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Everything posted by 55trucker

  1. The pulse width should not be *0* persay, one should still see a reading that will fluctuate with the throttle position. The o2 should be in the middle of the scale .. .45v. The evap does not come into play at engine idle (both closed & open loop), the PCM will open the solenoid to the evap system only when the throttle is off idle such as when the vehicle is moving, when the throttle is in the overrun position (off the throttle when moving) the PCM will close the evap solenoid. Check the vacuum line from the intake port to the evap solenoid for a possible leak on the engine side of the solenoid, if you've a leak THERE then that will affect idle performance. It may very well be that you also have a leak in the evap lines at the fuel tank, they will rot out there but you can't see them because they are hidden by the rear transverse spring. Are you getting any stink of fuel from the rear of the car when the engine is running or shortly after you shut off the engine?
  2. Try disconnecting the o2 sensor (forcing open loop), note what the difference in your injector pulse width is as compared to the reading you see with the o2 connected (closed loop). If you're running rich the pulse width will be a greater value than what it should be, with the o2 sensor disconnected the pulse width should return to stoic open loop value.
  3. Your scantool (a proper scanner?) should see the voltage constantly sweeping back & forth between .2 volts & .9 volts, can't remember if 1.5 displays the A/F ratio as an actual figure as OBD1 does or a percentage as OBDII does. The constant back & forth action takes place under all conditions. This is my OTC unit, (this is OBD1) the a/f is in the upper left corner, loop is closed, the o2 is displayed as .41v at the time the pic was taken, the lean/rich light will alternate between each other all the time.
  4. What would the ship fee be to keep it on the US side to a UPS store? Carlisle, Pa UPS store 950 Walnut Bottom Rd, Ste 15, Carlisle, PA 17015
  5. There are 3 different designs, which one are you looking for?
  6. well Congrats! that must be quite a relief, give the car a shakedown to clear any other issues..........
  7. Where in the 98 Lumina harness is the pin location to the PCM for that circuit? your schematic doesn't display it
  8. Oh yeah, SOP, the PCM needs to see the small current signal back from that pressure switch to keep the injector drivers & coils alive. If there's no oil pressure the switch doesn't close, the PCM won't let the engine run.
  9. I'm no expert when it comes to aftermarket tuning but your displayed schematics have a minor difference, the Lumina wiring harness is not quite the same when it comes to the signal for the oil pressure switch. If the PCM is not getting the signal then the PCM will shut down the engine.
  10. Depending on the geographical area the vehicle is coming from (as above stated) .......rust, if the car is in a salt belt rust will get into the rocker boxes, the rear bumper rebar, the rear lifting pads area at the trailing arm mount, the rear quarters (left side fuel filler reinforcement), the front suspension member locating points, rear brake lines are a weak point for rot. All of the pre 94 cars have the small brakes, those brakes are underpowered (all of the rotors are too small, the rear calipers are too small), because of the caliper slider design the rear brakes are prone to seizing due to lack of maintenance. A/C, if it's important to you 94 is the 1st year for 134a, a 93 would require an 134a upgrade, (when I did mine I replaced the r12 compressor with a 134a compressor due to the different compressor control valves used in each). Never did really like the LH0 engine, underpowered, for 93 the trans *should* be the 4T60-E, look for *no TV cable at the throttle body* to verify that. I'm sure there's more I've left out. If you want one of this year find a nice one.
  11. Assuming no other mechanical issues elsewhere.......(with engine off to do the test at each position, wheels on the ground) if the situation occurs regardless of the position of the wheels then it's possible that the preload on the sector shaft is off, if the issue only occurs when the steering is on center then it's quite possible that the sector shaft teeth have worn at that point.
  12. It's a general bleeder screw, you can find them on many GM vehicles where the rad filler spout is not the highest point of the cooling system. They are needed to bleed the air out of the system.
  13. I was just thumbing thru these pics you uploaded when I noticed this.........the top of that bleeder valve is missing, it appears as tho it has been sheared off, there should be a hex head on the top of the brass valve one can open to bleed out the air.
  14. Seeing as you've mentioned that the trans has been serviced my first thought is that the trans switch when returned to the trans casing is out of proper alignment.
  15. No piston slap issues with the DOHC's, the skirt area of the slugs is fuller bodied than the pushrod slugs, so no slap is encountered, the only other issue that was never TSB published is the timing chain tensioner, in early engines it was known to cause issues by partially failing allowing the timing chain to slap against the inside of the cover when the throttle is in the overrun position (one is off the throttle, the tension alters from the frontside to the backside).
  16. 30 years ago Sealed Power (Federal Mogul) & TRW were two of the largest names in engines parts supplied to the OEM, but not so today. Here is the high volume Sealed Power pump for the 3.1 LHO engine. The pickup tube dia is 3/4", I'm betting that your 2.8 is 5/8", you would need to purchase the larger dia inlet tube for this pump.
  17. Picking up a set of manifold gauges is relatively simple, but a vacuum pump is an absolute, whether it be an electric motor driven item or an air compressor driven vacuum pump, without the vacuum pump you're dead in the water.
  18. One more item to check off the list..., what's next?
  19. If you go back to this yard & see this car....please inquire as to what the yard will let that strut bar go for? thx
  20. It sounds as tho you've jammed the gear on the end of the lock cylinder. The gear has teeth that are on 1/2 the circumference. If you disconnect the rod that connects the cylinder to the ignition switch does the cylinder free up? If that's not it then you will more than likely need to remove the set/retaining screw that holds the cylinder into the *bowl* (column) to free the cylinder.
  21. As asked.... do you need this?.......these new are extremely rare & pricey or do you need this?...... the seat rots out more often than the knuckle assembly does, the seat is fastened to the knuckle.
  22. Thought I'd bring this everyone's attention... It's an all Pontiac annual car show for all years, there's no restriction on the age of the vehicle. It's a weekend long event, motels would be on the need list. My son is thinking of taking a drive down there with his Fiero seeing as there will a 35th anniversary dedication to those cars. I might be convinced to bring down the GP..... it's a 2,000km (not miles) round trip for us. for those of you in the general tri-state area this would not be too long a haul for you. It's Aug. 9th - 11th
  23. I personally don't use these *do it in a can* cleaners, in my opinion the only proper way to clean the injectors is to pull them all & send to a diesel shop and have them cleaned on an injector flow bench/cleaner. Mike, there must be a diesel shop somewhere near you who could do the job. It's not that expensive, the last time I had a set done it was no more than $80 for the 6.
  24. Before you install it give a coating with some undercoating/truck bed liner etc etc to protect it.
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