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Digi UB3 adapter


94 olds vert
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I had a hard time finding anything. All my links ended in dead pages.

 

http://www.w-body.com/topic/46113-digital-ub3-install-in-94-cs-with-analog-ub3/

 

K.

I went to the Internet wayback machine for this: 1988-1991 UB3 cluster pinouts.

GAUGES Cluster (UB3)

Terminals C1-C16

Terminal-Wire Color Function
C1 (PNK/BLK 39) Ignition power to Cluster. Battery voltage in RUN, BULB TEST or START. See schematic 8A-11.
C2 (LT BLU 14) To Left Turn Indicator. Flashing battery voltage with Left turn signal. 0 volts with signal off. See Schematic Section 8A-110.
C3 (DK BLU 15) To Right Turn Indicator. Flashing battery voltage with Right turn signal. 0 volts with signal off. See Schematic Section 8A-110.
C4 (TAN/WHT 33) To BRAKE Indicator. Indicator is grounded when Park Brake is on or Brake Fluid Level is low. Infinite ohms with Park Brake off and system OK. See Schematic Section 8A-41.
C5 (GRY/WHT 852) To ANTI-LOCK Brake Indicator. See Section 8A-44.
C6 (TAN/BLK 456) To Shift Indicator. ECM provides a ground when car is to be shifted. See Section 6E of the Service Manual.
C7 (LT GRN 11) Hi Beam Indicator. Battery voltage when Hi Beams are on. 0 volts with Hi Beams off.
See Schematic Section 8A-100.

C8 NOT USED
C9 NOT USED
C10 (YEL 726) Display Dim Enable. Battery voltage when Park Lights are on. 0 volts with Park Lights off. See Schematic Section 8A-114.
C11 (GRY 8) To Cluster Illumination bulbs. Variable voltage with Head or Park lights on and Dimmer Control adjusted.
C12 NOT USED
C13 (ORN 461) Bi-directional Serial Data Link between Cluster & ECM. <~~I think this is the wire that needs to be added, from the ALDL orange wire, someone should correct me here though if I am wrong.
C14 (BLK/WHT 151)
 Ground to G101. See 8A-14.
C15 NOT USED C16 (PNK/BLK 750) Ignition power to Cluster. Battery voltage in RUN. See 8A-11.

Terminals D1-D16

Terminal-Wire Color Function
D1 (BLK 150) Ground. See Section 8A-14.
D2 (YEL 237) Safety Belt input from Component Center. Battery voltage for 5 to 10 seconds after Ignition is put in RUN.
D3 (YEL/BLK 68) LOW COOLANT Indicator input. See Test L, M
D4 (BRN 25) CHARGE Indicator input. See Schematic Section 8A-30. 
D5 (BRN/WHT 419) SERVICE ENG. SOON input from ECM. See Section 6E of Service Manual.
D6 NOT USED
D7 NOT USED
D8 NOT USED
D9 (LT BLU 811) English/metric switch output. See test N.
D10 (BRN/WHT 230) VF Dimmer input. Variable voltage with lights on and dimmer adjusted. See 8A-114.
D11 (TAN 31) Oil Pressure input. Sender resistance varies from 15 ohms, low pressure, to 91 ohms, high pressure. Tests E, F, G.
D12 (DK GRN/WHT 35) Coolant Temperature input. Send resistance varies from 60 ohms, hot, to 1500 ohms, cold. Tests H, I, J.
D13 (PPL 30) Fuel Level input. Sensor resistance varies from 18 ohms, empty, to 88 ohms, full. Tests B, C, D.
D14 NOT USED
D15 (DK GRN 389) Vehicle Speed input from ECM. See Schematic Section 8A-33.
D16 (ORN 640) Battery power (memory) to Cluster. Battery voltage at all times. See Section 8A-11.

Let me go get my 94 FSM and I'll have you the 1994 pinouts.

 

Edited by 94 olds vert
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Awesome, thats exatcly what I need for that side.

 

found the answer so deleted question.

Edited by rich_e777
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Got the donor connector repinned no problems, just need that extra orange wire for memory. One of the mounting tabs on the cluster had been broken in shipment so its drying otherwise I'd put it in tonight. So long as you have the female piece broken of an analog cluster and the analog pigtail you wont need a UB3 pigtail. Now I can finally hook it up to a car battery and see it lit up.

 

K24U8nV.jpg

Edited by rich_e777
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  • 1 year later...

 

 

In the future when people search for stuff they will be able to find all this great info in one easy spot.

 

As a man from the future I do appreciate this wealth of information

 

 

 

 

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  • 4 months later...

OPZYYTS.jpg

In my spare time at work I came up with this thing. I was trying to have all the wires match the colors from the manuals but towards the end I ran out and used what I had. This connector is one I broke off a regular analog cluster, bent the pins(SLOWLY AND VERY CAREFULLY!!!!) to allow the metal clasp to grab them, then I flowed solder down in between so they`re all secure. They make some nice liquid e-tape stuff that I`ll use to insulate each connection, one at a time then I`ll trim all the wires down to the same length. 

Then I have a re-pinned male connector config-ed for the UB3, just a matter of soldering the wires together. After that just sticking in the oil pressure sensor and running Tach and a "Hot" wire then I think it should be good to go. 

KojCasC.jpg

I keep my spare solder iron tips in the bottle.

Edited by rich_e777
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