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94 olds vert

Digi UB3 adapter

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So I'm in the middle of making a UB3 adapter for a digi cluster. And I want to make sure Im doing this right.

 

For example I'd take the C2 on the digi cluster end and connect it to the D4 on the connector that is in the car.

 

I have a digi UB3 connector and the end of a 94 analog where it plugs into the cluster. I solder all the wires from the factory 94 female connector to the male end. Then I have to take the digi wires and connect them to the other side.

 

Any objections to the way I'm doing it? I think it will be good enough. I already have wires spliced into my cluster wires for the DIS.

 

EDIT: Reference. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/48646-Digital-UB3-install-in-94-CS-with-analog-UB3

 

That is what I'm going by.

Edited by 94 olds vert

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I just repinned mine, but that seems a little easier to do than being into the dash :lol: If it physically works, doesn't matter how it looks, it'll be hidden anyways.

 

Exactly, I'm not too concerned about looks. It's purely for functionality. The digi UB3 look is what I'm after.

 

I'm a little confused about D16 on the Digi end and where it goes. Looks like that is always hot?

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59b554c2.jpg

 

It looks like I cannot piggy back off the DIS for the tach. Everything seems to be working fine. I'll have to find a wire that's always hot for memory. Possible radio wire.

 

http://s484.photobucket.com/albums/rr204/local456/?action=view&current=96194108.mp4

 

I'm just glad this didn't catch the car on fire. The oil pressure doesn't work. I'll have to get a new sending unit for that.

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Keep note of everything you need to do to get this to work, this is on my short list of things to do to my black vert in the spring.

 

Nice work so far.

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I will, and thanks.

 

The tach is something I can easily take care of. I just need a new oil sending unit. I drove it around the block twice and the mileage doesn't save when I turn the car off and start it back up. Probably because of D16. (Memory)

 

The dimmer doesn't work. Doubt I'll hook it up. I also didn't hook up the check gauges light to the HUD. I might do that, but doesn't concern me if it doesn't work.

 

This UB3 came out an international with a 5 speed and HUD and I noticed it had a shift light. It doesn't have the digital read out for the MPH because it came form a HUD car.

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make anymore progress on this?

 

Yeah it's done. I got everything sorted out. Blinkers now blink, and the memory works I used the cig lighter orng. wire for hot all the time. I hooked up the tach.

 

It doesn't show a redline because of my RobertIsaar tune. He bumped my redline to 7k rpm. I still need an oil pressure switch.

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so what all issues did you encounter?

 

Well, what part? I had several issues with different things along the way. I had to go back and cover all of the pins of the reverse side of the female connector. To prevent them from getting contact. If I turned my left blinker on the right one would turn on too, because those two pins were touching or arching.

 

You only have to run two wires one to the ALDL and one to a hot all the time. I already had one spliced open from the DIS install so I just tapped into that.

 

I never bothered to hook up the dimmer or check gauge light. Both would be easy to do so.

 

I thought I could piggy back off the DIS for the tach info, but I was wrong about that. Not sure if you hooked up your DIS yet or not.

 

I grabbed a 90 CS UB3 connector from the junkyard, and an analog connector from a 94 CS 'vert, and I grabbed the female end that is in the 94 cluster. I just ripped it out from the cluster.

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I haven't installed either the DIS or UB3 yet, just trying to get an idea of what wires aren't plug and play if you will. I'm going to make a UB3 adapter the same way you made yours, but incorporate the DIS feed wiring into it as well, make a nice clean plug and play install.

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That would be the best way to do it You only have to run 3 wires from the cluster to the DIS. That's how mine ended up after got the UB3 installed. I just left some lead wires coming of of my adapter and ran those to DIS.

 

Makes everything 100% reversible.

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Hey there,

 

Just a note, you can always attach the tach wire to the orange Data I/O wire on the ALDL connector. It's translated as the tach signal in the cluster.

 

Here is something I wrote awhie ago on upgrading to the UB3 Cluster:

 

Here is a simple description of the common dash panel wires and their function on your GM

Vehicle. There is also here notes on upgrading your vehicle's dash panel. Please take

note that if you do upgrade, it is recommended that you splice in the wire harness of the

new or full dash panel instead of replacing the old harness completely.

 

Special Note and Service Bullitin: If you own an Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme from 1988 to

1993 equipped with a standard 3 point/guage (Fuel, Speedometer, and Odometer only)

florescent digital display dash panel, it is recommended that you upgrade to the full all

guage (Digital Florescent or Analog) due to several issues with the 3 guage panels

including the main controller chip also known as a "Smart Driver" failing over time.

