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Ways You'd Improve the 1st Gen W


GP1138

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The Go4DaMo time machine strikes again!!

 

Regular mcpherson front struts would be really nice. reinventing the wheel on the ones we have was a questionable move.

Doorhandles... enough said

Trashcan PMIII before it ever got approved

Use a MTX that can be rebuilt easier on the 3.4 cars

88-93 rear calipers. Go back to drum or find something better.

 

Well 94-97 wasn't that good either. IDK where they found the rear disc but it is skinny as hell. The other annoying thing is how hard it is to push in the rear caliper pistons in. I actually bent my c clamp on it and broke another.

 

Also, apparantly it's normal for the back breaks to be changed before the fronts need to.

 

.... what's weird about the front struts? the ability to drop cartridges into it without disassembling the strut? or the non-sealed factory cartridges?

 

I think it's the fact that you don't have to take off the whole assembly to change the struts.

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Well 94-97 wasn't that good either. IDK where they found the rear disc but it is skinny as hell. The other annoying thing is how hard it is to push in the rear caliper pistons in. I actually bent my c clamp on it and broke another.

 

Also, apparantly it's normal for the back breaks to be changed before the fronts need to.

 

 

 

I think it's the fact that you don't have to take off the whole assembly to change the struts.

 

I hope you're joking, the rear calipers are a ratcheting style that get turned in with a special tool. If you forced them with a clamp they're junk.

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Fuse boxes that aren't impossible to access for the underhood bar clearance.

Again, normal strut assemblies all around, it's getting old having bizarre rear and front suspension

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I hope you're joking, the rear calipers are a ratcheting style that get turned in with a special tool. If you forced them with a clamp they're junk.

2nd

 

You can rent a tool for free with reimbursed deposit or by a little cube like tool for about $10 that looks like it would work well, goes on the end of a ratchet. Or you could do like I do and use a wrenches prongs to fit into the grooves and stick a screwdriver through the closed end to act as a lever. Takes about an extra 5 minutes but works just fine.

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I use the little cube thing, harbor freight sells what appears to be a nicer tool but my little cube gets the job done once every two years

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The rear suspension doesn't bother me. And I used to think the front was pretty gee-wiz, but its a pain to work with, I'd rather have a separate knuckle and strut, not to mention you loose an alignment point with it.

 

And boy if you think the 94+ rear calipers are bad, just try living with the old junk

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I hope you're joking, the rear calipers are a ratcheting style that get turned in with a special tool. If you forced them with a clamp they're junk.

 

I never knew this actually. Haven't had problems with em, I've done the rear brakes twice in this fashion. First time in 2013 and the 2nd time in March of this year. Ebrake works fine too. Actually the brakes on the Cutty are pretty strong and I'm pretty sure I'm not the first one to do this either on the car or in general.

 

2nd

 

You can rent a tool for free with reimbursed deposit or by a little cube like tool for about $10 that looks like it would work well, goes on the end of a ratchet. Or you could do like I do and use a wrenches prongs to fit into the grooves and stick a screwdriver through the closed end to act as a lever. Takes about an extra 5 minutes but works just fine.

 

AZ only I assume?

 

The rear suspension doesn't bother me. And I used to think the front was pretty gee-wiz, but its a pain to work with, I'd rather have a separate knuckle and strut, not to mention you loose an alignment point with it.

 

And boy if you think the 94+ rear calipers are bad, just try living with the old junk

 

The rear suspension is the most annoying thing on the car. Fixed lateral links? Really GM? The whole alignment issue on my car is based on those damn links. Then there's the monoleaf. Why? Why would you use a monoleaf in 1988, but a McPherson strut system in the front? Obviously GM thought it was a bad idea the 2nd time around because that monoleaf left the building in 95 for the Lumina and Monte Carlo.

 

Meh, I just thought there was something wrong with mine. I never realized there was a tool for it... but now that I know it just reinforces what I've always felt about the rear suspension. Really I could live with the monoleaf but I seriously wish it had adjustable lateral links. The skinny disc is just weird.

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- Cup holders that actually work.

- Alternate battery location. (Pulling the cross brace and the washer tank to change the battery gets old fast.)

- Factory front strut bar on every model, not just Cutlass Convertibles.

- No sealed beam headlamps

- No weird 94-95 "OBD 1.5" bullcrap (Some of you guys know exactly what I mean.)

- Major revisions to the 4T60-E.

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x2 on the cup holder. I remember my dad broke mine in the Lumina(had the flip out one from the bench seat center console) one time without even knowing it. It took me forever to find a new one, and I think I used it a handful of times in the next few years :lol: I was afraid to touch it

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It would be nice to not risk carpet burns to the back of my hand when I try to adjust the driver's seat with the door closed. Thank you for the big freaking hump in the door panel for the seat belt, GM!

 

Oh yes, and the remote trunk release on the far side of the glove compartment.

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GM still builds a vehicle with transverse leaf springs.... front and rear.

While packing 650 ponies under the hood too...

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