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55trucker

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Everything posted by 55trucker

  1. 55trucker

    91 vs 95 LQ1 Comparison

    That device is supposed to be the MAP sensor. Your harness is partially blocking the view of it. If you go looking for that in the aftermarket you're probably going to find everything points to the *regular* MAP sensor which looks like this......... One of the vacuum lines that is attached to it is the feed to the modulator on the trans housing. The other should be the feed to the fuel pressure regulator. That third line (which looks to be capped off) goes to a vacuum port on the intake next to the PCV. If that device is leaking or it is blocked then those three functions could/may be upset. The intake tube is definitely not working.
  2. 55trucker

    Junk Yard Thread, Never ending

    It's a GT, it will have AQ9's. don't we have a member in Edmonton?
  3. 55trucker

    brake caliper bolt spacing

    Unfortunately my vehicle is not readily available to me, it's *sleeping*, I take it that you don't have a car at your fingertips.
  4. 55trucker

    brake caliper bolt spacing

    What's a pre?.......that short for Pre-us?.......Pre-amble?........Pre-curser?......Pre-vention?
  5. 55trucker

    brake caliper bolt spacing

    Which generation? 1st? 2nd? 3rd?
  6. both sized rotors were available for the 95-96 years
  7. Yes I am.......no change in their castings at all to simply improve on the front braking ability GM just installed a slightly larger rotor. To do that they had to move the caliper outward to relocate it in the appropriate position for the larger rotor. But really, when this platform 1st arrived there were droves of cars coming back to the dealers with brake issues. My 1st two GP's were no different, the cars would not stop very well in panic situations. The brakes are/were too small (front & rear rotors & rear caliper pistons), the boosters were substandard, there was an 1/8" air gap between the booster & the master cylinder pushrod, the diagonal opposed brake lines at the master sound good in theory but in a practical sense BOTH front calipers need to be driven off the same primary piston not split between the one primary & the secondary as the lines were installed, all tied together make for horrendous brakes.
  8. Any one of the 1st gen W's 94-96 & also the 95 thru 99 Monte Carlo will have the strut you're in need of. I'm inclined to think the later cars would be easier to find than the older cars. I too am looking for the later struts for a brake upgrade to my 91, but it means a trip south of the border to where they still can be had, there are none at all up here.
  9. There's no real sense in going *backwards* on this, the larger rotors will brake better than the smaller ones, so you're looking for the later strut. Reading your last post, this didn't happen just recently? You've been driving the car this way for some time now?
  10. More information is needed, what year is your car? '92? is the replacement front strut taken from a 94 -96 vehicle? if so the mounting for the calipers are different, the later strut allows an 11" front rotor, the earlier cars (88-93) are fitted with 10.5" rotors. The caliper bracket & the calipers are the same, the only difference is where the later struts stamped welded bracket flange locates the caliper bracket to move it further away from the centerline of the rotor/spindle to accommodate the larger rotor dia. If the shop that did this tried to use the 10.5: rotor mounted to the hub where an 11" rotor should be the pads will not be in the proper location on the rotor contact surface. To correct this you will need to install a proper 11" rotor to that repaired side. This is also going to upset the braking force to the front wheels as well. The smaller 10.5" rotor will not deliver the same amount of braking torque that the 11" rotor will. The larger the diameter of the rotor the greater the braking torque will be. You will need to do the same mod to the other side to equalize the braking torque to both wheels. The shop that did this should've seen that something was visually incorrect when they re-installed the pads & could see that they were out of place.
  11. 55trucker

    3.6 LFX Oil Catch Can installation

    If one wants to stave off the carbon buildup on the backside of the the valves change your engine oil more often, if you're relying on that silly oil life monitor then do not. Regardless if using mineral based or synthetic keep the oil cleaner, that will reduce the buildup, it will not eliminate the problem but will help lessen it. or like me....don't purchase any vehicle that makes use of a GDI engine, until this issue has been eliminated entirely. I personally don't relish the idea of pulling my intake system every 40,000kms (not miles) just to clean valves.
  12. 55trucker

    5 speed swap

    The ports are damned large, try shining a light up both sides & see if one of the valves is off its seat. with that cyl at TDC try pouring some thin machine oil in thru the port as well & note if the oil stays in the port collecting on the backside of the valve face.
  13. 55trucker

