All Activity

If it's the same as the 92, it's behind the rear passenger seat, under the trim panel.

I repaired the tacho by installing a trimmer potentiometer of 500kOhm in parallel to pin 4 and 10 and cutting the connection of pin 4 of the existing resistor. That way, the old resistor is out of the circuit, which is necessary if it is not yet fully desintegrated: the resistance would otherwise still creep up and make the rev counter go too high again in the future. I do not have any equipment for a bench test, so I glued the potentiometer on the back of the tacho circuit board so the screw faces a vent hole on the top of the instrument cluster (see picture). This allowed me to install the cluster in the car and do live fine tuning of the resistance using a small screwdriver. Using an Actron CP9690 Elite, I am able to read out the exact rpm from the ALDL connector of the car. The potentiometer I used is a CT-94 eW504 (1 euro in the local electronics shop), the 18 turns of adjustment were enough to do a fine adjustment. I took the cluster apart again after adjustment in order to measure: It ended up at 210.9kOhm. For reference: the old one was above 700kOhm, resulting in the tacho showing about 3.5 times the actual rpm. You can by the way perfectly measure the resistance on the board, this part of the circuit is 'isolated' so you are not measuring any other resistance in parallel of the circuit between pin 4 and 10. So the tacho is repaired, as long as my soldering will stand the test of time . Only issue remaining is the warning light of the water temp not briefly turning on during startup. It used to work a year ago (when I started this thread...). On the instrument cluster connector, C4 (the temperature input) effectively grounds to D8 when the key is turned to start. The gage works perfect, including going all the way up when the starter motor is running. Lamp and all circuits seem OK, apart from what seems a hair crack on a trace, but I measure a perfect connection. I should try to ground the sender to see if the lamp would at least work eventually with an overheated engine, but I am afraid to break the plastic connector of the sender cable. The few start-ups I found on youtube also don't show the the lamp flashing, although it should, so it is probably a common issue.

What is the location of this REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY CONTROL MODULE 10063538 OEM for a 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & is this even the correct part#? I've been told in the trunk, back seat right side & under the dash for this part.

I've seen worse on these cars. Usually the trailing arm it self gives way before the mount separates from the rest of the car. I've seen people driving these with broken TA mounts and arms. Just keep up with the fluid film that will slow the rust down. Don't try to paint it, the paint will just trap the rust and it will grow under the paint.

Yeah, I know. Your pics of that area didn't look that bad really. I was just ranting.

well I dont see why the whole thing would have to come out if the floor is solid. Looking thru the hole in the mount with a flashlight the upper floor looks to still have paint on it! Its just the unibody "box" or channel that is rusted out.

My '95 vet has had the same issue for a couple of years, now. The passenger side rear window doesn't work, either from the driver's door switch or the one just below the window. Life's been throwing enough else at me that I haven't had the energy to worry about it, but it's on the list (litany?) of things that need fixing on this car.

Thank You for reading. I hope to have it at a show one day.

Just so you know, I believe when these cars were assembled, GM sandwiched that mount and plate area between the floor pan and that box section. I almost wonder if the entire rear section of the interior would need to come out for a replacement or patch panel. In other words, I wonder if that structural area was dropped from the inside of the cars interior and then welded in.

Wow I cannot believe I missed this, my first car is the 1994 Cutlass I still have. Its sat on the backburner for a number of years while other cars got all the attention but I think I`ll get into it leading into the weekend. I`d love to see your car one day at a show or meet up.

Yes they are solid but the rocker attached to it is toast i might just drive it up on ramps because I have to align the wheel as well when making the ta mount. I think im gonna make some new rockers & dog leg area for it too while im under there. Is it easier to just weld and bolt a thick plate into the floor and put another plate on the top and then bolt a 2nd gen mount into that or is it easier to make all custom.

Are the pinch welds good on that section in front of the rear wheels? That's actually the place GM says to use as a support point.

