1trucavalier Posted August 26, 2002 Report Share Posted August 26, 2002 Okay 1st I replaced the thermo with stock 195, replaced the wp, replaced the cts (by TB), flushed the radiator, replaced with 50/50 green coolant, replaced the radiator cap, new belt tensioner and the temp still climbs when idling. When i start to drive for a distance or on the highway the temp stays 1 bar below half but if i sit it goes up immediately. Both fans work and cut on just past the half mark but they still are not enough it still gets hot. i was gonna do a manual fan switch but thats worthless because the engine gets hot (I guess the guage sender might be not working right) with both fans on. The only other thing I could possible think is the sensor connected to the radiator is bad. I called to get a price on the radiator which is NOT LEAKING and they said $1325. I was laughing my ass off!!!!!!! HELLLLLLLLLPPPPP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted August 26, 2002 Report Share Posted August 26, 2002 Did you remember to bleed (burp) the cooling system when you filled the new coolant? This is a somewhat time consuming task, but it needs to be done. Air pockets in the engine will cause hot spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1trucavalier Posted August 28, 2002 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2002 how do your burp it? I have it taken apart now replacing the heater core and if that doesn't work there is nothing left to replace but to burp it. ty 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted August 28, 2002 Report Share Posted August 28, 2002 Let it warm up to operating temperature and loosen the bleeders. There's one on top of the thermostat housing, and another close to the water pump (on a 90+... 88-89 don't have the one close to the water pump). When coolant streams smoothly out of the bleeders with NO bubbles or unevenness, then all the air is out of the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1trucavalier Posted August 28, 2002 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2002 duhhh! I feel stupid now kind of figured they were for bleeding but I guess its just early. I need coffeee1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEiZe Posted December 5, 2002 Report Share Posted December 5, 2002 Let it warm up to operating temperature and loosen the bleeders. There's one on top of the thermostat housing, and another close to the water pump (on a 90+... 88-89 don't have the one close to the water pump). When coolant streams smoothly out of the bleeders with NO bubbles or unevenness, then all the air is out of the system. I have a '96 Cutlass w/ 3.1, and I have two bleaders. One of them is a Standard-Head Screw and the other is a 6-Point small bolt. I have opened them both up once at the norm. operating temp. and it seems that I am getting more air in the system then i am letting out. Do both bleaders need to be opened to get the air out, or can i open one? P.S., All hoses and cooling components are tightly sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted December 5, 2002 Report Share Posted December 5, 2002 If the car is at normal operating them and you open them with the engine running and nothing comes out, then it's full of air. Coolant is supposed to stream out of them when there's no more air in the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEiZe Posted December 5, 2002 Report Share Posted December 5, 2002 should the stream be weak or strong ? I tryed it the other night and I had a trickle out of one but nothing coming out the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted December 5, 2002 Report Share Posted December 5, 2002 It won't be very strong, but it'll be more than a trickle. I know the one on the thermostat housing is very important to bleed. I'm not sure on the other ones. I usually always have a steady stream coming out of the other ones too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1trucavalier Posted December 6, 2002 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2002 the best way to do it is NOT to open it all the way up. You want to first let it get up to temp, then open the passenger side just slightly so it hisses and hisses until you see coolant then close. Do the same thing on the one by the intercooler pipe/ thermostat. I was over heating due to damaged radiator put a new on in and it would still get hot bleed off the air that in my case hissed for like 3 min and haven't had a problem since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted December 7, 2002 Report Share Posted December 7, 2002 My sister-in-law's 95 Grand Am GT did an overheat yesterday. She had to get to work right away but the low coolant light was on. The coolant tank was empty. I added coolant but the light never went out. She made it to work (15 miles) and it didn't overheat but the light stayed on. It's a 3100 with no radiator cap, just the plastic coolant tank cap. I told her it must be airbound but there was no time to bleed off. Where are the bleeders for this. The thermostat looks to be in a very inconvenient spot below other hoses just to the driverside of the engine. Is there one by the water pump? She got the car this last summer and has had this trouble a few times. She has a husband so I never thought much about it but apparently he could give a f*. Sure could use the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted December 7, 2002 Report Share Posted December 7, 2002 Oh yeah....She left home, got three miles and the temp gage started spiking, then the low coolant light came on. When I opened the hood I saw there was some leakage from the coolant tank cap (presurized). Then I added coolant (glycol) etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted December 7, 2002 Report Share Posted December 7, 2002 update: She pulled in with a warmed up motor(15 mile drive)....I bled the valve above the water pump and only got coolant. The low light is still on. Letting it cool a bit to see what the level is in the overflow tank. She said her husband had added some more this morning. I didn't see another bleeder valve on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlassdude96 Posted December 8, 2002 Report Share Posted December 8, 2002 The N-body version of the 3100 is a little different from what Ive seen. They dont have a bleed screw on the theromstat hosing just a line to the tank I belive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted December 8, 2002 Report Share Posted December 8, 2002 When the car cooled down a bit I checked the overflow tank. It was full. There was no air, only water when I opened the bleeder earlier. She said that the temp isn't spiking anymore. I told her it was best to replace the thermostat but that it still didn't explain the low coolant light staying on. We are getting 0* tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1trucavalier Posted December 9, 2002 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2002 there is a coolant low switch in your overflow at the bottom. the cts switch is like $6-11 and the overflow switch is about $10 I would replace them first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedZMonte Posted December 9, 2002 Report Share Posted December 9, 2002 When the car cooled down a bit I checked the overflow tank. It was full. There was no air, only water when I opened the bleeder earlier. She said that the temp isn't spiking anymore. I told her it was best to replace the thermostat but that it still didn't explain the low coolant light staying on. We are getting 0* tonight. if the light is coming on then its your coolent level sensor. RedZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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