woodsbuggy Posted November 18, 2010 Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 Hello All, I recently purchased a 90 black TGP. The car has 140K miles but appears to be in good condition, it is rust free which is rare for Indiana. The car idles rough and wants to die at a stop, it also shifts up and down at part throttle in drive between 30 and 50mph. I have owned the car less than 2 weeks, the only driving that I have done is the 2.5 hour drive home. I have searched for a vacuum leak but have not found one yet. The crosover pipe was replaced by PO. Fuel pressure is 42psi with ignition on not running. FP is 40 at idle but drops to 35 by 2500 RPM. I plan to replace fuel pump and check injectors. Any Suggestions on other things to check? I will looking for a TG160 chip as soon as I am able to fix the current problems. Thanks Woodsbuggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGP5sp90 Posted November 18, 2010 Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 I do wish you the best of luck finding a TG160 chip for sale. However if you would like your own chip made for your car try RobertISarr and see what he can do. If your positive on no vacuum leak then your chip could be the issue on the rough idle, also along with having the rough idle would relate to the transmission shifting. Definitly hope this can be a quick fix for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMNCFI Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 I would be willing to bet if the original multitech fuel injectors are in there, at least one of them is bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 a datalog using tunerpro 5 can be posted for viewing by others and pointing out anything obvious to why it is stalling. having the ability to burn your own chip would be helpful to anyone owning a tgp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsbuggy Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Thanks for the input, As soon as it warms back up here it will get back to working on the car. I will check injectors and then do some data logs after I get a cable for my laptop. I am always looking for info to help my car run better. Thanks Again Kenric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsbuggy Posted May 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 I finally had a chance to work on my 90 TGP tonight. The cooling fan would not turn on, even when my temp gauge reached 240F, I shut the car down at that point. All of my fuses and relays look good. Also the car would not rev past 3500 RPM and it was running very rough. Thursday night I will be changing the plugs, wires, and coolant hoses, and inspect/repair the vacuum lines and installing a BOV. I still need to get a cable to connect to my laptop so I can datalog and see what it is going on. I am leaning toward fuel pump and injectors, what have you seen? Thanks Kenric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 Sounds like it could be a bad coolant temp sensor, would explain fans not running, and would cause it to run really rich (rough) as well.....does it smell like raw fuel when its running? Â Does the cat glow at night when running it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsbuggy Posted May 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 It was running very rich, I did not drive it just sitting in the driveway. Where is the other temp sensor located, I found the 1 on the drivers side of the rear head and the gauge quit working when I unplugged it. I did not look at the cat, but will have a better chance to look at things Thursday since my friend has a hoist, I just need to get the cooling fan working so I can drive the 6 miles to his house. Kenric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 coolant temp sensor is located under the throttle body in the lower intake manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsbuggy Posted May 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 Thanks for the info, is it a 1 wire or several wires? I can get one at work tomorrow(I work at NAPA). The one that I saw had 1 wire, I will look for the other one tomorrow. When does the intercooler fan turn on, is it only under boost or when IAT reaches a certain temp? My intake temp was hot, but I did not see the fan come on, I need to make a heat shield for the TURBO, so the intake pipe does not receive so much heat. Kenric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 coolant temp sensor should have 2 wires, its been so long since I've had a stock tune on mine that I can't remember when the IC fan is supposed to run. Â Mine runs pretty much all the time the car is running under 50 MPH but that's due to my tune. Â Factory these cars came with a Turbo blanket made of a fiberglass/kevlar type material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsbuggy Posted May 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 Thanks Again, Where is a good place to get a chip? I will make a heat shield for the TURBO and wrap my charge pipe. Kenric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 The guy who made my chip no longer does it, but there's another guy here goes by flybynite or Turbo V-sick that does them (goes by one name here and the other on tgpforums) His name is Adam. Â Don't have any experience with Roberts tunes (RobertSaar) but feel free to contact him as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 http://www.w-body.com/member.php/3417-Turbo-v-sick  http://www.w-body.com/member.php/2716-RobertISaar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 one of those PM 3 brake pump heat shields off our cars works good. I had an extra one and stuffed it down over the turbo for a heat shield. my upper intake pipe stays cool to the touch and nothing melts. Â if for some reason the coolant is not circulating, from an air bubble or low coolant or something it can do that. or if you have a small leak and can't get full pressure it will not circulate the coolant properly and that may cause the fans to not come on. other than that it may be the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsbuggy Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 Thanks for the help, The cooling fan now works, replaced temp sensor. The car will not rev past 3500 RPM it acts like is has a rev limiter and starts cutting out. It also runs rough at any RPM, I will look at the FPR, any other thoughts? Thanks Kenric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 when in park or in neutral when not moving, there is a lower rev limiter in place. when moving or in Drive, the normal limit is applied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsbuggy Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 I am making progress, changed my injectors Sunday and the car is running better (4 of the injectors had 8.2 to 8.6 ohms of resistance). Thanks for the parts Kyle! I am hoping to get the Turbo heat shield and charge pipe wrapped this week. I finally got my OBD1 cable ordered so soon I will be able to datalog. Any common problems that I should be looking for? Thanks Kenric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 What kind of crossover pipe is it? does it have a heat shield on it? Â Check near the transmission vacuum modulator for a check valve, one end of it should be open to atmosphere if its blocked off it can cause very weird shifting. Â Is it rev limiting in park or in drive? in park it is perfectly normal. In drive it could be either the transmission range switch or I've also heard of a bad ICM causing that condition as well. Â as far as a chip goes... Right now (I think) I am running a TG160 that was burned by Robert Sarr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Is it rev limiting in park or in drive? in park it is perfectly normal. In drive it could be either the transmission range switch or I've also heard of a bad ICM causing that condition as well. as far as a chip goes... Right now (I think) I am running a TG160 that was burned by Robert Saar.  as long as the ECM sees a signal from the VSS and calculates movement over 1MPH, then the drive rev limiter gets used regardless of P/N switch position. and yes Nunzi, i'm fairly certain you're running a vanilla TG160. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsbuggy Posted June 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 I believe that my crossover pipe is aftermarket, it has the braided stainless joints and no heat shield. There is a plug after the T by the the modulator, I will remove it(thanks for the tips). I hope to actually get the car on the road this weekend so I can see what else needs attention. The rev limiter kicks in in park so I do not believe that is a problem. Thanks for all of the help Kenric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 Injectors and crossover are 2 of the more common things that go. If you have a smoking issue the oil return line can cause that, they get old and colapse internally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsbuggy Posted July 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2011 I finally got my car on the road tonight it still has a few issues, but is running better. Thanks Chris the T had a plug at the vacuum modulator, after removing it the car is shifting properly. It still runs rough at idle and low RPM I will try to data log tomorrow on my way home from work and see what shows up. You have all been a great help the car hit 5400 RPM while in drive so I think that the rev limiter in Park was my problem there. Thanks Again Kenric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted July 2, 2011 Report Share Posted July 2, 2011 See what your iac counts are, but those do go from time to time and can cause idle issues, make sure there are no vacuum leaks either. If you haven't done plugs at this point it might be a good idea to at minimum check them and make sure they are in good condition, not platinum, and gapped right. Also they do benefit from being gapped lower then spec, however I forget what the spec is offhand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted July 2, 2011 Report Share Posted July 2, 2011 .038 is a common number from what i hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.