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Here's the link to the timing belt change I did on 11 January, 2020.

Also anotherFB parts group Rescued Rust parts & cars

That's it! And there's 2 on ebay! Sold! That was the thing, I had it towed in the morning and my mechanic texted me what it needed, but I still hadn't seen it. Years ago I had started replacing the broken belt on my coupe, so I had some of the parts but couldn't remember what I had or what it all looked like. Turns out I hadn't ordered the actuator but did find the one I removed. hopefully that'll hold it over till I get the new one. So psyched, thanks so much! I love my vert!

There is a group on FB called Oldsmobile Buy - Sell - Trade you may find or get leads on parts

That's it in a nutshell, accurate cam timing is dependent on the condition of the timing chain, the chain will wear/stretch over time, the longer the engine (for example...original parts) has been in use the more wear the chain will see. It's possible for an extremely worn chain (under just the right circumstances) to jump a tooth on the crank gear. The attached pic is an example of a well worn chain. Pull up the tension on one side & the opposite is extremely loose.

There's a video on youtube that is really a shortened version of mine, but the same procedure. It's the video I used to do the job the first time, along with a lot of reading on here. What that video lacked, IMO, is all the little details. How to remove the steering pump, how to get to top dead center, how to "transfer the marks" to the new belt, how the hydraulic tensioner and pulley work together (because you assemble it by feel...can't see back there). It also shows how I struggled to do some things, which is normal. You don't need to be an expert to do this job. You just need to pay attention to the details. It's a long video, but the people who really want to attempt this will eventually end up watching every minute of it. I'm honestly glad it helped you decide not to attempt it. I think the video I watched originally didn't give me enough detail to make that decision so I went for it. Had you only watched that video, you might've gotten in over your head and nobody on here would want that for you.

Yep. Spring-loaded, but oil-filled for lube. Not hydraulic.

Incase anyone searches and wants the answer to this.... Yes it possible to bolt a 2nd gen subframe to the 1st gen. However there is some Modification needed to the front mounting bolts and some spacers needed to lower the subframe height. Miko k did the swap into his old 96 cutlass. He detailed it in his thread in the members ride section.

This it?

The LQ1 belt tensioner is not hydraulic.

Wild Guess with no evidence: None of us know what the hell this is about. You have a picture of a radiator cap. I have no idea why that's important. If this is intended for a specific person--user name Jiggity--you should have done it via PM instead of a new thread.

I’ll respond but I don’t know what it’s In Reference to since you made a new thread

Why do you want to lower it? If you just want it to LOOK better and less "grandpa-y" you could swap the wheels out with something that looked sportier. Wider wheels and tires, and either a spacer or a different offset to push the wheels out a little, would make the car LOOK better and fill in some of that wheel well gap. For fun, read posts on here with people arguing about 5x115 vs 5x114.3 bolt spacing and hub-centric issues on these cars. You should be able to find a set of used wheels and tires that fit and really change the look of the car without spending too much money. If you want to lower it so it CORNERS better, then there are suspension upgrades that can be done, but I'm guessing on a $500 car that just replacing the stock struts and worn out bushings will firm up the ride. Tires are also super important to handling. If you have a lot of time you could get some junkyard thicker sway bars out of sportier w-body models and swap them over. But honestly, the best thing about your car is the VALUE. You bought it cheap, and it can be pretty cheap transportation for you. Put your next $500 towards maintenance and repairs to make sure it starts, runs, and stops safely. Then a little money on upgrades, but not much. If you throw $2000 at it, sure it will be somewhat nicer but it still won't be a $2500 car, and it won't be nicer than a different car you could have bought for $2500. Feel good that you saved a car from the crusher, and got yourself a comfortable, (hopefully) reliable car.