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Found 430 results

  1. Swapping to olds intrigue struts in the rear of my 97 monte ls. I currently have a rear sway bar from a 98 monte z34. What i wanna know is what w, 88-2012, had the stiffest factory rear bar. I dont have access to a police impala. I do have access to; 92z34, 95 monte z34, regular impalas(3.4 and 3.8), 2001 monte ss, 2006 monte lt 3.9, intrigues (3.5 and 3.8), along with the usual w jy fodder. Thanks
  2. i'm gonna do one last suspension mod and that is put teh DOHC 34 mm bar in front....how do I do it? I can do the rear susp. in my sleep. The front....I know nothing about... I'm gonna do the engergy susp. poly bushings too
  3. FOR SALE: AWEB80 Rear strut tower bars for 1st gen w-bodies. COMPLETE BARS: $100 shipped w.out hardware, unpainted $108 shipped w. 1/2" hardware, unpainted $118 shipped w. 1/2" hardware, painted GLOSS BLACK BRACKETS ONLY: $45 shipped / pair, unpainted $52 shipped / pair, painted GLOSS BLACK Fits all 1st gen cars excluding Cutlass Convertibles due to the top needing room to fold down. All prices in USD. Payment is accepted via PayPal at mshantz83@hotmail.com Photo of the brackets, plasma cut, unpainted: To complete the install if you purchase just the brackets, you'll need a center bar (1x1 square tube, 37.5" long, with 1/2" holes drilled on 36" centers)
  4. So I have been trying to trace a front end clunk ever since I've had my 99 Regal and have yet to be successful at all. I realize that this is a common problem with a lot of 2nd gens so I'm starting a poll to see what the most common cause of clunking was. It seems like it does it whenever the car is cornering and it hits a bump or something. It's more noticeable when the car has more than just one person in it. It is driving me insane!!! So far I have replaced: -outer tie rod ends -all 4 struts, springs, and mounts -all 4 motor mounts -both front control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Did this twice, first with Moog, then with ACDelco parts thinking this was the culprit. -front sway bar with 34mm bar and polyurethane bushings. I have also greased the Intermediate Steering Shaft(ISS) multiple times because it seemed to help the first time. I cheaped out on the tie rods last time so now the next thing I'm gonna do is replace all 4 tie rods with Moog problem solvers and hopefully they'll last the rest of the life of the car. I'm contemplating replacing the subframe with an aluminum subframe and new subframe bushings. I'm also considering replacing the steering rack while I'm at it and switching out the ISS for a junkyard shaft. Any ideas? If you had this problem on your car and fixed it, please vote what the cause was.
  5. Anyone have the part number for the front bar? Thanks
  6. Ok, It's a long story I will try to fill in the details later, but right now I am trying to fix this. I have an aftermarket CV axle I installed last weekend. It's a Cardone It's a bit too long 3/4" longer than the OEM iirc. On the test drive it was clear the vibrations were from it being too long so I parked it. I was only doing this because the boot on my OEM axle split. I have not gotten the boot replaced on the OEM and want to swap it back in. The Aftermarket CV Axle will not come out. I have bent a pry bar. The slide hammer won't budge it. I tried taking the side cover off to see if I could get to the retaining clip and couldn't. WTF do I do?
  7. If you have any questions, concerns, suggestions or want to be added to the attendees list, please reply in the other thread found -->HERE<--Do NOT reply in this thread, as the sole purpose of this one is to provide the official info & attendees list. Date: Saturday, March 28th Time: 6 PM - ??? Location: Fox & Hound Sports Bar Yorkshire Shopping Center 4320 E New York St Aurora, IL 60504 https://www.foxandhound.com/restaurantinfo.aspx?location=fox---hound-aurora Description: Meet for local w-body.com members, but all are welcome to attend! This is our first time at this venue, as I decided to try something a little different to celebrate our 10 year anniversary. There will be plenty of space to park our cars together in the strip mall the restaurant is located in. Each person will be able to have an individual bill for their food and drinks (see link at bottom of "Location" for menu). The "party room" we will be in will have the following games available at the following prices: Free - Darts, Foosball, giant Connect 4 & giant Jenga $1/game - Air hockey $11/hr - Pool/billiards, shuffle board & ping pong Attendees: RareGMFan (w-body.com, gpf.net) GP40Chic (wcp.com) GTPWhite (wcp.com) + 2 guests BrianG (w-body.com, ClubGP) rich17 (w-body.com) + 2 guests George (w-body.com) pshojo (w-body.com) atj8 (gpf.net) + 1 guest NTRCOOL (w-body.com) vyper144 (w-body.com) Nicole (tcg.com) Stats (for future reference) Attendance throughout the day: 12 cars, 16 people User names in red strike through = Did not make it. User names in blue = Not on list prior to meet, but showed.
