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2001goldGTP

90 Cutlass international, rear brake caliper leaking

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So the title pretty much says it, the fluid is coming from the brake piston and is all over the pad and the disc. I always seem to have leaky rear brakes regardless of the brand of re-manufactured or new (when they where available) parts. is there something better i am just missing? and can the tool that is used for re setting the ebrake be rented at a parts store? thanks

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Might be the way the brake line is installed onto the caliper itself (they apparently have sides, didn't know that until I did a disc conversion on a Grand Am). IIRC, the correct side to the caliper is the flatter side. Have you tried replacing the line or banjo bolt? It may also be the problem.

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Might be a small hole in the boot, I'd clean the caliper up real good and have someone pump on the pedal while you get a good look to see if you can pinpoint the location. Caliper rebuild kits are way cheaper than new ones and they are easy to take apart and rebuild.

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The early-design calipers don't need a "special tool" to deal with the park brake/piston retraction. Undo ONE nut per caliper, remove the washer and the park brake cable lever. Push the pistons in with a C-clamp. (I use a vice-grip C-clamp, but any would work.)

 

Do you USE the park brake? You need to, because that's what keeps the rear caliper pistons adjusted.

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I always use the parking brake. in all my cars. I ended up getting two rebuilt calipers and throwing them on the car. Used new pads same rotors, the rotors have less than 20K on them. After the install the car stopped fine but the pedal feels really soft and travels much further than before. I used a pressure bleeder and change the entire system's fluid. bled at all 4 corners. Are there braided stainless steel lines out there for these cars? or do i need to get a custom set made?

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If the pedal is "really soft" there's still air in there. Possibly trapped in the ABS plumbing, possibly trapped in the master cylinder. Lifting the rear of the vehicle and then "tickling" the brake pedal can release the trapped air in the master cylinder back into the reservoir via the compensating ports.

 

You did apply the park brake a few times after changing calipers...right?

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yeah, there is no air as the pedal is now better, its still not always the same feel. when the car is off the pedal will depress once but the second time is stiff, i really dont think air is in there. the car does not have abs. and the ebrake is down to like a pump and a half to set. no the usual 2 or 2.5 times

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The early-design calipers don't need a "special tool" to deal with the park brake/piston retraction. Undo ONE nut per caliper, remove the washer and the park brake cable lever. Push the pistons in with a C-clamp. (I use a vice-grip C-clamp, but any would work.)

 

Do you USE the park brake? You need to, because that's what keeps the rear caliper pistons adjusted.

 

Just wanted to add that the calipers that do require a tool, don't really require that particular tool. Find a combo wrench that will fit into the groves in the piston(IIRC a 15mm worked best) and then with a screwdriver, socket extension etc run that through the closed end and use as a lever to remove/install. With a bit of patience it works just fine.:thumbsup:

 

2001goldGTP: Damn I know that sucks, any idea where its leaking from the caliper?

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Bump, damn thing is leaking again, went back to diagnose a broken ebrake cable and the driver side caliper is leaking, caliper didnt last a year

Photos?

 

First Guess: Not a caliper problem. Perhaps a warped-rotor problem, or a failure-to-release-properly problem.

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its leaking out of the piston, I already have a acdelco one on the way, it will be here tonight. I have had the brakes stick on before from the ebrake cable being all messed up, The leak doesn't present bad when you watch it, I had my wife pump the brakes while i watched, i saw the fluid bubble out when she applied the brakes, the disc moves freely with out any pressure and the cable is broke anyway lol. Its beyond frustrating as this is an on going problem. I have had shops do the replacement, I have done the replacement, and for shits and giggles I have had my good friend do the replacement. Longest I have had a working set was about 2 years. I have never gone through a set of rear pads lol. The leak isnt as bad as last time, I guess I caught it sooner. I drive my 14 month kid around in this thing and I was so pissed I went down to the dealerships, they reminded me that I am california poor and could only afford the volt we bought back at the beginning of the year.

 

ebrake

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caliper, doesnt look bad

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tire, the bad

IMG_20150114_115535577_zpsekhm1lob.jpg

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No idea, the tire and the inside pad where soaked, i have put maybe 50 miles on it since the cable broke. This happened in march of last year, cable was fine then. The acdelco one i got was not exactly the same as the ones i got last time, maybe that will help

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How hard is it to rebuild these calipers?  Does the ebrake setup add complication to it compared to say a front caliper rebuild that wouldn't have it?

Nothing to it.  Yes, it's a bit more complex due to the park brake.  Still simple.

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Can't say I've ever had that problem, and I've been through a literal pile of those crap early calipers.

You aren't compressing them with a c clamp right?

Keep in mind that the original poster hasn't updated this thread in over a year.

 

Agreed.  I still say that it's a warped rotor or some other failure that creates the leakage.  It's not the caliper that's faulty.  The caliper leakage is a symptom of another problem.  "I" don't consider the early calipers to be "crap".  Mine work just fine, the only reason I ever replaced them was because I screwed-up and misdiagnosed a defective booster.  I believed all the folklore about the caliper being a trouble-spot.  The only thing wrong with them is when people don't use the park brake, and they go out-of-adjustment.

 

Compressing them with a C-clamp is perfectly acceptable IF YOU REMOVE THE PARK BRAKE LEVER first.  In fact, it's damned handy.

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The 88-93 calipers are shit, at least in the north with salt and corrosion.  I've been through countless ones to the point that I just stopped putting them on 1Gs and moving everything to 94+ brakes because they aren't as troublesome.  They just seem to stop working altogether. 

 

They seem to fare better down here. 

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"I" am in the North, with salt and corrosion. 

 

I hear a lot of stories about failed calipers, but my own two vehicles have been golden--as far as calipers.  Both brake boosters took a dump, though, and I've replaced eight brake hoses.  I had a terrible time with front brake rotor warpage, although that's moderated some.

 

I flush brake fluid when I install pads.  I use the park-brake now and then.  Calipers work great.

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