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Final update for the job; yup, finished off the other side in no time at all. Took the car on the highway and at first wasn’t sure what to think but by the end of the ride the difference/improvement was apparent. I hear there may be some break in time also. The rear end has a slightly more aggressive and attractive stance than before (sorry, a bit dark by the time I snapped photo). I think having done this now makes it more obvious that the front struts need doing too! Got those too but need to figure out the special tool situation. Suppose it’s possible the rear leaf spring or its bushings might need attention too (looked ok anyways) but will see what happens now when I get some extra weight in the car. Forums like this are definitely invaluable and always will be!

Torque converter clutches cause stalling at very low speed, like when the car comes to a stop. Which is why they're always disabled in first gear. They do NOT cause stalling at highway speed like you described. The trans will run hot when the converter clutch is NOT locked up, because most of the heat in a transmission is created by the fluid in the torque converter getting churned around until the molecules get dizzy. When the converter clutch is engaged, the fluid isn't being churned--so there's little heat generated. Disabling the torque converter clutch was a TERRIBLE idea. Do not go back to the boneheads that did that unless you can get them to pay damages. (Not likely.) Wouldn't surprise me that the trans has internal failure(s) that will require removal, disassembly, and inspection; with failed parts getting replaced. Among the things I'd be looking at on the scan tool, would be the idle speed control's ability to actually control idle speed. There may be a way to determine if the PS pressure switch is working properly, too.