cutsup1996 Posted November 3, 2003 Report Share Posted November 3, 2003 my left rear rotor is warped all to hell. I hear a squeak everywhere i go, strange it dissappears when turning left, and can feel and hear the scrape when braking. i plan on fixing this this week but i wanted to ask all out there if yalls rear rotors phuck up a lot and since they are the thin single plate style should i just get a new one and not get it turned, all the rotors are factory, its a 96' cutty, i am not a hard braker either. also has anyone ever had a problem of any rear rotor being bent or of alignment which could also cause this problem, though I'm sure mine is warped cause the wheel and tire turns true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burning Rom Posted November 3, 2003 Report Share Posted November 3, 2003 Are your pads shot? That could be the noise you hear when braking. IMHO, it's never worth it to have rotors turned. When they're warped or have grooves in them, I just get new ones. They're not that much from an auto parts store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted November 3, 2003 Report Share Posted November 3, 2003 I think turning rotors once is okay, but more than that, is not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandprix104 Posted November 3, 2003 Report Share Posted November 3, 2003 turning rotors is perfectly fine, it doesnt hurt anything. Rotors are made (by the manufacturer) to be turend at least three times (unless theyre really f'd up). Many rotors are turned by the auto parts store before theyre put on the shelf. Also if you end up replacing them they cost about $30-50 apiece and you should ALWAYS replace them in pairs otherwise you risk wearing out your pads early and f'ing up the calipers (this is true). If you decide to have them turned checker auto will do it for $10 apiece. Typically you should turn your rotors every time you replace your brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox340 Posted November 3, 2003 Report Share Posted November 3, 2003 I think turning rotors once is okay, but more than that, is not. Actually, isn't by depth specifications and compared to 'safety' levels? And not how times they can be turned? - Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted November 3, 2003 Report Share Posted November 3, 2003 rotors and drums have whats called a "min think" stampped on them, this is for minimum thickness, or how far they can be turned down, i have no problems with turning rotors down once or twice if you don't take a shit load off, but you also have to remember if your taking metal away then there is less metal to dissipate heat thus easier warping. later Jaydkj; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted November 3, 2003 Report Share Posted November 3, 2003 I think turning rotors once is okay, but more than that, is not. Actually, isn't by depth specifications and compared to 'safety' levels? And not how times they can be turned? - Erik Yeah, its actually by specs. What I was trying to convey was that if turn them once when they are really bad, you probably dont want to turn them again, b/c they are close to specs. Even if they are by specs, I still dont like turning them more than once if possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted November 3, 2003 Report Share Posted November 3, 2003 I have cheap $18 ea. rotors on my rears and the carbon metalic pads from PCF OR CFP ??? forgot the name but mine are not having any trouble with warping even though I've had to nail them seriously hard a few times. I'm more worried about my PowerMaster III housing when braking hard. Buy new carbon metalic pads and rotors and be done with it is my REC. Asuming the pads and rotors DO look messed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox340 Posted November 3, 2003 Report Share Posted November 3, 2003 ...i have no problems with turning rotors down once or twice if you don't take a shit load off, but you also have to remember if your taking metal away then there is less metal to dissipate heat thus easier warping. Even if they are by specs, I still dont like turning them more than once if possible Good points made by both. Cutsup1996, you may just want to buy into new parts; that'll give you a fresh start. From there, you can tell if there's a serious problem with wear + heat disipation. - Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRANDFURY Posted November 4, 2003 Report Share Posted November 4, 2003 My back right brake clunks sometimes but when i put the brakes on it stops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runt Posted November 4, 2003 Report Share Posted November 4, 2003 Since the topic of rear rotors has come up, does pushing the E-Brake in everyone so often help free up the rear calipers? I know sometimes if I don't pump my e-brake that at low speeds I will kind of hear a squeal, but other times I won't. I say this because I have heard from a few different people that the only way to keep the rear calipers from seizing up on our cars is to use the E-Brake b/c that will help reset them? (or something along those lines) So...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brother pig Posted November 4, 2003 Report Share Posted November 4, 2003 I noticed when checking the runout on my new rear disk brakes, that I could never get it within specs, until I used a torque wrench on the lugs. (I know, you should always do that.....) But this makes sense, because the wheel is holding the rotor on the hub. Maybe this is what is causing the noise? Just a thought.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutsup1996 Posted November 4, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2003 yeah the rotor was fubar, i got two new rotors put on and the pads have a lifetime warranty so the mechanic replaced those for free too. made a big difference. no squeals now. barely touch the brake pedal and it works. they were the factory rotors so it was time. the fronts are still good for one more turn, still factory too. gonna get some cross-drilled ones when time for that, prolly won't go one more turn just replace them too when time comes. thanx guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCRagtopguy Posted November 4, 2003 Report Share Posted November 4, 2003 The only way the rear brakes self-adjust is when you use the e-brake. The LR on my wife's Euro Sedan locked up shortly after we bought it. I replaced the calipers all around and whenever I do the pads I clean and lube the sliders real good and haven't had a problem with them since. Just to add my 2 cents about the rear rotors, I never get them cut. They are relatively cheap, so I just replace them if needed. Haven"t warped one on the Olds or the Euro as long as I maintain the sliders and all. Still, it's one of the crappiest brake systems I've ever seen designed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannymik Posted November 4, 2003 Report Share Posted November 4, 2003 And a follow up on everything you all said is to but lifetime parts on all brake parts for out W-bodys! They are a headache on these cars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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