bigshynepo Posted August 6, 2006 Report Share Posted August 6, 2006 So, just weeks after my wallet-devestating $2000 upper and lower manifold gasket change and full timing assembly replacement (not just the belt, everything) I was driving along when something odd happened. I had given the 3.4 gas till my needle was over 3500RPM but then, my next gear wouldn't kick in and my RPMs just started rising on their own. I tried to hit the break and let completely off the gas and the whole thing sounded/smelled like it went to shit as the needle fell back down to 2,000RPM. After that, I wouldn't let my needle get up to 3500RPM or I could duplicate the symptoms again. Life was OK and I was going to drive it like that until I could afford to go and get it diagnosed/fixed. So today, I am pulling out of my friend's crescent at a low speed and I hear this "Wirrr" noise, I instantly pull over and try to duplicate it. I can't. "Alright, off we go I guess." So we proceeded a few more blocks when suddenly my wheels stopped getting power from the drivetrain. It revved ok but there was no response in speed. I managed to pull off onto a side road where I discovered I lost all my drive gears and my reverse gear. It would rev ok, I never took it up to 3500RPM to duplicate my first symptom, but now my major concern was the car not moving at all. So here I am, car is half way across town, it's a fucking useless long weekend and I probably won't be able to get it looked at until tuesday or wednesday. Any ideas on what just happened? I think it might have been my torque converter going but now with the car not even moving, I'm stumped. Will a blown torque converter make your car not move at all? HELP :bawling1: The 1995 only has 106,000 KM on it, I've replaced the gaskets, o-rings seal, brakes, various other things, the whole timing assembly and now this!?! I've only had it 6 months and it's killing me financially. EDIT: no comments on how my repairs would be cheaper if I did them myself, thanx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted August 6, 2006 Report Share Posted August 6, 2006 I would think it would be the converter. Did the car buck from a stop (like rev before it moved). If it did, its most likely the converter. Bring the car to a well trusted transmission shop and have them look at it. Don't go to a place like AAmco cause they are crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigshynepo Posted August 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2006 No, it didn't rev from a stop, just the symptoms described above. Would a dealer just farm out the transmission work or is this something they would do at the dealer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Just sounds like the transmission is toast to me. I'm also not terribly experienced in this field, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdcutty Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 yep, time for a new tranny. Sorry bout your luck man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 hey... shit happens. As far as replacement, I would either go to a junker and try to find whatever tranny you got with low mileage and buy that and take it to a trusted shop. or Take it somewhere that is trusted and let them find the parts for you. I'd say do some research on prices and pick one up and bring the tranny to a place if your not going to install it your self. It would probably be cheaper that way. If you have the 4t60-E tranny have a shop check the solenoids the engage the gears. They could be slipping or it could be a spring. -I feel bad for ya man- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCRagtopguy Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 I had a Z24 that did the same thing. It was the torque convertor but when the shop took it apart there was a real scarred up part in the valve body so all the guts had to be replaced. Cost me around 1800 bucks as I recall about 5 years ago. Sorry for your rotten luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam'ron Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 ouch chris, that freakin sucks sounds for sure like your converter or unfortunately your tranny. Is pablo into wrenching like that? this could cost a good chunk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigshynepo Posted August 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 I am praying that the whole thing isn't fried, if the repairs come in at $700-800 bucks, that'll be ok. If they come in at $2000, the first triple white in 6 months might come up for sale... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crimson Fury Z Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 *cough*5-speed*haaaack!* chip may need modified or may need the chip from the donor. just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luminal67 Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 just as a thought. i would check the differential. i have heard of them going out like that. actually, it happened to me. when i had the 3.1 and 3 spd auto, i was driving at highway speeds and all of a sudden i heard a really loud whirrring/ whining. and then nothing, no reverse, no forward. i took it to a tranny shop and it turned out to be a diff. but the bad thing was, when it went, it took out alot of the rest of the trans with it. so basically, i got a total rebuild for the price of a differential replacement because that was what i was quoted first. sorry its a long post, but hopefully it helps its also too bad that you don't need a 3 spd auto, because i have one with 10,000-15,000 miles on a rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 When you tried to move, did the speedometer move at all? or did it start clicking when you put it into park? Check the fluid. If it is dark like coffee, than look where the pass. side CV joint goes into the transmission. If the differential grenaded, the caseing should be broken up, and there should be some fluid on the ground. Also, if the differential did blow up, you will be able to roll the car while its in park. Luckily, on the 4t60E, you can just change out the diff, slap on a new cover, flush the fluid, change the filter and be on your way. That what I did to my cutlass and have put over 7000 Km on it with 0 problems. On the 3.4, its basically the same job as an alt change, with a couple extra steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigshynepo Posted August 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 So I phoned around this morning and it looks like the price ranges for a full rebuild on the 4T60E transmission in edmonton are around $2100-$2800 cdn. The R&R at the one shop is $510 plus the job time so if the differential is fucked but the tranny is good, then it might not be too bad. If any of the edmonton members know of a good cheap transmission shop, drop me a line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 sounds like it is most likely a grenaded differential. Good luck on getting it fixed! before you turn the car over to anyone, you should try to see what you might find. keep us posted, and get pics??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z34_nut Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 I want to see the said carnage when the tranny is yanked. BTW don't have it rebuilt, find a junker to save some $$ for the time being. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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