88red4cyl Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 I am looking at a 3500 powered 2006 Monte Carlo LT tonight.. Since I have no experience with the engine, I thought I would ask your opinions on the 3500... Are there any common problems with the engine, such as the LIM on the 3100 and the UIM on the 3800? Anything I should be watching out for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 No known issues to date yet... I will double check Identifix to see if there are any pattern faults that I have seen listed lately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrodolds Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 It doesn't have a supercharger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 Ok, I checked, and there are no known issues, except this! Keyless entry.. Even our 06 Impala 2LT, it doesnt work, GM TSB 07-08-52-001B depicts poor range or inoperability... If you buy it, an easy way to check and make sure you have the update RKE system is the keyfobs will have a " * " on the back. If it doesnt and they wont replace the system to please you to make a sale, you will need these parts.. W/O Remote Start -Antenna PN 25845987 -Keyfob PN 15912859 -RCDLR Module PN 25808836 W/ Remote Start -Antenna PN 25845987 -Keyfob PN 15912860 -RCDLR Module PN 25808837 The RCDLR Module will need replaced as well. The RCDLR module will need reprogrammed so a dealer or someone with a Tech2 and access to TIS2Web will have to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 Well shit, forgot I can save the TSB via PDF.. Here ya go!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloick Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 carsurvey.org is a great resource. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 carsurvey.org is a great resource. Counting on the general publics ignorance about cars to judge reliability is stupid.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted July 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 Were the water pumps an issue on this motor? I seem to remember something about them on the 00-05's, and I saw someone having water pump trouble on the carsurvey site... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 Were the water pumps an issue on this motor? I seem to remember something about them on the 00-05's, and I saw someone having water pump trouble on the carsurvey site... Nope.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted July 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 Were the water pumps an issue on this motor? I seem to remember something about them on the 00-05's, and I saw someone having water pump trouble on the carsurvey site... Nope.. Bob, I was wondering if you could tell me the suspension problems the newer gens have.. Buck mentioned it last night, but said I'd have to ask you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 Well, heres the lovely thing about that.. They use the same damn parts as Gen 2s Which means front and rear hub assembly issues (more so the front) Our Impala has a front right with slight play Tie rods, same design, slightly better quality... Shouldnt have any problems early on, but around 50K, dont be shocked when you need a new tie rod or 2 Stab links, should last as long as the struts, which should be replaced at about 60K along with mounts. 60K is when they definately show a little bit of age which is expected with that mileage.. SHouldnt have any that blow out like the 04-06 Malibus Use the same control arms, which means the front bushing will pull out, but shouldnt be an issue until 100K or more.. ZZP sells nice control arms with spherical bearing rod ends in their place of course, at 50K, your suspension isnt brand new, it needs to be maintained just like your engine and trans.. As far as struts, I believe the GXP Bilsteins will make a nice upgrade and typically last 100K without failures. Rear lateral links are still tubular and adjustable for toe. Lateral links are the same exact design since 88 W-bodies, just the steel seems a bit more resistant to rust.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted July 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 Well, heres the lovely thing about that.. They use the same damn parts as Gen 2s Which means front and rear hub assembly issues (more so the front) Our Impala has a front right with slight play Tie rods, same design, slightly better quality... Shouldnt have any problems early on, but around 50K, dont be shocked when you need a new tie rod or 2 Stab links, should last as long as the struts, which should be replaced at about 60K along with mounts. 60K is when they definately show a little bit of age which is expected with that mileage.. SHouldnt have any that blow out like the 04-06 Malibus Use the same control arms, which means the front bushing will pull out, but shouldnt be an issue until 100K or more.. ZZP sells nice control arms with spherical bearing rod ends in their place Oh boy.. THe car has 96k on it right now.. Known issues at this point are needing a front wheel bearing and tie rod, and it needs brakes and an alignment... I also noticed that there is some black deposit on the white paint right above the tail pipe tip... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 But I do have to say... The tie rods and control arms seems to last much longer than Gen 2 cars.. Im yet to see but 1 Gen 3 car with a bad tie rod and control arm bushing.. I would have to say to expect 100K without issues except struts/mounts that are recommended to be replaced betweek 50-60K Well, if it need a tie rod and hub assy, dont turn it down.. Install a quality moog tie rod, and a timken hub and dont look back!! black soot is gonna happen on a white car.. The exhaust really hits the rear bumpers quite a bit on them.. And that mileage, just do plugs and wires, and a good carbon induction cleaning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 As far as brakes, replace them with aftermarket parts... GM rotors will warp!! The warp at about 30K, turn them, and they will get another 15-20K before they pulsate again.. You will end up installing 2 sets of rotors before the factory pads wear out!! I recommend Napa Premium rotors, with their Adaptive One ceramic pads. Best stopping and smoothest combo I have yet to install and experience on a Gen 3!! Napa aslo has performance rotors that are very good, but run $100 each.