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As for impossible to find exhaust gaskets, could this Fel-Pro stuff be cut to fit? https://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/2499/10002/-1

Fortunately my crossover pipe still seems in good to ok shape for now but its something Ive looked into replacing for sure. Going by the supplement the crossover comes off without any specific instructions really aside from rotating the engine to get at the "rear" of the engine.

A repaired crossover will look like this..... I don't personally know where the turbo flange gasket is available from anymore. Where your *lack of boost* issue is concerned remove the actuator arm from the wastegate valve & try to move the valve lever. It should not be seized. Now test the pressure diaphragm inside the dashpot using a simple handheld vacuum pump to see if the diaphragm has not failed, you're looking for no loss in the reading on the vacuum gauge. The wastegate is normally *closed* due to a return spring inside the dashpot. You'll need to test the wastegate solenoid as well, the solenoid is also closed by default which causes the boost pressure from the turbo to open the wastegate to reduce boost pressure to the engine. Sort out your DTC's first, the turbo wastegate being open shouldn't upset the engine at idle as the wastegate is open at idle, as long as the engine is running the turbo is supplying various amounts of boost.

Thank you guys for chiming in. I do need those to diagnose better. The fuel injectors are coming and I did replace the alternator for the high voltage. I must have code 43 wrong 55 trucker. I came up with knock sensor error. I will look into it better. Nice to meet you Rich with the tgp. Not to look too far ahead but how did you go about fixing the crossover? I plan to remove it and take it to an exhaust shop and have them do their magic. Thinking I should buy a couple of these flex pipe things. Not sure the diameter of the pipe yet though.

since its such a pain in the ass to take the stupid oil pan off I put 2 quarts of Lucas and another 2 quarts of 10w40 in and that seemed to quiet it down a little. gonna baby It until I have the time to swap a jy motor in

this is a follow up to a previous thread where I burned up a rod bearing In my gp. I have decided to get a used motor as it is cheaper than a new crank, set of bearings and a rod. ON car-part.com it shows two options of the 3.1, one with AC mounting on block drilled and tapped, and one not. how do I know if my car is one or the other. My car has AC from factory don't know if that makes a difference.. Also its a 95 gp not a 94, I thought it was a 94 bc it said it on the inside of the door but owners manual says 95

Code 21 = TPS sensor circuit Code 43= ESC (electronic spark control) circuit Code 53 = system over voltage.........occurs when the ECM sees an ignition fuel reference of more than 17 volts.

Aww man you have a wing on yours, Im looking to come across one someday. I can post some stuff from the FSM and supplement book this evening. I`d recommend snagging both from ebay for these things.

That would be amazing!! Please keep me posted.

Thanks for getting back to me. I found a bad injector. It wouldn’t start. Had a na 3.1 back in the day that died while driving and ended up being a shorted injector. Also got the knock sensor out. Broke the clip though. Squeezed to hard I guess. When I get it back together I’ll post if it runs better. I think the exhaust leak is all crossover! If it at least runs better I will work on pulling that out next to have an exhaust shop fix it hopefully. If anyone still has a step by step on the remove and install of the crossover please post it if you can. All links are dead looking for this stuff these days. Also does anyone have an old chip they would sell for the ecm? Those links and people who did them are gone also. Sure would like to get some more hp if I get her running good.

Agreeing here with what everyone else is saying. Here in the States, it seems the Z34/5 speed cars are the most common. If I were you, and if you're really wanting a 5 speed car, I buy a 5 speed GTP, PLUS...a Z34/5 speed car for just parts. You could then scavenge what you needed from it to get the GTP reliable, (if it's not already), or have a back up parts car for when the time is needed. I post any rare cars that come up for sale here so please keep an eye out for that information. I also post junkyard cars that people can scavenge from in order to keep our cars alive and road worthy. I also do it for historical reference as well.

I know I have one NOS in my my Parts Stash, and theres another member wanting to buy some parts out of that box... I just gotta find it in my garage.. Kids... Dont hoard stuff.. When you want something, you will NEVER find it!

Hey Brad. I saw both of those GTPs on Facebook marketplace. I live in Kelowna so check often (looking for parts always). I’d pull the trigger on the blue GTP just because I love that colour on a GTP. I checked just now though and can’t find it so maybe it is sold. The white GTP is back up for 4500 I’ve never seen it around Kelowna so not sure if it’s like mine and just sits most of the time. It has the B4U lower valance intact so that’s a huge plus. You could probably get the seller to move on the price. GTPs of this era hardly ever come up in BC so you should pounce. You might not ever see another in that shape again around here. As for 5speeds. I’ve only ever come across 3 of them in my life. And 2 of those 3 transmissions are on my bench and took 15 years to score way back. I have all the parts for a swap and slowly working towards an engine rebuild and install. Forget the 5 speed it’s a true unicorn now, was 20 years ago. Even if you found a complete junk parts car all your efforts are best placed to just get an auto to restore over time and enjoy. I would look carefully at the trailing arm mounts for rust, if it’s solid there go for either car. If you get the white one painting the hood louvers white should be your first order of business. just heat the screws up before you take ‘em out.

Running rich could be all kinds of things. The car is dumping fuel in to balance out something wrong. A good shop can still pull data from the ecm. That’s really the only way if you’re not going to wrench it yourself. Could be a bad O2 sensor., vac line leak, FPR is shot, even a bad temp sensor can make the ecm run the car rich.

Hello! I have a 1995 olds cutlass convertible. The car rides smooth but after a harder acceleration (switching lanes on the highway) it can feel like it sputters. When coming to a stop at a light the revs are high and low (1.5 to below 1) sounding and feeling like it will cut off. I have the 3.4L. I switched out the IAC valve but that was a short fix, smells of gas in the garage if ran and getting horrible gas mileage. Looking for a great mechanic in San antonio if you know one! Anyone have ideas?

No, there is not.

I have a 1995 monte carlo z 34, is there a stock supercharger for this vehicle

Hey do u still have parts ?

why cant i find a canister purge valve for a 1990 regal 3800 anywhere.i can find it for a 1993 and up or 1988 and back.cant find it for 1989 1990 1991 or 1992 no where gm or aftermarket. thanks.can i use one for a 1993.

It's always in Carlisle , the last time I was there was 9 years ago.

Its in Carlisle Pennsylvania this year, about a month an a half away. I`d love to bring this but I dont trust it on a 18 hour trip there and back home just yet.

GM Nationals?

Thanks again, we`re going to have to get all these cars together at some point so you can check it out. Its been years since a meet up happened. Shes going to the show, May 17-19. I`m going to try to find some seat covers that fit good and might give that dash cover a shot on RA to hide the crack. The paint might not be in the best of shape with the orange peel and fading wheel arches and I`m not the best at talking with strangers but it should be a good time.

Cam is in, got engine bay cleaned up and wires wrapped a little better, exhaust painted aswell