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  1. The BLUE connector is C1. Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).) Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).) Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground. Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light. Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground. Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used. Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected. Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light. The BLACK connector is C2. Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button. Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15. Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13. Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model. Driver Info System was not available 92+. You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket. Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.
  2. Since putting the engine back in my '92 GTP my DIC is not getting any fuel data. Instant econ is 0 and it's constantly telling me to check fuel. It's done this before but usually it comes back after a day or two, but not this time. Suggestions? Thanks, DD
  3. Okay the engine starts fine when cold. The engine starts fine when up to temp and restarting within 5 minutes of shutting it off. If the car sits for 15 minutes to 45 minutes, the engine will fire and then drop down in rpms almost stalling or it will just stall. If I give it a bit of gas when the engine fires and keep the rpms up for 30 seconds the engine will stay running. The car has had a complete tune up, new fuel pump, gas tank, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is good and steady. The intake gaskets and plenium have been replaced. TPS , MAP, MAF, Crank and Cam sensors have all been replaced. All vacuum lines have been replaced. No codes are being thrown. Anyone have any ideas?
  4. It happens a couple minutes after starting, if I go in reverse or drive sometimes it'll stall out with out my foot on the gas. I changed plugs, wires, map sensor egr valve gasket, cleaned throttle body iac and egr, fuel pressure was normal, cant find vacuum leaks. Does anybody have an idea or have had this problem before? map sensor reads bad but I replaced it and tested the new one, code 33 is coming up, I used a multi meter at the plug and its getting 5 volts. Here's a video.
  5. Hi, I have (hopefully) a simple question about an EVAP system pipe, and any help would be appreciated. I have all other pipes identified (2000 GTP donor for homebuilt-reverse trike) but the smaller one nearest to the sending unit. I believe it comes from the Fill Limiter Vent Valve. Does it tee into the purge pipe to the engine, or is it for fresh air, or what? I've unsuccessfully scoured the internet and two different GM service manuals for the answer. I did find one picture of the line but it ends in dead space with no indication of where it connects to. It's labelled "1" in the picture and referred to as "vapor pipe". It's the second pipe from the top in the other picture. The links to the pics are below. Thanks, Aaron
  6. Basics- 96 Lumina 109k, 3100. Car has all new fuel lines, AC Delco fuel pump, fuel pump relay, new gas tank and new filler neck. I intermittently get this P1441 code when the car is cold and driven past 20 mph. It comes and goes as it pleases. I've done some research online but I'm not sure where to go in terms of diagnosis. Also- unsure if this is related. I am having a hard start issue once the car is up to operating temperature. When the car is cold, I have no issue at all. Would like to straighten this out if possible. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
  7. The previous owner of my car changed the motor in my car, these are all parts from the donor engine, as far as I know, they are all good. There is a EGR valve, a map sensor and a whole host of other sensors, a fuel rail with 4 injectors, a ignition control module with 2 coils on it, a throttle body with the IAC and TPS attached, and some other goodies. I subtotalled all these parts and new they would be over $350. I'm tired of looking at this lot and doubt I would get much as eBay because no one seems to have any love for old w-body parts. These are all from a 90's 3100 and may fit other cars besides the w-body with the 3.1 engine. I will let the whole lot go for $45.00 plus whatever shipping will be to your zip code. Heck, a new EGR is that much!
  8. Up for grabs I have a set of 1997 Monte Carlo 3.4 DOHC fuel injectors. I am unsure of the miles on them. Worked when pulled. $25 shipped. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hey guys I'm new here, just trying to sell an engine. I picked this motor up a few years ago as a backup but I've got no use for it now as I sold the Monte Carlo I had. The motor is a complete 1991-1993 long block, from cylinder heads to oil pan. It includes every engine sensor, water pump, and alternator all brand new. There is not a used part on this engine, not even a bolt. I will include a box of used parts with the motor, along with the factory service manuals for the engine. There is a 91-93 lower intake manifold, fuel rail, 2 sets of fuel injectors, upper intake manifold, engine cover, and several (Maybe 4-5?) valve covers. Shipping is on you. I can build a crate for the engine and have it sent via freight, or you can drive out to Denver, Colorado and pick it up. Price is firm at $1,200. Thanks!
  10. Hi guys, I have a 97 cutlass supreme 3100 that cranks and starts but will not run for more than 10 seconds. The car starts up, idles high around 2k and drops off until it stalls quickly. The problem started a couple days ago when I was testing fuel pressure, to address a slight misfire, and a decent amount spilled out of the valve on the fuel rail and went on top of the cam sensor and leaked down to the 24x crank sensor. I replaced the cam sensor thinking that would solve the problem but it remains exactly the same. My understanding is the car should run but just poorly if it was the cam or 24x sensor. There are no other sensors in the area and the car ran ok before this. Could it be a problem with the pcm? If anybody has any ideas of what I should look into it would be appreciated. - John
  11. Hey, W family. 1st & foremost...can't wait for the W-Body Nationals this year! 2ndly, my 92 3.1 is sputtering, sometimes to the point of stalling abruptly and spontaneously when hot. Some days it's perfect. Some days, it'll want to leave you stranded. My 1st thought was the new pos Airtex fuel pump is failing, because it has been whining loudly like a vacuum cleaner when hot. Now, I'm thinking FPR. It's showing 43 PSI w/key on, 37 at idle. When I pull the vacuum line to the FPR, 43 PSI again. Am I on the right track here to replace the FPR? Thanks!
  12. pshojo

