damned booster, I have upgraded the old small booster for the booster that GM installed on all of the post 93 cars. It is a significantly larger booster in both diameter and depth. The old booster is 9" in dia whereas the newer version is 12". To get this into the engine bay was no small feat, it's not just a case of out with the old & in with the new, aside the air intake assembly coming out if one's car is fitted with the LQ1 engine the intake plenum has to come off, the exhaust crossover comes out, the drivers side shock tower has to be cleared of all the items attached to it, the fuel lines disconnected & swung out of the way & the master cylinder is removed on it's own. Before the larger booster can fit in the suction side a/c piping has to be changed, the old design will accommodate the smaller booster but not the larger piece. One has to order the 94+ suction pipe as it's shape is reconfigured to allow clearance along the bottom for the large booster. I did this, ordered from Rockauto, but there's more to it than that, seeing as I kept the a/c receiver dryer that is in the car I had to cut off the end of the pipe & swap the fittings & a trip to a friend's welding shop allowed me to tig the end of the pipe back on because the receiver dryer was altered for the 94 year & the fitting thread pitch changed. Once that was out of the way the pipe went back into the car, & I then could go about drawing a vacuum for the a/c system to test for leaks. Next on the menu was the reconfiguring of the heater core inlet side piping. I had to cut the pipe in several places to *extend* it to reshape the pipe to get around the new booster. After getting what I needed I brazed the assembly back together again. This involved the booster going o n/coming off multiple times to get the angles I was looking for for clearance sake. The pipe at the engine end actually is now approx 3/4" higher, I had to reconfig the small bracket & braze it back on at the corner & cut the upper section off to clear the cowl seal. With that all of the *heavy* construction is out of the way, painted what was needed to be painted & started reassembling things, the a/c line is in.... the booster can go in also, With the booster in place the pedal is reconnected to the pushrod under the dash. From here it was just a matter of putting everything back into where it lives, fill the coolant again, run the engine to bleed it, pull the wheels to bleed the brakes & test the new booster for what should be a pleasant surprise. This was not a cut&dry install, the booster cam-lock gave me fits, I had to in small amounts bend the tabs on the back of the booster multiple times to get them to align with the firewall cam-lock (I spent about 5 hrs adjusting-test fit-adjust - test fit etc before it freely went into place). But in the end it was all worth the effort, the difference in the pedal force needed to be applied is like night & day, the old booster would force you to push & push to get the calipers to respond, and then one could not get the calipers to *instant bite*. The new booster is a whole different story, the pedal effort is so light you could stop the car using your hand on the pedal. The car now comes to a near instant stop, the calipers react sooner & harder on the rotors, they never did this before. To say I'm pleased is an understatement.......,
  12. Not familiar with the Ciera instrument cluster, is there an oil pressure gauge or just an *idiot light*? Do you see anything to suggest that there is little or no oil pressure?
  13. Well, I was going to suggest ebay.......but you've found a source. As shown there are just two manuals for the 1995 set.
  14. At this point to adequately further diagnose the issue you really need the factory electrical service manual. One needs an accurate schematic of the car to know where everything goes. That particular fuse interacts with so many devices without a guide to show one the route that each conductor follows makes it difficult to diagnose. Indeed the SDM is the airbag sensor.
  15. Seeing as you haven't owned the vehicle very long has this issue just crept up or has it been there from the time you purchased the vehicle?
  16. Not familiar with the fuse numbering for the 1.5 cars.... does this link help you with the identification of the fuse in question?
  17. The valley area of the DOHC block is sealed off, it is not open to the engine internals, the intake manifold sits above it, not to it. The manifold is fastened to the heads, if you find oil in the recess of the valley that oil is from something else leaking (power steering pump reservoir, distribution cover gasket leaking etc. ) You''re letting your fears get the best of you, when the intake gaskets go coolant can leak into the valley area & as well the air/fuel mixture can be upset..
  18. Now that I have my camera back again.... here is the cluster schematic for the 91-93. As far as the wiring itself is concerned do not know if 94-96 conductor colours changed. *well.........this is a 1st.....the pic rotated for some reason & I can't correct it.*
  19. Without any indepth tools to do some diagnostics try this......when this situation occurs simply pull off any one of the three forward bank plug wires, stuff a screwdriver into the end and with another individual at the ignition key hold the screwdriver close to a ground & watch for ignition spark at the electrode. One can check one of three forward injectors with a noid lamp to watch for the circuit pulsing in the same test manner. If you've both spark & injector pulse then the issue is elsewhere. The fuel pressure should be in the neighborhood of 42psi ign on eng off & the pressure should hold relatively stable.
  20. The DOHC will pull approx 16" vacuum at idle. Vacuum ports on the intake are located center rear of upper plenum for the booster right rear of plenum for the MAP which supplies a source for the trans modulator & the FPR as well the HVAC controls. 2 ports behind the throttle body for the EVAP solenoid & the PCV, all of these access points make use of molded tubing with rubber ends at both ends. Check them all at both ends.....and have a close look at the tubing for splits/cracks. The EVAP solenoid is normally open, the PCM closes it at idle, if the solenoid is stuck open that will cause a problem at idle. Have a look at the EGR gaskets as well, a leak there is a vacuum leak. Just out of curiosity sake how did you go about replacing the timing belt? by the book with the cam cog pullers & rotating the engine multiple times for each cam before setting the cogs?
  21. You've got the manual for the electrical section? Section 8 is where the diagrams are.....the schematic for the the cluster is in there, should/could be 8A, starting at page 80
  22. With a 3.1 engine you'll have one of the smaller bars, my '91 DOHC GT is fitted with the big 36mm bar, the ends where the control arm bushings are placed is 24mm. Can you get your hands on a vernier caliper?
  23. Can you not plug the scantool into the cigarette lighter? Is the cigarette lighter dead? The EVAP solenoid is normally open, with engine running at idle the ECM closes the solenoid. One can check the vacuum on both sides, with the engine running one can test the vacuum to the solenoid from the intake port just by removing the rubber hose at the solenoid and you should get vacuum, you can also test with a vacuum pump with ignition on (engine off). One can test for vacuum back to the canister from the solenoid in the same manner. When you tested the vacuum right at the container did you have one of the two ports capped off while pulling vacuum on the other? If that's what you did & you cannot pull vacuum right AT the container I'd say the container has a split in the case somewhere. The rubber hoses do not last forever, trying to change them right at the tank can be a awkward task seeing as one can't easily get their hand in there to pull them from the tank much less push them back onto the ends of the pipes.
  24. The pulse width should not be *0* persay, one should still see a reading that will fluctuate with the throttle position. The o2 should be in the middle of the scale .. .45v. The evap does not come into play at engine idle (both closed & open loop), the PCM will open the solenoid to the evap system only when the throttle is off idle such as when the vehicle is moving, when the throttle is in the overrun position (off the throttle when moving) the PCM will close the evap solenoid. Check the vacuum line from the intake port to the evap solenoid for a possible leak on the engine side of the solenoid, if you've a leak THERE then that will affect idle performance. It may very well be that you also have a leak in the evap lines at the fuel tank, they will rot out there but you can't see them because they are hidden by the rear transverse spring. Are you getting any stink of fuel from the rear of the car when the engine is running or shortly after you shut off the engine?
  25. Try disconnecting the o2 sensor (forcing open loop), note what the difference in your injector pulse width is as compared to the reading you see with the o2 connected (closed loop). If you're running rich the pulse width will be a greater value than what it should be, with the o2 sensor disconnected the pulse width should return to stoic open loop value.
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