visageiii Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 Hi, I just bought a 91 z34 to replace one that had been totaled in a car wreck, (too many new parts to bother with a different car) and when I brought it back from new york I started replacing some of the things that it needed. It didn't run too well to begin with and I just prayed it got me home, with luck it did... anyway here is a list of some of the problems I have already dealt with. Car alarm, the installation was all jacked up, so I got rid of the sucker. Tach doesn't work. It doesn't even move unless you are really revn' the engine, and then it doesn't go higher than 500, (500 not 5000). Cat converter is bad, sounds like a bunch of rocks just rattling around under my car, sounds like shit. Don't get me started on the stereo installation, I had to fix that too. So what I am wondering is, these error codes were constant on the chip I got with FFP. (Ben I tried calling FFP today, but I got no answer around 2pm, do you guys still accept phone calls from the website number?) and they don't show up with the original chip until I put the reader on the car. Would the bad CAT cause both of these codes? or would it cause one of them and something else cause the other one? I think one may be related to my TACH, but how the heck do I check that out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 I think code 41 and 43 have to do with the ECM and the knock sensor circuit. The fixes usually are a new knock sensor, or Mem-cal. The guy that know makes the chips is Vegeta on this site, pm him, or head over to http://www.60v6.com that's his site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 you mean http://www.60degreev6.com A 43 is a bad knock sensor, and it will cause your car to run REALLY bad and make very little power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 you mean http://www.60degreev6.com Wink Aaron, it still redirects you to the site, check it out. It's easier than typing it all in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegeta Posted November 28, 2004 Report Share Posted November 28, 2004 I don't sell the chips through FFP anymore and I take care of all issues direct. Im a bit confused though, the chips don't usually just go bad all of a sudden (which is the same with all GM chips, very rare). Cylinder select is wrong, so it does sound like the memcal is bad. How long have you had this chip and are you the original buyer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted November 28, 2004 Report Share Posted November 28, 2004 I didn't know that worked. I hit it once and it said page not available. But it did just now work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveFromColorado Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 code 41 comes back as a "cylinder select error" this can be from - EST (Electronic Spark Timing) circuit failure - no distributor pulses OR cylinder select error OR Tachometer input error and code 43 comes back as - TPS (Throttle position sensor) out of adjustment OR knock sensor signal error OR low voltage at electronic spark timing control. but that's if you're gonna go over ALL The wiring to find your problem. but these errors would also explain your tachometer not working. --Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 Doesn't the tach get a signal or something from the ICM? I'd say check the Knock sensor to make sure the connector hasn't crumbled off (that's what was wrong when I had a 43, bought a new part and everything ) and get a new ICM and coilpacks. Get a known good one from a junkyard, they're like $40 at most there, and test it at Autozone. That may solve your problem, at least that's what I'd start with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveFromColorado Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 I agree with GP there.. I'd start with inspecting the wiring, from BOTH circuts before getting any new parts. if you've got a bad wire, new parts won't help it at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darksyde Posted December 6, 2004 Report Share Posted December 6, 2004 Ok my engine light has started to come on in my 91 Z34 and i'm getting a code 43. But i thought 43 was the ESC (Electronic Spark Control Circuit) Thats whats 43 is in most late 80's and early 90's GM's. My car doesn't seem to be doing anything wrong. But this all happened after i hit a large puddle. So who knows. But i did clear the code today and it came back in about 2 minutes worth of driving..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted December 6, 2004 Report Share Posted December 6, 2004 Ok my engine light has started to come on in my 91 Z34 and i'm getting a code 43. But i thought 43 was the ESC (Electronic Spark Control Circuit) Thats whats 43 is in most late 80's and early 90's GM's. My car doesn't seem to be doing anything wrong. But this all happened after i hit a large puddle. So who knows. But i did clear the code today and it came back in about 2 minutes worth of driving..... Replace your knock sensor, but after a while the ECM, will retard the timing so much that you'll lose a shit load of power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darksyde Posted December 6, 2004 Report Share Posted December 6, 2004 Replace your knock sensor, but after a while the ECM, will retard the timing so much that you'll lose a shit load of power. Ok replace knock sensor, check.......but are you then sayin that the ECM will still retard the timing? Am I reading this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfut Posted December 6, 2004 Report Share Posted December 6, 2004 OK, I too bought a car that had been abused- but I had similar problems. What was the cause of mine was the wiring from the crank sensor to the Dist Module had been put out of place during a half ass intake job .... and it was burnt. Chreck that first, also make sure that the wiring around the intake and by the large connector to the firewall are not broken. Fut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted December 6, 2004 Report Share Posted December 6, 2004 Replace your knock sensor, but after a while the ECM, will retard the timing so much that you'll lose a shit load of power. Ok replace knock sensor, check.......but are you then sayin that the ECM will still retard the timing? Am I reading this right? Yes, your computer will retard the timing 13* I believe, don't quote me. The car will still be drivable. The only thing I had to do was put a small spacer (read: piece of tape folded over) on the throttle screw to raise the idle some, because the car would stall incessantly unless it was there. When I went to test drive this car, it drove fine and idled a little strange, but I figured it was just old gas or something. I get back to the dealer and notice a cigarette butt smashed between the throttle and the throttle screw, and remove it. Next day I go to pick the car up, and it's stalling like crazy. After I put the tape in there, it did fine, and yes I did try an idle relearn. Now that I've replaced the knock sensor, it idles just fine. DON'T GO BUY A NEW KNOCK SENSOR UNTIL YOU CHECK THE CONNECTOR. The connector is made of plastic, and when I went to replace my knock sensor, I found the connector dangling back there half broken, and if I hadn't bought a new part, I'm willing to wager I could have just replaced the connector like I did and used the old one. I just had spent $40 at Autozone and didn't feel like taking it back. If you can't get to fixing it, don't worry too much about it. If it stalls, just use tape like I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted December 6, 2004 Report Share Posted December 6, 2004 Yes the connector on the knock sensor is a pretty shitty one, so definately check that. This is what a bad knock sensor will do. Since it is not reading a signal, it will retard your timing all of the way(for safety of the motor). Mine would still idle, and start fine(It took it a couple seconds to start, but it still would). Also, I lost power. A lot of power. A lot of power. A way lot of power. Like it still had the same power curve, just moved down about 150hp. It took the car forever to get through 2nd, and it couldn't even redline 3rd. I got beat by a 2.8L CARBED Firebird, with a 3-speed!!! I got a 43, and changed the plugs, my Magnecor wires(they went right back on), the ignition, all 3 coils, etc. Nothing. THen the knock sensor. Turned the car back on, and holy shit it hauled ASS!!!!!! And no more SES light! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
visageiii Posted December 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2004 Okay, I replaced my Knock sensor, and tested the wire, both are good now. now my problems have moved to the icm, car gets gas, car doesn't fire, car has new gaskets (upper and lower) new plug wires, etc. I'll update as soon as I get the new ICM. (I don't think it would be a single coil pack, because nothing fires.) oh, and add code 15, and 42. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted December 12, 2004 Report Share Posted December 12, 2004 15 is the code saying you're in the diagnostic mode, it'll always be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted December 13, 2004 Report Share Posted December 13, 2004 Okay, I replaced my Knock sensor, and tested the wire, both are good now. Good! Glad to be able to help somehow, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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