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Since you're already disks, and using the 1st gen booster, I'd grab a 1st gen master cylinder and re-do the lines as needed. Only thing I'm not entirely sure has been ever discussed has been the bore size of the master. I see there is 7/8 and a 15/16 size bore. I'd ensure you're getting the biggest bore for the disks. Otherwise - not sure on tuning or flashing the BCM to de-activate the ABS so you don't have a light on at all times.

What I used for bushings is simple rubber vibration isolator pad material (the pad was approx 12" square), up here we have a *Princess Auto* hardware/automotive supply store, Harbor Freight *might* have something similar, using my table saw I cut the bushings to the same basic shape as the original molded bushing glued to the leaf & removed the material in the inner section to make the *pocket*. One has to do them in two pieces (upper & lower). One can *fine tune* the installed height of the new spring by adjusting the upper bushings thickness, but both bushings have to be no thicker than necessary to allow the spring to go into place & tighten up the lower mounting retainer to let it bottom against the stop. Seeing as the blank leaves are 3" wide (that's wider than the glas leaf in the centre section at the mounting points) I used my 5" angle grinder with a flap wheel to notch small recesses into the edges of the steel where the pads will go to allow the mounting bolts to slide up either side of the leaves up into the subframe member. All of this wasn't difficult, it just took time & patience. If you've never removed the rear leaf without the special spring compressor there is a way to get it out without to much fuss.

VERY much appreciated - and thank you. Do you have any pics from install or how you made the rubber bits (Im guessing both center rubber and end rubber had to be made/cut) Agian, thank you!

Flaring and making lines in no issue. I have benders and a hydraulic flaring tool which makes making lines a breeze. If I have enough line, I'd just bend and reattach, but I may make some unions otherwise. I know GM likes to make oddball thread and line sizes at the MC, so no surprise there.

Being an ABS VI you will have to either re-bend the existing lines at the current ABS module to fit into the 4 ports of the non ABS master or add extensions onto what's there. What's not known is if what is there right now will have the same 4 different line nut fittings that the non ABS master makes use of. Each line nut that goes into the appropriate master port has a different thread pitch & diameter so they could not be mixed up.

Disc all around.

Do you have drums still in the back?

As the title states, I'm looking for any/ all info in regards to the proper master cylinder needed for ABS deletion. I'm only wanting/ needing to do it in order to fit turbocharger piping in the engine bay, and not because of some naive safety circumvention. I am already running a smaller first gen brake booster found on the manual transmission cars if this matters. While searching RockAuto, there seems to be a lot of overlap between the 1st gen W-bodies through 1.5, with and without disc brakes, etc. So, I figured I'd ask the experts since I've seen brake systems discussed here in the past. Thanks!

What they liked the best: The brakes. What folks complain about the most on this site: The brakes. I've said it before, I'll say it again: The biggest problem with Gen 1 brakes is not the brakes per se, it's the brake booster.

This may not be helpful but check your grounds

This is the formula I used to get the basics for for I wanted....in hindsight it is a bit too stiff, on the highway the springrate is great, car does NOT float, corners reallly well, but where potholes are concerned its a bit harsh. My thinking now that it's been 2 years since I installed it the springrate could be dropped to perhaps 280lbs per inch. The shop owner who fabbed this up did it from the original *high arc* leaf. He used regular *shallow* arc leaves (blank leaves are all arced to a basic curve) to start with, cut them to the length as per the formula, then put each one thru the *hammer* to together match what the ride height the car is at when the glas leaf was in place with the cars weight on it. Of course I had him reduce the arc as the car sits approx 1.7" lower. That means you have to get under the car to measure the curve of the glas leaf when it is under the vehicle weight. Do so from the ends of the leaf to the centre section. I just used a long straight edge, laid it up under the spring ends & took a measurement in the centre. Since I was doing all the *bull work* I had to install, test the ride height, uninstall, go back a couple of times to have him *fine tune* the arc to get all where I wanted it. One has to fab up their own rubber bushings for this.......not hard to do, just takes time cutting them to fit. *Note* to do this the exhaust has to be out of the way.

I never used that feature in either of my first gens.

"Automatic shoulder belts"

Would you happen to have the "Specs" the shop used, that could be taken to another shop (local to me in this case)? Thank you!

When I first saw this I was wondering why this logo was placed on the door handle.

I saw that as well. From what I have found, the original air date of that episode was the week of October 7th, 1987. Highly likely that those are pre-production Cutlasses that were filmed. The Regal footage is likely a production model since they were the first to go on sale in October. That Regal digital dash footage has to be from a pre-production car though. Either that, or GM made a production change extremely early in the product run to change the tach from red/orange to green.

Never seen that olds logo on the b pillar like that, and on the SL too

Gotta love that quality 80s GM fit and finish! And that Regal is very oddly equipped. Bench seat, manual locks and windows, no rear reading lights.....but it has alloy wheels. Then there is this: That cluster must be from a pre-production vehicle, as the tach was never red like that on any of the production ones. My old 88 Regal was a November 87 build, and the tach was green like the rest of the cluster.

I had a similar problem on a 2010 GMC sierra. The drivers side door window would only operate when the door was open. I dug into the wiring and found a wire that was nearly broken. I would check wiring and grounds.

Here's me issue. Alternator died and the windows and top quit working along with all the guages. Replaced alternator, guages are back working but the windows now when you turn the key on they will work sometimes and sometimes not in conjunction with the top. Open the door when they are working all is fine till you close the door past the second detent then they quit working. Initially thought it was the circuit breaker and that is assuming the same breaker controls the windows and top. Now thinking the connector for the door to body but I wouldn't think the the wiring for the top would go through that connector, no sure. any body ever experience this?

I don't believe those have the manual release button. IIRC, there is a mechanical over-ride with the key. In the event of a failure, you turn the key to the "Off" position, which allows you to shift into neutral, then start the car. The 2nd gens respond in a similar manner, however I believe the console shift interlock on those is fully electric, hence the need for the emergency release button.

Would really like a good link for 94-96 Grand Prix.

that's likely what's causing your issues. that solenoid can fail, happened on my 03 GTP. Does it have a neutral release? If it does try pushing it down and see if it will come out of park. that solenoid has a little plastic disc on it that comes out, and pulls a rod that releases the interlock, when you push the emergency park release, its just manually releasing it. not a super bad part to replace if you end up having to, just not sure about finding one.

Now I can't even bring it out of park. I don't think it's related to the brake/turn signal switch, since I can get the brake lights to work if I pull the signal lever slightly back. But doing that doesn't help me release the shifter out of park. Seems like someone else mentioned a Shift Interlock Solenoid. Thoughts? That seems like a simpler part and something I can do quickly in comparison to the turn signal switch that I'm just living with so far.