Does anyone here have experience welding in a new section on these cars I dont have a lift and want to know if its possible on jackstands while laying under the car.

Thank You for reading. I'm glad you liked it. As of now I am still working on it. I am currently working on my Great Grandpa 1978 Chevy. That story is also on this forum. My Great Grandfathers Truck.

Sorry if you know this already but the part # from GM is 25536881. No NOS ones are available anymore. Now, there is this one being available and showing that number of 25536881 being interchangeable with it so maybe this is the aftermarket replacement. https://www.ebay.com/itm/354437432150?epid=4045192223&itmmeta=01HYGXZGPHA0FR1PERRTDQ5AM6&hash=item52861e0356:g:UrUAAOSw9lNlxrF2&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4J0fTXa61Yuya6JQSHsCCPxtoeHQnPz3ZI6WLg5rYoFMxuA2402vcBFI4seeitcqJHwtOBAlPT%2Bt0PlzIGMXoFbpfNXJdVXJsFF66anjozJYd%2BXp8m2JEg7ojzHxPxU%2FoSaIG%2FXUW95rLHFRoqbvdXsht8utd7Mxi25EB4LhTYXvCWJNlFheI0IUP4V7wxsh56JKBKtK2KXYIORCb1LeWKq70gIWKBW1TDs7Obvzw2J%2BYtgwsyKRSlmafalXMPgsCEBzbZOC7oBr%2BBCB%2FqjjM6cLgrQulmyOz5M8JoSYLlyr|tkp%3ABFBMpov-nfRj

Can you guys be more specific? What canister...for the one at the rear of the car I'm guessing?

Treasure Yard?

Great work! Process I know SUCKS but it's done now, and you got to replace a bunch of other parts that it needed and made those atleast easier to change!

which character in the vin identifies whether my car has the AC mounting on block Drilled and tapped?

I was in the neighborhood this morning checking on the wanted post I scribed out Saturday night, and I started wandering through the community, as I often do, when I stumbled upon “The Lost Cutlass.” Your story truly gave me all the feels and contrived such an assimilation for me in regards to memories of my first car. A ‘92 Nissan 240sx. A 5 speed in the cleanest shade of white, cute flippy headlights, and a bright blue dancing Dead Bear sticker that I put on the driver’s side tiny rear triangle window so it would always be right behind me, anywhere I went. I wish I realized back then what kind of car I was so fortunate to have been given. I was grateful, don’t get me wrong, but I was also young and I’ll just summarize by saying that car is now my standout “You don’t appreciate what you have until it’s gone” life-lesson. It took a minute to round up the emotions you made me lose, but I wanted to stop by and encourage you to keep your pen to paper. You have a fantastic talent for writing that readers appreciate. From beginning to end, the way you depict and are able to convey senses made me feel like I was playing you in the film version. I felt the mild defiance masked by harmless justification as you explained your convenient access to the DMV database. I mean, maybe part of it is the Missouri factor, but I’m telling you- I felt the weather and smelled the sap! This is an excellent story, and you have a phenomenal gift. Thank you so much for sharing!

Thanks, I'll update you if I can get mine to work properly. I assume a spare cluster is normally not necessary, since I think there are only 2 common issues with these clusters (I hope): soldering going bad and the laser trimmed resistor going slowly to infinity. The first can be solved by re-soldering, the latter will be an issue with all clusters of this age, the laser trimmed resistor was just a bad design. Bad soldering started causing issues on mine as well by the way, resulting in warning lights for oil pressure and temperature turning on when not supposed to.

I'm still learning things almost daily about these cars. With me going this in depth for my car restorations, it has forced me to learn how these cars are put together and the proper and correct ways of doing repairs, etc.

Yup, like what Schurkey is saying, go off the VIN. The door jamb tag is the build date and won't always coincide with the model year thru the VIN info.

Same here, having owned my ‘92 for 24 years now, there’s a lot I’ve learned!

Look at the VIN. That will identify the year, make, model, etc.