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rich_e777

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rich_e777 last won the day on October 31

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About rich_e777

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    Interweb SortAScrub
  • Birthday 11/11/1986

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  • Location
    Nashville,TN

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  • Location
    Nashville, TN

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  1. 3n1 oil works great and the bottle has a long nozzle, a couple of drops of 5w, 10w etc motor oil works great too.
  2. Howdy people, looking for some unobtainium that someone might have or might come across in the yards. I`d really like to put rear bucket seats in my 1994 coupe with the center console, not particular about the color as just finding them would be awesome. Willing to do a little road trip too. Also had my eye out for a CS wing or one of similar size to contemplate putting it on the Vert with its trunk lip, I sort of like the way it looks but dont want to take the one off my coupe. I cant help but recall posting about the rear seats before but I couldnt find the thread, Thanks reading u guise!
  3. My sister had a Century but I didnt work on it much to be familiar with them. My 1995 Cutlass didnt have any rubber parts between the rear frame assembly and actual chassis of the car, just 4 big bolts. It sounds like you might have a bad rear control arm/lateral link bushing or an easier trailing arm bushing from what you describe. Also check the exhaust to see if its banging against something. Can you post a pic?
  4. Beat them without mercy with the old timing belt? Awesome to see new members trickling in still rocking the 3.4 DOHC.
  5. There are two versions of the Digi-Dash, can you post a pic of the one you have? The UB3 looks like this...
  6. My rear mounts have been oil soaked from small seeps over their long life and rust is nearly non existent down there. Im tempted to get into it today but I don't have parts just yet. I might try to have some longer bolts made to see if that helps getting the mounts compressed.
  7. I`ve got mine in the works to do the subframe mounts as well but I dont have the parts yet. So that top nut and square plate was just spinning en capsuled in there?
  8. IIRC I marked the two wires to remind me of additional things to do after the adapter was in. D-11 is the oil pressure wire and needs an older P/N switch to work with the UB3. C-13 is the other starred line and needs to tap into an existing wire on the OBD 1 harness.
  9. I dont but I do have the cheat sheet I wrote out to create the diagram with all the UB3 info on it, you will have to match your year pinout to the UB3. But I can snap a pic from the FSM for my 1994 as they are probably the same. This one may be confusing but on the side of the electrical connector it will have a "C" and "D" and 1-16 reads from left to right. Once you have all the connectors/wires and lay the back to back its much less confusing and you`ll see how only a few wires change places.
  10. Thats pretty cool really, and would be a nice trunk light. I'm interested if no one else is.
  11. Thanks for the advice, Ive never seen one used before and given the length of chain that came with it that seemed the way. I`ll have to take some things off but theres two black metal pieces with loops in them I think I can use. I`ll take some pics before I get to far.
  12. I bought one of those HF 1000lb engine support tools for about $50 so I couldnt pass it up. I need to drop the subframe in the 1995 LQ1 Vert to get at a few things but I`m unsure where to hook the chains up to the engine/trans on the passenger side or front of the engine. On the drivers side it looks like I can route the chain around the trans casing its self but if someone knows a better way to go about it I`d appreciate the advice. Need to replace the R/P and fix the pressure sensor leak and harness, the rear subframe bushings are wobbly and I want to change the oil pan gasket while I`m down there.
  13. Post please, inquiring minds want to know, I thought they got the 3800 instead so I`m sort of wondering myself ATM.
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