  8. Does anyone know if anyone besides Addco makes aftermarket sway bars? I like the idea of bigger stronger bars, I just don't like Addco's price!
  9. Will these fit my 96 Lumina? I've heard yes but I've also heard no. I'd at least like to use the rears. http://drcustomparts.com/HomePage.htm
  10. Just curious if anyone knows if a strut bar for a Grand Am will fit on my 96 Lumina.
  11. It's a straightforward job now that all the elements have been split. The front (as it sits on the car) of this bar will be covered with a single piece of sheet steel, as per the original. One of the photos attached shows a bit of the old panel, with factory-cut holes. I can't decide whether to add these holes to the replacement panel, to keep the car looking original, or to dispense with the holes. The former route would enable water to get in and around but make it possible for an annual refreshment of rustproofing treatment. The latter route of a closed panel would keep water out but not allow future access. I'd be grateful for comments and opinions on this dilemma, before I get going on it on Tuesday. Either way, it's going to be in a much better state than it is now . Cheers! Note, for anyone who might do this job: The mounting brackets with the captive bolts were spot welded to the original large piece of steel I am replacing, and the large panel then spot welded to the reinforcement bar. There are no direct welds between the mounting brackets and the profiled rear section of the reinforcement bar, and this made it easy to strip the whole thing down.
  12. Pulled a rear sway bar, bushings, and the sway bar to frame mounts (and bushings) from a junkyard car this afternoon. Only problem is, it appears to require these hexagonal threaded bolt inserts for the two top 10mm bolts, and something else on the bottom (I was too tired to look at it too carefully). I'm pretty sure my car has the hex holes, but nothing else. So in a nutshell, anyone know what I need to get? I was able to remove one insert from the car, but nothing more. Anyone know if I can just buy these new instead of trying to coax them off something that's old and rusty? Also, no problems running these + the auxiliary spring (the little "8" spring)?
  13. Changed the fuel pump, now the passenger side parking brake is permanently bound on. Presumably the tank is causing this. Anyone else had this problem when changing the fuel pump? I'm going to loosen the straps up again and take a pry bar and try to pry the tank forward a bit.
  14. somehow I managed to over tighten the top bolt on the driver side cross brace. I don't have air tools and my wratchets all sound like they are breaking when I try and torque it off. Any suggestions on removing the bolt? or should I just leave it? I can still move the bar when I remove the bottom bolts so its not exactly stuck in its position.
  15. First off, my contact info so anyone can join us at anytime and I can lead everyone to the group or the next stop Al Walker 4193764073 We will all be staying at the Red Roof Inn again, the reservations are set up and ready to be booked. Reservation is under W-body. Red Roof Inn 1570 South Reynolds rd Toledo, OH 43614 419-893-0292 Room rate is 64.99 per night, I tried getting it cheaper, but to no avail. Friday night plans are to get checked into the hotel and eat dinner at Jeds, Jeds is in the same parking lot so you can just walk over and join the member that have already arrived Saturday morning we will head over to Sidecut park and have lunch, we will grill up some burgers and hot dogs and have other snacks as well Sidecut Metropark 1025 West River rd Maumee, Oh 43537 Map: Saturday after the park, some people will want to go junkyarding, some will want to go to the bowling alley, some will want to play putt putt, all these options are available, I can post more on those later Saturday evening, Dinner at Shawns at 730 Shawns Irish Tavern 4400 Heatherdowns Blvd Toledo, OH 43614 Map: Saturday after the bar we will most likely come back to the hotel and hang out Sunday morning, breakfast at Bob Evans, I would like to reserve the table for 10am, this may be too early for some of our crew Bob Evans 2433 South Reynolds Rd Toledo, OH 43614 Map:
  16. Hey all. A couple weeks ago, I pulled out of my drivewayand heard a hard thud, then heard or felt nothing abnormal until later that night when I heard this metal-bouncing sound. Then part of my rear sway bar snapped off and hit the road. So what are my best options? It's a 98 Monte LS; I work at a parts store and we cannot order a rear sway bar, and GM can't get me one.
