nebojsa_o Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Hi guys. Well, just lately I've been saying how my car has treated me very well since I bought it, I guess I jinxed myself. I turned the car on, and my ABS light (known problem, waiting for spring) was accompanied by Check Engine light. I scanned it, and came out with code P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Would this be just the sensor that needs to be replaced, or is something causing it to throw a code, and the sensor is OK? What does the Range/Performance mean? Any tests I can do? I didn't notice anything different in the performance of the car... Drives the same, idles the same, doesn't sound any different, just the light came on. This is a '96 3100, with 100,000 miles on it if it means something to somebody. Can anyone tell me where the Camshaft sensor is located, or what it looks like, what am I looking for? Or what needs to come off for me to see it, or get to it? Information of any kind would be very helpful, because I have no clue what I'm looking for, or what kind of a job I'm in for. Either way, I'll be doing it myself, so I need all the help I can get. Thanks for helping. And if you see the thread slipping away, please Bump for a somewhat sexy Cutlass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Probably just a sensor, unless it runs like total hell. The sensor, itself, will be on the passenger side of the vehicle. You might have to move the power steering pump out of the way to get to the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Probably just a sensor, unless it runs like total hell. The sensor, itself, will be on the passenger side of the vehicle. You might have to move the power steering pump out of the way to get to the sensor. yeah the cam sensor is in the middle of the valley on the passenger side of the engine. IIRC, if it fails the computer operates the injectors in failsafe mode, as multiport injection instead of sequential injection. so you might loose some economy and/or power but can still drive. you can trace your way to the sensor if needed, it's wires run to the connector bolted down at the front passenger side of the plenum. It comes to mind that the intake has to be removed to access it... but thst page is missing from my FSM. and it's too cold to go outside and check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99RegalGS Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Remove the serpentine drive belt. # Refer to Section 3B for removal of power steering pump assembly. # Remove the electrical connector. # Remove the bolt. # Remove the sensor. Here's a pic so you know exactly where it is. It's the thing with the blue. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 left side of the valley i need to look at mine, I swear the intake overlaps the edge! maybe cause i have a 3400 intake? I'll shut my trap for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebojsa_o Posted February 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Well guys, thanks for the information. I'm thinking about getting at it today, but I do have some other things I have to do... Anyone know roughly how long of a job this would be. We'll double everything you say, since I'm not super comforable taking everything apart, and am always worried about putting it back together. If not today, then most likely this sunday... Thanks again for the good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 It could take you 8 minutes or 8 hours.....for a skilled person that has done it several times, its usually a 15 minute job. Just unbolt the power steering pump and set it to the side. The code is pry set from all the oil and coolant leaking from the intake gasket.......even if it was resealed recently, the damage is from the old gasket/GMS....the coolant and oil get into the wiring of the sensor and cause the insulation to pull back causing them to ground out. The CMPS can be changed without pulling the lower intake...you may have to trim some of the excess sealant to get it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Shit if I wasn't working I'd lend a hand Neb..at least you will have the weather working in your favor this weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebojsa_o Posted February 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 Thanks for all the help and info everyone! IT IS DONE! It took about 20 minutes, maybe 30 tops. Pulled the old one out, and put the new one in there. Put the PS Pump back in place, tightened everything up, and that was it. After scanning it again, it only found the code in memory, not as currently active, so I guess it's good. I'm almost certain the sensor was the problem. Should I be worried that it was cracked like that, or is that to do with age, heat? Either way, thanks for the help everyone, and for the offer Jeff, but looks like it's under control. Oh and my idle seems to be smoother than it was for the last month. Although the code only came on like 2 days ago... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 Awesome dude! Did you clear all the codes so your engine light is off?? anyway glad everything worked out for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebojsa_o Posted February 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 Oh yeah, I guess I didn't mention that. Yes, I ereased the code from the memory, and we'll see if it comes back on. I don't think it will, I hope it won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 Oh yeah, I guess I didn't mention that. Yes, I ereased the code from the memory, and we'll see if it comes back on. I don't think it will, I hope it won't. Yeah I had a problem like that with my Dad's Suburban this summer when I blew up the pump mount driver on the 6.5TD...replaced the part and the fuckin' light kept coming back (after erasing the code)..finally took it to the repair shop and somehow the injection pump timing got thrown off haha... Only reason I asked is we bought a scanner finally just in case you didn't have your code erased.. anyways! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 Those cracks happen....at least seeing it means you know you replaced the right thing and you don't have a wiring problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 I wouldn't worry about the cracking......just a sign of old age. My coolant temp sensor (the one for the ECM) literally disintegrated. I touched it when I went to change it and it completely fell into tiny pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99RegalGS Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 Glad the job went well for you Neb!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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