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 The steering intermediate shaft likes to clunk a bit.. You get used to it, it can be lubed to fix it of course. Im too lasy to do it to our Impala yet I gotta say, im a Gen 3 fanatic!! I love the feel, and very identical to Gen 2s but with better quality parts and build quality, but not without their own special issues.. If it breaks, just upgrade the sommabitch!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted July 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 I'm not too scared of suspension parts needing replaced... I priced stuff out last night, and I'm looking at about $600-700 to buy the parts its going to need (also need 2 new front tires)... He mentioned something about the check engine light being on as well... That's the thing thats got me worried more than anything else... But for $3600, we'll see how it is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 I'm not too scared of suspension parts needing replaced... I priced stuff out last night, and I'm looking at about $600-700 to buy the parts its going to need (also need 2 new front tires)... He mentioned something about the check engine light being on as well... That's the thing thats got me worried more than anything else... But for $3600, we'll see how it is... $3600?!?!?!?! Buy it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted July 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 I'm not too scared of suspension parts needing replaced... I priced stuff out last night, and I'm looking at about $600-700 to buy the parts its going to need (also need 2 new front tires)... He mentioned something about the check engine light being on as well... That's the thing thats got me worried more than anything else... But for $3600, we'll see how it is... $3600?!?!?!?! Buy it!! I have a relative who works at a dealership.. Someone traded it in the other day, and instead of fixing it and reselling it they are wholesaling it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 My moms G6 has 60k on it but its still the 3500... At 52k it was misfiring, We put new plugs in and it went away... Thats the only issue we had Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted July 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 Well, we went and looked at it, and we really liked what we saw for the most part... There was only one issue that really concerned me, and that was the coolant... For one, the level was incredibly low in the overflow... I'm talking like barely covering the bottom of the container... It didn't go above the middle hash on the temp gauge when we drove it and let it idle for like 10 minutes afterwards... The level did go up when it warmed up, but only to just under the cold line... There are no external leaks on the motor, so either it is leaking internally, or the coolant has just evaporated over the course of 97k miles... The second thing I noticed that seemed bothersome was the inside of the coolant resevoir... It was covered in some browny looking shit, except where the coolant level had been riding at (at just below the cold line)... Any ideas on this? The oil looked ok, but its only been driven about 20 miles since the oil change (which the dealership did as soon as they took possession but before they found the other crap wrong)... I don't know if it can become milkshake that quickly or not... The check engine light is also on, but I have a feeling it may be the gas cap since it said tighten gas cap on the DIC while we were driving even though it was already tight.. We're going to take it up to Auto Zone Thursday and have them pull the codes to make sure... And, just to top it off, here's some pics of the car: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 I love the newer Montes... A little info on the coolant.. GM apparently liked to skimp on it.. Most of the newer GMs always have barely any coolant in the resovoir.. Every single one that I have seen is like that.. And im even talking people who bring theirs in for the 1st oil change at 4000 miles. The brown crap, just coolant goo.. at that mileage, the coolant should be flushed... Ignore the 150K recommendation.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 Wow its my moms car!! except white! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted July 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 I love the newer Montes... A little info on the coolant.. GM apparently liked to skimp on it.. Most of the newer GMs always have barely any coolant in the resovoir.. Every single one that I have seen is like that.. And im even talking people who bring theirs in for the 1st oil change at 4000 miles. The brown crap, just coolant goo.. at that mileage, the coolant should be flushed... Ignore the 150K recommendation.. That's good to know... I saw how low it was and almost crapped myself... I don't know how people can just ignore stuff like that... So you see a lot where they barely cover the bottom of the bottle (which is akward to read.. i had to whip out the owners manual to figure it out lol)? And I am incredibly relieved that the brown crap is normal(?)... I thought maybe the coolant had boiled in there or mixed with oil or something and made that crap... All in all though, it runs like a champ (from what I can tell)... The motor makes a tiny bit of noise (almost like piston slap, but like 1/10th as loud), but it runs really smoothly... The only thing I couldn't get to work was remote start... But then I saw in the manual that it disables itself if the SES light is on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 at that price you're CRAZY to not get that!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted July 22, 2009 Report Share Posted July 22, 2009 And I am incredibly relieved that the brown crap is normal(?)... I thought maybe the coolant had boiled in there or mixed with oil or something and made that crap... I wouldn't call it "normal" as it isn't intended, but it is common and nothing to fret about. I'd take the jug off and clean it out before having the cooling system flushed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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