mindgame Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 just recently picked up a tgp and when it idles it kind of stumbles a bit... i had a scanner on it and didnt find anything with that, ran a motor vac on it and cleaned out the fuel system, that didnt help but the intake, injectors and fuel rails are nice and clean now , the x over does have a small leak, but its not running rich or lean.. other thing, some times when i get on it from a dig it will just fall on its face, from a roll it will sometimes only get about 2 pounds of boost and 6-7 others. any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 How many miles are on the car? Have you checked out your ignition system yet? Plugs and plug wires are very inexpensive items to replace, and probably isn't a bad idea if you have no idea how old the current ones on the car are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mindgame Posted December 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 havent had time to go over that yet, ill probably have time when finals are over and i have some free time between classes and work. but that was something that planned on doing. i see your a kansan too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 Plugs, wires, coil packs, ICM. That should cover your ignition system I understand the cracked crossovers do cause some problems with these cars, but I'm not fully aware as to what all problems may arise (don't know too awful much about them). You could also try small things like the TPS and IAC. Did you try Seafoam or GM top end cleaner? I hear that stuff works wonders (but change your plugs after doing so!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mindgame Posted December 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 i cleaned the intake with the motorvac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 Where in KS are you? A cracked crossover can cause runablilty problems, but mostly stalling, low boost and such. Sound's like your stumbling may be more ignition related. Good luck on your finals! I just had a comprehensive one this morning at 7:30 The rest should be easy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 Where in KS are you? A cracked crossover can cause runablilty problems, but mostly stalling, low boost and such. Sound's like your stumbling may be more ignition related. Good luck on your finals! I just had a comprehensive one this morning at 7:30 The rest should be easy enough. why would xover cause low boost? It just causes the car to run rich, that would definatly make it idle like shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 probably because you'd have exhaust gas leaking out instead of helping to push the turbine. the one i took off my TSTE a few weeks ago was so bad that one of the bellows was almost cracked to the point of being a completely seperate piece :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 .......and that car didn't boost much at all. I thought about dropping my TG160 in it just to see what that would do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mindgame Posted December 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 well the idleing problem has been smoothing out on its own, i think the motorvac helped out alot. but im still having problems with the boost. 90% of the time from a dig it wont even roast the tires off and shows about 2 psi. the other 10% of the time it will show 7psi and is a noticable differance. anyone want to get me pointed into the right direction as what to look for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 is your egr hose cracked? it can spit out hot gas and melt through the vac lines under the intake. you gotta take off the egr and slide the heat shield up and look for cracks. but be careful taking it off and try not to crack it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90_Black_TGP Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 If you have washed the engine, check the contact points on the coil packs. I made that mistake (I would like to say once but I did it twice) before and when they dont make good contact they can really kill performance. It will fool you at idle and run fine but when they get a load on them performance will drop pretty quick. Mine kind of acted like a vacuum leak and fooled me for a while. If you dont have a diagnostic computer, try hooking up an old timing light on the individual plug wires to make sure youre getting spark on all cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mindgame Posted December 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 i hooked up to a scanner when i had it at school and it didnt pick anything up. wont beable to until jan 15th when i go back... and all my tools are locked up there so i dont have my dvom or anything i can fiddle around with just some basic tools i left out at my parents house... but i plan on check for vac leaks, egr, and spark tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mindgame Posted December 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 offtopic, what the hell is with these pontiacs and their window motors, driver side on the tgp and both on the ws6 dont work ill make sure to have them fixed by spring so the t-tops can come off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 lol either the electric motot has jambed, or the mechanical arms have become bent and jambed. Sometimes knocking them with a hammer fixes them! Trust me, they are better than ford window motors, I've fixed 16 of them.... on four seperate lincolns. Yes, all four on each of these cars needing repaired! I've only had to fix three Gm motors in about 25 different cars that I've dealt with. so don't complain... too much... to remove, I punch out the center of the rivets then drill them out, Or grind them off if the rivet is persistant. enlarge the holes to the next largest size SAE thread (3/8 I think) And buy 1/2 inch long bolts with ny-locking nuts to install the replacement/repaired motor with. And make sure the motor is shot by directly forcing electricily into it's connector using long jumper cables run from a car battery with nails as 'needles' to tap the contacts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 oh god ford ones are terrible, my friends 95 Mercury Sable, 3 of 4 windows actually work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 actually they did a redesign around 1990. they still suck but are better. The ones with a cable drive system tend to be less likely to break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 well the idleing problem has been smoothing out on its own, i think the motorvac helped out alot. but im still having problems with the boost. 90% of the time from a dig it wont even roast the tires off and shows about 2 psi. the other 10% of the time it will show 7psi and is a noticable differance. anyone want to get me pointed into the right direction as what to look for. If the car is stock it shouldn't roast the tires off. There is a boost ramp in the stock chip designed so that the car won't roast the tires off, it is actually mainly designed to save the trans. You should have to brake torque it a bit for it to roast them off. However with an aftermarket boost controller the turbo will spool insanely fast, you will have no noticable turbo lag at all with an aftermarket boost controller, but your trans will hate you. For the boost issue, I would look at the hoses coming out of the turbo and into the intercooler, out of the IC, etc... Also make sure your vacuum lines are hooked up to your boost controller properly. If it gets 2psi sometimes and 6-7psi others I would say that there is probably some KR or some other problem that the computer is seeing that is causing it to pull your boost. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mindgame Posted December 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html i know its for 4th gen fbodys but im sure its about the same in the tgp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mindgame Posted December 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 You should have to brake torque it a bit for it to roast them off still wont do it then, kinda falls on its face then picks up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skalor Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 There is a launch mode in the ECM that doesn't allow hard launches. If the ECM sees too much boost for too long at 0 mph it pulls all the timing. Which is why the car will just bog and then just pick up and go. It's meant to save the trans and that's also why the boost ramp is in there as well. There is a fine line that you can get the car to launch good without getting in launch mode, so try not beating on it so hard. Also are you saying 2 psi according to factory gauge in the dash or do you have an aftermarket gauge?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 I say thrash all you want but do it smart. When you go to power brake it, ake sure it is shifted down into D or 1 or 2 , build up the boost and drop-da-hammer! These trannys are tough as nails. If your motor mounts and front struts are tight you should be ok. you might change the fluid and filter before trying it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 These trannys are tough as nails. Tell that to my last three trannys. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mindgame Posted December 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 tgp trannys just about as bad as the 4L60Es? ive been planning on doing a th350 swap with a gearvendors so i dont lose the over drive. what strong(er) trannys are avail for the tgps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 As long as these trans arnt beat on they last a long time, it the braking system, im scard to death to touch mine, dealers do it for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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