 

 

Pink w/ Blk (C1-Fuse#11) = IGN

Orange(D16) = Memory/Battery Constant

Grey(C11) & Yellow(C10) & Brn w/ Wht(D10) = Dimmer/Light Switch

All Black & Black w/ White = Ground

LT Blu = lft signal

DK Blu = right signal

Tan w/ wht = Brake Warning

Grey w/ wht = NC(No Connection)

Tan w/ Blk (C6)= ECM/Shift

Lt. Green = Headlights/High beam indicator

Orange (C13) = ECM/Data IO/Tachometer (Note: If you had a basic dash

without a tach, this wire can be linked to the orange wire on the

diagnostic connector under the dash to enable the tachometer on a

dash cluster with one. Also, if you originally had a basic dash

without a tach before, you will not have this orange wire in the

wire harness the car came with.)

 

Pink w/ Blk (C16-Fuse#9) = IGN

Yellow(D2) = Chime Module

Yellow w/ Blk(D3) = ECM/Low Coolant Warning

Brown(D4) = Alternator/Generator/Voltmeter

Brown w/ White(D5) = ECM/Service Engine Soon/Check Engine

Tan(D11) = Oil (Note: If you originally had a basic dash, but now

have a dash with an oil guage, the oil pressure sending unit will

have to be changed as well. If you do not change this, the oil

pressure will come up as high all the time.)

 

Dk Green w/ White(D12) = Temp (Note: If you originally had a basic

dash, but now have one with a temperature guage, the temp sensor

will have to be changed as well. If you do not change this, you will not

have any showing of temperature.)

 

Purple(D13) = Fuel

Dark Green(D15) = ECM/Speedometer

 

Also, your speedometer should have a read out regardless of wheather or not it came from a car with a HUD due to the fact that the HUD could always be shut off and was an add on option that piggybacked the info sent to your dash anyway. If your speedo is non-responsive on the dash, make sure that the green wire is connected properly, and memory may also be required for normal operation. Also, connection to the DIS may not be required for normal operation of the cluster. The DIS was also a piggybacked extension of both the dash cluster and ECM.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Starflare5.

Edited by Starflare5
Additional info

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I never got my dimmer to work properly, however, there is a wire in the headlight switch that I tapped into that gave me 100% light when off, and about 40% light when on. Worked great for me, I actually liked it better than having manual dimming

 

And about the orange ALDL wire, that's what I did, worked like a charm

 

Also, HOOK UP YOUR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. I know you said your gauges light, but either way, make sure they're both hooked up. I mispinned mine by 1 wire the first time and didn't realize I didn't have a functioning check engine light, which would have been helpful in not blowing up my engine because of a massive radiator hole.

Edited by Psych0matt

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Starflare, I have a functioning speedometer I just don't have the two big numbers under the arch. I just have the bar that rises up on the arch.HUD cars did not get those big numbers.

 

Matt, my SES light does function, but the check gauges on the HUD is what I didn't hook up. I left a wire on my adapter to run to the HUD, but I didn't want to splice into my HUD connector. I check my dash frequently enough that I will notice if a SES light is on.

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Starflare, I have a functioning speedometer I just don't have the two big numbers under the arch. I just have the bar that rises up on the arch.HUD cars did not get those big numbers.

 

Matt, my SES light does function, but the check gauges on the HUD is what I didn't hook up. I left a wire on my adapter to run to the HUD, but I didn't want to splice into my HUD connector. I check my dash frequently enough that I will notice if a SES light is on.

 

Then you might want to check for a missing jumper or dip switch setting depending on the manufacturer date of the cluster. The arc only goes up to 80. The numbers continue on 'til at least 199, but, those cars only get up to 115 or 120 depending on the governor.

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Then you might want to check for a missing jumper or dip switch setting depending on the manufacturer date of the cluster. The arc only goes up to 80. The numbers continue on 'til at least 199, but, those cars only get up to 115 or 120 depending on the governor.

 

The cluster simply doesn't have it, but I could ad one if I really wanted too. IIRC my car is limited at 999 miles per hour. So hitting a governor is not a problem. I'd like to see how fast it could really go. lol

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59b554c2.jpg

 

It looks like I cannot piggy back off the DIS for the tach. Everything seems to be working fine. I'll have to find a wire that's always hot for memory. Possible radio wire.

 

http://s484.photobucket.com/albums/rr204/local456/?action=view&current=96194108.mp4

 

I'm just glad this didn't catch the car on fire. The oil pressure doesn't work. I'll have to get a new sending unit for that.

 

You wouldn't be willing to make another adapter would you for some cash? I just don't have the time to do it myself. Let me know please and thank you.

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