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Over this past weekend I was re-united with my teal colored 1994 Cutlass Supreme I bought new. I gave it to my dad in 2012 and my brother got it in 2018. My Dad passed away last month and my brother decided he didn't want to look at it anymore, I get that. As I'm the original owner it has different meanings to me. It's got 90,000 miles on it (my Dad put 3000 miles on it in 6 years and my brother logged in 10,000 in 15 months). I plan on using it to drive to work 3 to 5 days in order to keep the mileage off my white 1996 CS which I'll use for long trips. The first thing it needs BADLY is a new O2 sensor, then a close 2nd is brakes, they are so bad I have to downshift all the way to 1st to get the car stopped. New Struts will follow and this will include the Rear Strut Tower Brace I got from this site from AWEB80 (I think I got his last one).The factory FTB I had my brother put on the front that only came on the convertibles stays put. If all this works out mechanically I plan to get it re-painted. My dad let the car sit for months on end facing the same way and the paint on drivers side of the car is noticeably more tired than the passengers side. Anyone have any thoughts on using MAACO to paint the car? It needs virtually no body work, no rust and it's never been in an accident. It looks like the Maaco premium they offer might be good. This is not a high value classic car so it simply is not worth dumping big money into a paint job. My biggest concern is whether they can adequately match the code 43 Bright Aqua Metallic paint that's original to the car. Not looking to spend a fortune on a car that's worth $2000.

Great video on replacement, I went threw this same process last year and it was a challenge for sure but I did pull the belt towards the front after finding that I couldn't get enough room for my hands to pull tension in the rear . I had no problem with the new tensioner on mine fitting the bracket but that is something to keep in mind for the next one if I encounter that problem ... Once again nice job thought I would drop a few pics of my mess also ...oh by the way mine is a 1993 lumina z34

Maaco's level of quality 150% comes down to the prep. If you pick the cheapest, they will literally just mask off the glass and lamps and spray right over the old paint and everything else. If the car is prepped properly (e.g. you pay a bunch more) their paint jobs are fine.

Conrgrats on getting the car back, sorry about your father passing away. Paint jobs are all about prep. Everything I've heard about MAACO is location dependent, and specifically dependent on the individual doing the work, so its really hard to judge MAACO jobs. High quality paint jobs are very expensive, so you get what you pay for. If it was for a car I was going to keep, and didn't want to put a lot of money into, I wouldn't have a problem with it, as long as I know going in, you get what you pay for. IMO its worth a try, but I think I'd start looking at junkyards, specifically car-parts.com just to see if there are the parts you need within a reasonable distance, that might not need painted. Never know if there is something out there in a jy, that was garage kept, or at least cleaned and waxed regularly that might have the right color (and a bit faded too, in order to match).

I only change what is needed when needed , car still runs like new 92,000 miles on it had this baby since day one had 3 miles on it when i bought it I will have to dig up some pics to post for you

looks great. My brother had the whole set with the MC and the 5th wheel. 5th wheel: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/brickyard-400-official-pace-car-1801470275 Suburban: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-CHEVY-SUBURBAN-BRICKYARD-400-DIECAST-PROMO-MODEL-BROOKFIELD-MODELS-/333437515780

Great video. Been anguishing over this job but video convinced me I can do it. Shop estimated $400 in labor to do it. I’m all over it now. Question. Would it not be a bit easier to route the belt over the back pulleys first? More room to fight it on the front pulleys.

You helped me out big time 2 years ago when i changed my belt and components on my 95 vert. Just want to say thanks again and also great video. Thumbs up my man.

That's it in a nutshell, accurate cam timing is dependent on the condition of the timing chain, the chain will wear/stretch over time, the longer the engine (for example...original parts) has been in use the more wear the chain will see. It's possible for an extremely worn chain (under just the right circumstances) to jump a tooth on the crank gear. The attached pic is an example of a well worn chain. Pull up the tension on one side & the opposite is extremely loose.