    3100 Help

    I know this has been discussed before, and i really didn't pay much attention because i've not been in the situation. I have 1995 cutlass supreme 3.1 and giving my engine to a friend of mine that has 1998 buick century 3.1 that is knocking. I pulled both motors and the intakes look distinctly different and some of the sensors are different. Please help me as i'm trying not to miss anything. The EGR, Intake temp sensor, Knock sensor, exhaust manifolds, and fuel Injector harness under the intake looks like the connectors are different and will need swapped. Can i just swap the upper intakes? What else am i Missing? any other sensors, ?? Please help while the engines are out?
  13. Hi, I am helping a friend fix her 1991 Cutlass Supreme. The supply and return fuel lines that go from the fuel tank to the filter and to the return line need to be replaced. The GM part numbers for these lines are 10062888 and 10062887. These parts are discontinued from GM. I am sure someone else has replaced these lines. How did you approach it? Dorman does have a repair line (dorman part #55180) but that will only help with the supply side. The return side has a female fitting. The part for later years is available, and have a similar shape, but they have different connectors. The junkyard parts available are rusted as badly as the parts on this car. Thanks for any help you can offer.
  14. L36 heads for sale, $20/pair. If someone wants them I can run them to the Columbus meet, too heavy to bring if nobody says they want them. 130,000 miles off running engine. L67 blower, TMU, off an engine I stripped. Again too heavy unless someone claims it. $25. 2 brand new remote fobs for gen II, bought for the Bonneville and they're the wrong ones $8/ea. Left hand DIC, lightweight, it's coming regardless. $8. 3 Gauge dashtop pod $15, wanted to live where my HUD is going so I used alternate mounts. L36 fuel rail, lim, tb, make offer, not coming without some interest. Have a used uim to go as well but I wouldn't run a used one so I'm assuming nobody wants it. l26 Fuel rail, I don't know why I have an L26 fuel rail but it's pretty. L36 Valve Covers I'll probably have more odds and ends.
  15. My mother's 98 Lumina LS, all the lights turn on, but the Lights for the Guages, Fuel, RPM, Speedometer, And Temp arnt comming on, went ahead and serviced the 3 fuse boxes and replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals, replaced all the bulbs in all the sockets, in the cluster, A/C controller, and door switches. Can't figured out what's making the lights not come on. What's left to check? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. ron350

    Fuel pump damper?

    My 96 Regal uses the fuel pump damper (pulsator) like shown in the picture below. My question is do you replace the damper with a new one or just use a piece of rubber fuel line?
  17. Hello, I just bought an 04 GTP and of course 3 days later it now sputters VERY badly when pushed at full throttle, which I've done less than 10 times, but the 6 or so yesterday and today have got progressively worse. Seemingly zero problem at about 40% throttle and under, but if you floor it, it bogs down almost immediately. I was thinking fuel filter or cat, but since I'm new to these, I thought I'd ask a community of owners first! Thanks for your help and I hope to help others here one day once I get to know this car better.
  18. Hey guys, 95 vert 3.4, 172,000 miles usually runs pretty good. The other day I started it and it shut right off. Started it again and it revved up to 4000 rpm and slowly died out. Started it again and kept my foot on the gas and it wouldn't rev higher than 4000 rpms and started to sputter if I tried to go higher. Kept foot on gas steady for about 3 minutes, then slowly let off and it was fine. It seems to only do this in the morning or after sitting for a few hours. It runs fine after it stays started. Btw..where is the fuel filter on this car. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
  19. 1988 cutlass2.8 FWD! long cranking before starting? runs ok after start -when I can get it started!!Spark & fuel all good & comp. too. Whats up with this thing?? seems i have read long ago about a temp sender causing this???? if so?? where is that located? Thanx
  20. ok,seems like I am never going to stop working on this 92 the gas guage isn't reading right. It says a quarter of a tank of gas but it is empty...any ideas? I know that it's either the guage or the sending unit...I replaced the fuel pump last year and everything looked fine on that end...When I fill it up it goes way past the full .mark...thqks in advance...
  21. Can anyone tell me if a '94 3.4 LQ1 oil pressure/fuel pump switch will work with a '92 3.1, or if it even has one. Thanks, Steve.
  22. fast buick