  17. I just bought an addco bar for the TGP. I had no idea addco used that jank-ass build-a-bracket method of mounting the thing. Looks like it'll flex like spaghetti or probably break. I know the addco on my old GTP was mounted the factory way when I bought it from Paul. I think he must have mounted with 95 Z34 sway bar bushings, which are also 22mm. Smart move. These bushings are discontinued from GM (what isn't?) and aren't available aftermarket (unsurprising being such a rare bar). Searching around, BXX once said in an old thread: He doesn't get on here anymore. This is a long shot, but would anyone know what Moog bushing he would've been talking about? Obviously gonna need either a part number or application to find it. If all else fails I might try and buy the 20mm bar bushings and either see if they'll jive squished down, or see if I can bore them out a little to function.
  18. I have a 95 Grand Prix Coupe SE and I can't get the drivers side door open. I replaced the handle because it got broken, it worked a couple times opening and closing the door. I then locked it and it hasn't opened since from the inside or outside. I took the drivers side seat out and got the door panel off with a little bit of breakage and I can't see anything wrong with the linkage. Everything looks like its still hooked up, door lock rod is actuating, door handle is moving the stop. It doesn't budge at all not even like its sort of actuating anything. Locked solid. I can't figure this out. Please if anyone has any suggestion help this lost guy out. I've even use a pry bar while pulling the handle and won't move at all.
  19. So i ordered some kyb gr2 struts from zzp and i am going to re -use my springs. The rear sags a little and currently has a half inch of clearance. I have read there is a slight stock rear sag but the front has about two inches. When i redo the struts will it all level out and if not how do lower the front to level it to the back? Can i just get a diff sway bar??
  20. Title says it all. I've spent hours searching and I don't know how to lower the rear end while keeping it as stiff or making it stiffer. I have an SE which has struts (no springs), a fiberglass monoleaf spring, and a kinda weak sway bar. Anyone know of any hidden gems or tips I could use to lower my GP? I would like to lower it 2" (I can do the front no problem).
  21. As i stated in my previous sway thread i am running 98 z34 sways front and rear(34mm and 20mm) what i wanna know is is there a stiffer front bar? Thanks
  22. dex_hamilton

    Removal/Installation Front SubFrame

    I've Got a base 92 Lumina 3.1, I need to replace the Front subframe due to damage of the sway bar mounts ripping out of place. Quistion is, can i get away with just unbolting trans/motor mounts, and the A-arms from subframe (with proper engine support from top) ? Or will the A arms not have enough clearance to drop the frame? If thats the case I'm thinking I could take the top 3? bolts off that hold the strut/spring from each strut towwer?
  23. Hello, I am having a suspension issue with my 2002 Chevy Impala with 139,000 miles. When I turn around in a circle it appears like I have a flat tire or the car is rolling up and down. This happens both on the left and right turns. (It does not have to be all the way to the right or left for it to happen). Not really hearing anything like clicking or any groaning. Could it be the front wheel bearings need replacing? I jacked the car up and held both front tires at 12 oclock and 6 oclock and pushed in and out and there was a little play probably only 1/8 inch on both sides when I did it. I checked the sway bar and it does not seem cracked. The boots on the CV joints appear ok. Any other ideas on what it could be? Thanks
  24. Hi guys heading to the yard for a monte bar and I cannot remember or find the size to the large bolts at the ends of the bar. Also going to pick up a few mounting tabs that usually rust off on cars up north and wanted to know if there are different sizes.
  25. I'm looking around for a front solid sway bar et better than stock front struts. I got a price on KYB Exel-G front struts for 128$ EACH 'Outch' Did anybody tried them?? Or should i go for Monroes?? And also,what would be the best front sway bar option? Does Addco make a front solid bar? Thanks for the help guys!
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