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rich_e777

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rich_e777 last won the day on June 24

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About rich_e777

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    Interweb SortAScrub
  • Birthday 11/11/1986

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    Nashville,TN

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  1. Its not just bullets that will be a threat but anyways... If this becomes an actual thing you may bring offerings of pizza rolls, beer or both to Tikaboo Peak. Theres a group that might be there to watch I thought about joining. Read up on the Mojave climate, people don't live out there for a reason.
  2. The people planning on storming the Groom Lake facility wont get to see the hangars with their own eyes. What are these people actually hoping to see? the new B-21 Raider bomber, SkunkWorks and PhantomWorks stealth transport/aerial refueling demonstrators, aircraft prototypes with different wing and fuselage shapes and in fun colors and some foreign aircraft for study. Its an aviation research and testing facility, not home to E.T. They might be found elsewhere in the world. "They cant stop us all" OMG yes they can. Especially since they can and will use lethal force, by law, once you cross a certain line.
  3. There are two different digital clusters they used and one really isnt worth it to install. Theres an ancient thread around here that discusses how to make an adapter harness with all the pinout info and I sort of made a diagram for my particular 1994 3100 CS to use that I can dig out and post a pic of that might help you out. If you didnt clip the harness out of the car with a legnth of wire you better get back there and get it. You will also need to break open an analog cluster to get the plastic connector as well if you want to build a harness without repinning your cars wiring harness. Heres Nate`s thread and its probably the best source of info for that swap.
  4. Just came across this thread again and was hoping that member was still around.
  5. 5347 is what I can discern from the black inner sway bar bushing and 5338 is what is on the red outer bushing. You may have to dig into those part numbers a bit to see what cross references as these were installed 7+ years ago and the ES bushing numbers changed since then to one that uses a decimal.
  6. What year and engine you got? IIRC they only had two options 28mm and 34mm, the LQ1 DOHC got the bigger bar. Not sure what size the smaller bar takes but I`ll check one of mine tomorrow. The poly ES bushing have the size pressed into the side of them.
  7. AZ brand AeroBlades snap right on the old peg locking system the CSs have just fine and if you keep the wipers clean with the rest of the windshield they will last at least a year. Dont get brave and try and put a larger blade on the other side. If they ever get tangled up its going to bend things that can only be found in the junkyard, and the wiper transmission system up under that cowling is most likely exclusive to just the W body Cutlass Supreme. But at least the 4 door model will fit the 2 door model! RainX blades either seem cheap Walmart crap or way overpriced AutoZone crap in either case they are a gimmick, just get the RainX glass cleaner in the yellow spray bottle and do the whole car after a good wash.
  8. Its exactly like you`d think to do it, no need to remove the bar. Clean the old bracket and hardware really good to get all the crud off the bolt threads and grease the bushing up before you bolt the bracket back down. I do believe unbolting the outer bushings first will make it easier.
  9. I`m all for planning something out but car stuff had to be put on hold to deal with things around the house and my work truck needs stuff as well.
  10. Ill make the budget allow for one, it needs to be done right. My thought was less weight/strain the pump had to contend with is why I even brought it up. I got front and rear tack strips and headliner on the to get list, what else should be replaced/mod-improved tools to acquire? Its hard to find the old thread but IIRC Galaxie didnt you replace some parts with eye-bolts or something else once upon a time? I remember reading there was some brittle parts that someone replaced with other hardware on these convertibles.
  11. Dont buy anything until you`ve talked to a shop or is what I meant, they should provide the material and might can get it cheaper
  12. It never hurts to have someone look at it, especially if they see you actually care enough about the car to try and figure it out. Call first and talk with them a little to see if they`re cool about just looking at it without the attitude. A few things to look at would be the subframe mounts, Ive got the two in the back I need to replace and since a remanned R&P isnt unreasonable I`m going to replace that too. IIRC the R&P has a rubber mount of bushing that might could fail causing steering issues. Not positive on what a bad inner tie rod feels like but I was told they need to be replaced like the outer ends do just not as frequently. I also had one of the plastic pins holding the wheel well cowling in place and it would rub up against the tire on occasions that caused an array of whirring noises. Sounded very similar to a bad wheel hub I replaced on the Vert but on my 94 coupe.
  13. Patch it with filler and vinyl wrap it? If its just on the trunk lid it might not be all that much to have a shop work on it.
  14. Ok got the top out and unpacked and looks like it doesnt have the tack strips or the headliner but does have the the 2 sets of cables. IIRC the shops might have some of that in stock so i might ask before ordering. On one site I read the headliner might be reused so I wanted to ask if that could be an option. Or do i need to order a new headliner as well? Treating this thing like a huge piece of sugar glass, heres what I got...
  15. Use the opportunity to change your pads and rotors yourself, its EZ. So long as you have the correct tools and a big ass breaker bar. The $$$ you save doing it yourself can go to more car parts.
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