    5 speed swap

    don't feel too bad......clean up the gasket, apply some muffler cement to either side of it when you install it back onto the engine, but do so when you're in a position to fire up the engine. This will cure the cement.
  14. 55trucker

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    The RPO code for that option is TR9 (lamp group) courtesy lighting, the GTP's got it my GT has it, the STE's also got it, it was an option on the SE models.
  15. 55trucker

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    It's under the drivers seat, next to the floorpan pinch weld.....
  16. 55trucker

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    For 96 the ABS system is the Delco VI system, instantly recognized when the hood is opened & one sees the rectangular control module attached to the port side of the master cylinder.
  17. 55trucker

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    If you have a propane torch on hand it may be needed, if they are seized more often than not they need to be heated up right at the bracket flange surface where the threads are. The *bolt* is a two-piece item, there is the main torx head bolt & the tapered portion is actually a sleeve that is supposed to be free of the bolt. Do not reverse the direction of fluid flow, when doing the pad installation back off the bleeder screws & push the caliper pistons back in forcing out the old fluid out the bleeder. This Especially important if the car has ABS brakes. Take a close look at the rubber boots at all four corners, purchase a set of new boots for good measure (the car IS 20 years old). Also closely check the flex hoses for their condition, same course of action as the boots. The parking brake plays an important part of keeping the rears adjusted properly, inspect the park system for problems. Me not knowing where the car has lived it's life get under the rear suspension & try to get a look up over the rear spring to see what condition the right rear brake line is in, if the car has seen salt that is where that brake line will rot, it is obscured from view by the spring.
  18. 55trucker

    Good '94-96 GP fog light upgrades?

    If each of those is 900 lumens that is approx. what the halogen low bulbs are.
  19. 55trucker

    Good '94-96 GP fog light upgrades?

    For 94-96 the coupe (with the later fog lamp design) made use of 889's. The earlier cars (like mine) use an H3 for the older fog lamp design. The 889's should be plug & play. The older fog lamp H3's are not, the H3 is a relatively short bulb, the older fog housing is a relatively short housing. The LED H3 will not fit into the housing without modification (the bulb mount at the bottom has to be custom shortened) just to get the bulb into the housing & clear the glass lens.
  20. 55trucker

    Good '94-96 GP fog light upgrades?

    The fog bulbs should be 889's, there are LED replacements for them out there. They would be approx 6000k, more filaments there are the brighter the bulb will be. I did an LED upgrade a few years ago to my fogs, those are the *much-more-difficult-to-do* H3's, the 889 LED's should be an easy into the lamp housing with no fuss.
  21. 55trucker

    Hvac controls not illuminating on 94 Lumina

    ..if one replaces the incandescent bulb with an led it sort of negates the load saving on the circuit if one has to install a resistor to limit the amps draw.
  22. 55trucker

    5 speed swap

    Did you pull up the distribution cover in the valley? Wouldn't hurt to see what sort of grunge is under it & also remove the plug from the one end and clean the internal passage out. There is a check ball in there that prevents oil from draining from the heads when the engine has been shut down. It should be kept clean to keep doing it's job.
  23. 55trucker

    5 speed swap

    My ECM sender is spot on but my Gauge sender allows the gauge to read on the low side, at 190 F (260 ohms) the gauge sender resistance reads as tho the temp is 150F (575 ohms) .
  24. 55trucker

    5 speed swap

    GM made used of a relatively stable scale for their temp sending units of that period. If you feel that either of the two sending units may be off here is a chart one can use for testing the units.
  25. 55trucker

    5 speed swap

    So give us some background on the car/powertrain that you picked up.......(we ARE discussing the recent purchase you made?) how many kilometers (CAN) use on that engine? if indeed the rings are seized that suggests to me that the vehicles history is not necessarily a good one. what sort of lack of maintenance has caused the rings seize to begin with? if you do decide to *overhaul* the engine ...how far are you willing to go? depending the on the kilometers use....if it is high then a proper block/bottom end rebuild is on the list of needing to be done, if the engine was neglected I personally wouldn't consider anything less than a complete tear down, where the block is concerned you do Not want to tighten up the top end and leave the bottom end untouched. One would turn the crank, consider resizing the rods, bore the cylinders, deck the block, basically a proper rebuild. Same approach goes for the heads. If the cyl walls are tapered tossing in a new set of rings doesn't buy you much, & doing so while not looking after the crank could see the bottom end go out on you.
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