Fmr12B Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 1995 Cutlass Supreme Convertible Tools needed: Drill 3/16" drill bit phillips screwdriver flat tip screwdriver small head soldering gun electrical tape Drmel w/ cutting bit knife or razor blade needle nosed pliers Wire crimpers/strippers 7mm socket & ratchet Optional: Polk DX3055 5 1/4" Component Speakers Step 1 - Door Panel Removal Step 2- Speaker removal 2-wire harnesses need to be unplugged in order to remove the factory speaker. Speaker is held in place by 4-7mm bolts. Speaker mount is held in place by 4-phillips screws. Step 3 - New Speaker Install Depending on the speaker you install, the speaker mount may need to be modified. Bottom may need to be cut out and a place for the wiring terminal may need holed out as well. Tip: remove the foam where you plan on cutting, The bit does not like foam one bit! Step 4 - Speaker Wiring 2-choices here. You can alter the factory wiring to suit your needs or you can run new speaker wire. I altered the factory wiring by using the factory harness + a connector off the factory speaker. Step 5 - Mounting Crossover Find a flat place that does not interfere with the door panel when mounted. Mark holes and drill pilot holes Step 6 - Wiring the Crossover Step 7 - Removing the Tweeter Tweeter is held in place by 4-lock washer type devices. Tweeter door grille and mount is held in by 3-lock washer type devices. Easiest way to remove is by just remvoing the 3 lower lock washers. Tip: Use a small flat screwdriver to pry and lift and hopefully break these in half, if they wont break then grab em and twist until the lock washers break in half by using needle nosed pliers: Step 8 - Tweeter Install Use your supplied Tweeter mounting ring as your going to flush mount these. Hopefully your Ring will install in the factory supllied hole in the door. If not, back to the dremel and you will need to enlarge your hole until your mount ring will fit. Step 9 - Tweeter Wiring Knowing I plan on removing my door-panel as I plan to add an additional amplifier to my system plus some Dynamat. I wanted to add some addtional wiring so that I never rip my wiring apart. Step 10 - Test to ensure your speakers work! Step 11 - Replace your door panel Wow, do these speakers sound great! Much better all around than the 10yr old factory POS's! These have a 13.5oz magnet so they are decently sized speakers. I plan on amping these but that is for another weekend when I have more time. Either a 4x 45W RMS MTX or a 4x 65W RMS Bazooka amp mated to a either a 8" or 10" Kicker substation will get these set-up where I want it. Yes, I have way too much car stereo crap laying around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 Personally, I wouldn't mount the crossover in the door, but that is my personal opinion. My reason behind it- the door slamming shut all the time isn't exactly good on something like that. Otherwise, looks pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 There wasn't a good spot in the door of my Regal to mount the crossovers, so I mounted them under the dash. Now if you guys want MANLY sound, then do what I did and ditch those wimpy 5 1/4's and go with 6 1/2's! You'll have to fab up new mounts, but that's not hard to do at all. I recommend that anyone who runs components in their doors run all new speaker wire (use 16 ga versus the stock 18 ga) especially since you should be amplifying them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 Nice! 8) I like how it turned out with the carpet there. I got the x-over near the mirror by the hinge in that area. But I run the tweeter wire back up to the dash where the tweeters mount unseen. I have been favoring the countersink method lately. First I mount the speaker on a MDF plate then I make another ring of 1/2 inch MDF that fits over/ around the speaker and contour it with a belt sander. I liked the way it turned out with no grill to get dented up and your foot doesnt drag across the speaker foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puggsley456 Posted November 1, 2005 Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 I had to cut my door panels to accept my components...! As my 94 doestn have door speakers. But I also found that the sail pannel right beside the door mirrors make a good place for the tweeter mounting. As the hole for the power mirror wires will give you a little extra room for mounting the tweeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted November 1, 2005 Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 Nice clean looking install!! I definatly plan on getting components as well. However I want to mount the tweeter up high somewhere, possibly in the A-pillar haven't really figured that out yet. I just know I hate how the stock speakers are right where your leg is on my car. For a seperate mid/tweeter combo factory speakers sure do suck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96GranSport Posted November 2, 2005 Report Share Posted November 2, 2005 There wasn't a good spot in the door of my Regal to mount the crossovers, so I mounted them under the dash. Now if you guys want MANLY sound, then do what I did and ditch those wimpy 5 1/4's and go with 6 1/2's! You'll have to fab up new mounts, but that's not hard to do at all. I recommend that anyone who runs components in their doors run all new speaker wire (use 16 ga versus the stock 18 ga) especially since you should be amplifying them... Thanx for that info DiscoStudd...I've got a 96 Regal that I want to install seperates in and was hoping to be able to go with the 6 1/2's. Hopefully I'll be able to do that before the end of the year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted November 2, 2005 Report Share Posted November 2, 2005 They'll fit right under the stock grilles without any mods, also! I made my plates by tracing out the stock "bucket" and adding a bit more space to the top for the tweeter to fit on the plate. I actually drilled a hole in the sheet metal to mount the tweeter directly to the door frame (screwed in from behind.) If you want to see more pics, CLICK HERE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
servoalt Posted November 2, 2005 Report Share Posted November 2, 2005 THANK GOD!!! I just bought a 5.25 Infinity Kappa Component Set for my 95 CS SL w/ factory tweets. This is going to help me soo much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted November 2, 2005 Report Share Posted November 2, 2005 Nice clean looking install!! I definatly plan on getting components as well. However I want to mount the tweeter up high somewhere, possibly in the A-pillar haven't really figured that out yet. I just know I hate how the stock speakers are right where your leg is on my car. For a seperate mid/tweeter combo factory speakers sure do suck! I hate the stock speaker placement on the '94-'96 (and some earlier models). I usually put my leg right in front of the thing, blocking it completely. And if I want to blast something that's got a lot of high range, it blasts right into my right ear and kills it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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