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seems like the tranny is not downshifting at WOT


topless94style
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Today i changed the coolant temp sensor that broke awhile ago. I swapped in an older plenum that has a tapered throttle body and the ports are gasket matched. Now, when i drive the car, its really slow. Rpms increase very slowly at WOT. I checked the tranny fluid, it does need about 1/2 quart or pint or whatever the dipstick says.

 

When i go to WOT, its like it is in the highest gear, trying to go fast just not happening until i get above 4000rpms. Then it pulls hard, but shifts at 5500rpms at WOT?

 

When I manually shift it down to 2nd, it goes like normal all the way to redline and goes faster than aarons car like it should.

 

 

I hope that is clear enough, i need help solving this problem, my car has turned into a dog.

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did u double check everythign is pluged in?

 

 

Yup, would the vacum line from the manifold to the tranny have anything to do with it? It might have came out, but i cant see where it with the stock air box on. I tried to replace the vacum thing for the fpr and tranny line with the one that was on my stock tranny, but my alarm was in the way and i wanted to get this done. I got those connected, i got the coolant temp sensor connected, the tps and iac, the brake booster line, never disconnected the maf, so that should be fine.

 

 

EDIT: The tranny fluid wouldnt cause any of this would it? I checked that and it is at the bottom line of the checkered area.

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I topped off the tranny fluid and went for a final drive for the night. I have to study now after this. Anyway, i got down the road aways and went wot, and it was the same. I tried some different things and here is what happened.

 

 

Doing 30mph, i down shifted to 2nd, car downshifted, then i down shifted to 1st car downshifted. Whole time i wasnt pressing the gas, when i got into first, i went WOT, and i have to say, that was the first time i have been thrown back into my seat by my car.

 

Put the car back into drive, and went WOT. No down shift. I got onto a bigger road with a higher speed limit, and started from 1st. Took off like a bat outta hell all the way to redline, i shifted to second, kept up the speed but at 4500rpms at WOT it up shifted. WTF?

 

Tried it in Drive AGAIN at WOT and still very slow rpm climb.

 

Then, I downshifted from D to 1 never taking my foot off the gas, and going wot once in 1st, doing 20-30mph, and still very slow climb. Then I let off the gas and WOT again, she kicked down.

 

Tried that again, and it did the same thing.

 

Seems like when in D or 3 the car doesnt want to down shift at WOT.

 

Is any of this normal and if so am i going crazy worring about nothing?

 

Or is this one fucked up situation.

 

I have had an SES light since fall, and each time i pull it it comes up as

 

Coolant Temp sensor

Quad driver A

Quad drive B

 

I took out the ecm fuse to clear the codes, but it did not work. Still have an SES light, going to go to auto zone tomorrow see what they can pull then have them clear the codes for me.

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I'm not a car expert here and I don't claim to be in anyway...so with that stated..

 

Do you think that it could have anything to do with the different plenum that you put on there? I mean would that change the amount of airflow that the car is getting and make the ECM change the Air/Fuel mixture? I'm just wondering if that would have an affect on the way that the car is shifting due to the computer telling it so.

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I'm not a car expert here and I don't claim to be in anyway...so with that stated..

 

Do you think that it could have anything to do with the different plenum that you put on there? I mean would that change the amount of airflow that the car is getting and make the ECM change the Air/Fuel mixture? I'm just wondering if that would have an affect on the way that the car is shifting due to the computer telling it so.

 

 

I have thought about that, but then why would it make a difference if i manually shifted into 1st and going to WOT, then if i was in D and going WOT? Thats why I am not sure this is causing the problem. It could be, but i dont think the air flow has increased that much. The thing i thought maybe too was that the lower plenum is not gasket matched, and maybe that interferred with the air flow going into the engine some how? I do have a lower manifold gasket matched, I just did not want to deal with that today.

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Another thing might be the TCC. I don't think its really common on our cars- more so on the 3 speed j-bodies and such, cause my gf's sunfire had a problem and it would like not downshift and then stall and run like garbage.

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Changing the manifold, having non matching surfaces and things like that should not effect the computer/transmission this dramatically

 

I'll start off by saying that manually shifting your automatic transmission will force it into that gear and if not electronically controled at that time, it shouldn't shift from the manual gear you select (IE: going into second gear even tho your shift lever is still in the 1 possition when you hit redline)

 

so here's a couple ideas

 

either A) you unpluged your transmission and it's not getting any information on how to operate the shift solonoids, you can check this if you try getting on the highway and see if it even goes into overdrive (check rpm's at 75mph)

 

or B) the Vacuum not being connected to the transmission will most likely cause that problem (no gaurentee I can't remember) - also if you have a bad sensor and the car has gone into "limp mode" it will do that too, it will also smell like it's running pig rich, and heating the hell outta your catalytic converter (if you have one).

 

 

I'd pull codes again, I can't remember what quad driver's a and b run, but I'll check it out, and post more soon. what code #'s did you get exactly, I thought 26 was the only one you could get on that one QDM error... let me know

 

--Dave.

--Dave.

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excuse me here, i'm not familar with the 3.4, but why did you put on an older plentnum when you changed the coolant temp sensor?

 

 

 

Because the one i got was gasket matched ports and tapered throttle body. Its the same manifold.

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The lower intake also doesn't match the plenum gasket, and should be matched. Porting to match the head may have poor results due to the velocity change from having to match the head as well (opening it up).

 

you say you have the gasket matched plenum manifold.. this quote was taken off of http://www.60degreev6.com

 

 

this is a picture of the gasket on the Plenum without gasket matching for those of you who do not know.

DOHCplenumgasket.jpg

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I have port and polish heads on the way, and I do have the lower intake that is gasket matched to the plenum. I waited on installing it because i didnt feel up to doing the extra work yesturday.

 

 

I went to auto zone today, and they pulled my codes. The coolant temp and quad driver codes are gone, but i forget the number for the code, but a TPS low voltage code came up. If waht the guy said from auto zone is correct, then I need a new one. I havent checked the connection as i have been away from home all day. Tomorrow I will. I quit believing what alot of the guys at part stores say, other than the napa by my house, because they seem to all be retards as far as their car/parts knowledge.

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Hey, if we're gettin' together tomorrow we can hook my snap on scanner up to it, and see what codes are commin' out, and what the troubleshooter thinks of them it doesn't sound like it's going to be too hard to fix.

 

an other good thing, since you're a 94 you should have access to all the transmission codes and information, and the scanner I've got should be able to read all those, so perhaps we can diagnose that too (which I believe was the orignial plan)

 

--Dave.

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how much for the TPS?

 

 

$31 at napa + tax. They had two different kinds, the other was "higher end" for $55. Auto zone was $25 but the one i go to is by my work and i dont live close enough to want to drive out there to save $6.

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Are we talking about a 4T60-E or a 4T60? I have a 92 GP with the 4T60 and almost identical symptoms except they occur only when the engine/trans are hot. I first suspected the TV cable but then why would I only have the problems when hot? I unplugged the TCC solenoid plug and there was no change in operation except RPMs were higher than before. Now, since the TPS fixed the problem for Topless I'm thinking the same might be true for mine. On a 4T60 does the TPS have anything to do with how the tranny shifts? Thanks for the help!

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Thanks Dave. That's the information i was looking for. I knew that the 4T60-E was computer controlled and obviously know that the 4T60 has a TV cable. I just didn't know whether or not the TPS had anything to do with shifting along with the TV cable. There are more wires on the TCC plug than to just control that solenoid. Thanks again.

Tim

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