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It's always in Carlisle , the last time I was there was 9 years ago.

Its in Carlisle Pennsylvania this year, about a month an a half away. I`d love to bring this but I dont trust it on a 18 hour trip there and back home just yet.

GM Nationals?

Thanks again, we`re going to have to get all these cars together at some point so you can check it out. Its been years since a meet up happened. Shes going to the show, May 17-19. I`m going to try to find some seat covers that fit good and might give that dash cover a shot on RA to hide the crack. The paint might not be in the best of shape with the orange peel and fading wheel arches and I`m not the best at talking with strangers but it should be a good time.

Cam is in, got engine bay cleaned up and wires wrapped a little better, exhaust painted aswell

Welcome to the forum! First things first, get that crossover replaced, that will cause all kinds of running issues with it. Exhaust leaks wreck how these cars run. A point of advise, probably not relevant at the moment but I seem to remember decreasing the spark plug gap from whatever the factory recommends to help with some other running issues. There is only one person i'm aware of who repairs those at this point. Forum member GOT2BGM aka Matt Shantz he's not on the forum much these days I'm sure he's active on the various facebook w body groups but regardless i'll shoot him a message to drop by the forum.

Hello, just got this 90 tgp and have been tuning up. Sat for a long time. It’s running rich and seems to be leaking exhaust near the egr onto the intake manifold. Looks like it’s leaking at the flange closest to the turbo also. I haven’t noticed leaking at the crossover but I’m sure it is but not nearly as bad as the other places as I see the soot. Current codes 21,43,53. TPS new, alternator new. Haven’t done the knock sensor. It stumbles/ flutters and doesn’t seem to build boost. Curious when I dig into this where can I get parts? The egr tube. Hoping to clean the egr and reuse but the tube? Also if the crossover is shot what’s the best way to go about fixing it? Take it to an exhaust shop and have them cut out the bad and install flex or hard pipe? I think I have mostly done everything tune up wise for a normal 3.1 to run fine but would the turbo run like crap because of the exhaust leaks. Wouldn’t it at least idle ok? Replaced map, tps, iac, plugs, wires, coils, ignition module, air intake sensor. Temperature sensor I got after putting back together but unplugged it to see if it helped and no. It will blow black smoke out from under hood when it’s super rich. It will kind of clear out but loads up again. Before it was surging bad. That part seems better but what else would cause this? I guess my question is would the exhaust leak make it run this bad by itself or should I replace that knock sensor first and see if it makes a difference? I have owned a 3.1 na before but it never had this problem. It had other problems that got fixed but I don’t know about the turbo 3.1.

Doing that "in the chassis" would never happen in MY driveway. That engine would come OUT, so I didn't have to work on my back like a prostitute for the whole job. Flip the engine over on an engine stand, rather than flipping the worker over on the concrete. Likely get a better job done with the main seal, pan gaskets, etc. High mileage? Timing set, rings, head gaskets and valve job. MAYBE bore + pistons, crank grind, block decking...

Alright, I'll get ahold of him and see if we can get somewhere.

Here's a pic from my book. Mind you, it's from a coupe but we should all know that convertibles started life out as coupes. Number 15 in the pic.

This is going to be a good thread.

#7 looks a little closer but still might not be it. RH#10128048 LH#10128049 Another FSM pic

# 9 is the handle, that part will work on either a hardtop or convertible. I`m into mine now and will get into the manuals as well. Looking at my car I see no difference in the print on either side and I seem to recall an old thread where these numbers where exhaustively searched with no luck. Door Glass: Soft-Ray PPG Saftey Flow-Lite 27 4 AS-2 DOT 18 M504 1 2 4 PPG has flexible coatings and this part couldve been a custom run through an application process during the time the convertibles were being built. Not unlike how a company might send a few hundred parts to be chrome plated. This looks like it falls in line with the on going research into replacement rubber seals specific to the Cutlass Supreme convertibles.

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the SWC at the radio? 1993 cutlass

i dont see why it would matter which bearing is making noise if im taking the pan off im replacing all rod and main bearings and also polishing the crank,,, ive seen bearing rolls on 350 small blocks with louder knocks and higher mileage and never had an issue so this shouldnt be much different i just want to know if you can in this motor because some motors you cant push the bearing around to the other side of the crank

Pick up a stethoscope, get under the car & search for the loudest point under & alongside the oilpan for the knock volume. At idle there won't be a significant amount of damage outside of what already has happened. you should really find out what the engines oil pressure is, seeing as you say this IS a high mileage item, ALL of the bearing (both crank & cam) clearances are more than likely opened up, the pump may be a question mark, replacing just the con rod shells won't be the cure.

Idk which one it is and I dont really want to run the engine any longer to risk damaging the crank or the rod.. It noticed it knocking at 2000rpms after I went full throttle to avoid an accident on the interstate on the way home from work... Motor has high mileage so i bet it just didnt have enough oil pressure to keep the bearing lubricated at 5200ish rpms. Time to roll in some new bearings if the crank isnt damaged but I doubt it is because you can only hear the knock over 2k rpms

My 1st thought is ....what has caused a bearing started to knocking? They don't do so because they like to....... The most obvious answer would be ......poor oil pressure. which bearing is the one that has the knock? Front of the engine or rear.......

It appears you can raise the engine enough to clear the oil pan with the subframe in place on a 3100.

Really? You cant just lower it at an angle and wiggle it out?

The subframe is in the way. In order to remove the oil pan, the subframe will have to be removed.

It just started knocking, It was only running for 20 minutes or so once it started. I have swapped bearings into motors that had worse knock than this and it turned out just fine, I'm just wondering if it is possible with these cars to drop the oil pan completely or does the subframe need to be removed.

If it is knocking, you likely need to replace or rebuild the engine.

has anyone else changed out the bearings with the motor in the car successfully? I cant find any other threads on this site, and I don't have the time or money to replace the engine.

Take a peek at this picture, what is part #9? Almost would make you think it's this part that is attached to the glass - no?