    Lx9 swap

    hello to all im getting ready to swap in a Lx9 3.5 from a 2006 pontiac g6 its going into a 2000 buick century i already got new metal intake gasket set n throttle adapter n waiting on external crank trigger n also to take care of the map sensor plug n two wire temp. sensor n cam sensor plug im using fuel injector wireing harness from 2005 impala 3.4 which takes care of all the connectors ok now my car use 3 wire temp. sensor but 3.5 use 2 wire n so does the impala harness it should work fine right? n im very excited cause i do believe tht im going be first to swap in Lx9 into buick century but let me kn please also i already got the Lx5 throttle body n im using the 3.5 upper still but im modify the fuel reg. bracket
  23. 1. The biggest issue is that occasionally it just won't start. It will act like it's going to turn over, then it won't, or it will start, runs the rpm's really low and die. If I sit for about 45 minutes, it will just start out of the blue. The mechanic says he thinks it's the fuel pump, but he can't get it to repeat the issue anytime he has it in the shop. I have found if I keep the gas tank over 1/2 full it doesn't do it. 2. Today I had a 2nd key made for the car. I went to make sure it worked, it wouldn't start the car. (I've never had this problem with a store made key.} I started the car with my factory key, it started right up. I shut it off, used the store made key & it started right up but the Security Light came on & stayed on the entire way home. About 2 miles. When I got home I shut it off, turned it right back on with the store made key, Security Light still on. Not even 10 minutes later my daughter went to leave with the store bought key & it wouldn't work. Has anyone ever had this happen? I have never seen the Security Light come on, let alone stay on, nor had a store made key not work. Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. Anyone know the best way to clean your headlight covers? Mine are getting pretty nasty & making it hard to see at night. Thanks again, Jennie.
  24. Hi everyone I'm new here. This is my second lumina my old one was a 96 ls. Now I have a 95 base and I want the tach back. My local jy doesn't have any but my friend has a police cluster. I've been reading the posts and I was looking for a pinout so I can hook the vss, power, and ground or were to solder it to the board but everywhere I look at the pictures are gone. Also my friend can't remember what year it came out of so I might have a fuel problem if I do is there anyway to get it to work.
  25. As many of you, whom have already meet me know I’m from Angola, NY. I’ve been hesitant to attempt hosting a meet, but after some positive feedback in Erie, I’m going to at least try in 2015. For those whom aren’t familiar with Angola it’s uniquely situated like an island in the middle of the E/B and W/B lanes of I-90. Aside from service vehicles it’s virtually inaccessible by road, you have to park on either side of the highway and then there’s a long pedestrian bridge on either side that’s full enclosed that you have to walk through to get to the Travel Center (the heart of Angola). Ideally we’re looking at the weekend of May 8th-10th for the meet. For simplicity and pictures. We should all meet in the Westbound parking lot. You need to go past the Travel Center, and get off at the next exit (57A Angola/Eden) and immediately get back onto the NY Thru way going in the opposite direction. Yes, this involves surrendering and then obtaining a toll card, if you do a U-Turn and do not have the appropriate card you will get charged even more tolls than you would otherwise and you will also be delayed. Everyone going through Erie (for example Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Toledo, etc) will need to go to the meet in this manner, it may sound confusing, but you’ll get home quicker if you do things this way. There’s a Sunoco gas station on site (both sides) and once you walk across the bridges to Angola, there’s McDonalds, LavAzza, Moe’s Southwest Grill, Auntie Anne’s, Cinnabon and McDonald’s is open 24 hours a day!! Loads of sitting room. Wifi access is limited to 30 minutes or so, and plenty of bathrooms. Entertainment: I’m used to it since I live there, but this place (I’m told) is 100% non-stop excitement if you haven’t been there before. You can visit the Eastbound parking lot and twin Sunoco, the trucks look as if they are going to crash into you on the bridges, and I’m hoping that we could have a few photographers like maybe Eric, Rich and Lizzie take some neat passing shots from the bridges with us all parading under. We’re a ways out, but I’d consider a group trip to “Gay Road†if there’s interest. Accomodations: My place is obviously a little too small for this kind of thing, and I can’t really get close to accommodating everyone. I’ve been in contact with Galen and he can rent & fuel a climate controlled trailer for about $700 a day. (Climate controlled is heated only) which is why we’d have to have the meet so early because otherwise it could get pretty hot in those things! So if there was 10 people at the meet it would be $140, there would be some outlets in the trailer, but most of the time we’d be outside partying at the picnic area or inside Angola. You’d have to bring your own air mattress and/or sleeping bag. Questions?? Everyone asks me if I can get discounts at any of the restaurants inside the travel plaza. No, I cannot, you have to actually work for those places to get the discounts, and even then, they only apply to you. Just because I live in the Travel plaza, doesn’t mean that I somehow automatically work there, I have another job that’s not fast food. Do you have to walk all of the way to the Travel Plaza on the highway median to get food?? Not really, there’s rotundas out by the parking lot and there’s vending machines there with snacks & drinks. The real advantage to getting drinks inside and walking the walk is that you can buy one cup from McDonald’s put your name on it and go back for free refills all weekend long. I guess that I’m putting this thread out there to generate ideas and for those are considering going to ask questions.
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