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I got your list just in case an Aztek might be there. If anything, extra parts are always nice to have.

They came in the High End optioned Pontiac 6000 STE AWD/SE AWD, 1990 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prixs, Pontiac Bonneville SSE/SSEi, and the Pontiac GTA (I think 90 and 91). Internally, to me, they are built just like the tape deck, but with a CD drive Mechanism. I rebuilt one a few years ago from the face plate and CD drive of this style radio, and the case and internals from a 5 band tape deck. The CD drive is not the failure point, in my experience, its a real small sensor that reads whether a CD has been inserted into the mechanism. It sits right at the mouth, and is a real pain to change.

Does the VFD (clock) dim properly on that model when you dim the interior lights? I'm just curious because I know GM used pulse width modulation to dim the VFDs in the W-bodies. If you put a radio in with a rheostat dimming circuit for the clock display, it will blink at varying rates depending on the intensity of the interior dimming. That radio looks like it came from a Firebird or maybe a Bonneville, that's why I ask.

5 philips screws in the bezel around the radio and cluster remove 2 defroster grills remove 2 7mm in defroster remove 1 7mm to the left of the cluster remove 1 7m to the right of the radio open glove box remove glove box insert remove 2 7mm in glove box remove 2 7mm from radio close glove box lid remove and unplug radio tilt steering wheel all the way down lift dash pad out. IF car has HUD, remove 2 bolts from HUD from under dash pad near cluster, remove HUD and unplug wiring and adjuster cable. This is off memory, but I've had the dash out so many times I lost count. If it's really stuck, you've missed some bolts, but it may take a little bit of force to get everything moving, but it'll come out.

She's back on the road! After a long winter of fighting rusty bolts, I finally got her back together yesterday. I carefully drove her around the block once, and she seemed to drive and shift fine. I haven't noticed any leaks from the transmission or the brake lines. I'll try a longer drive tonight after work and see how it goes. Parts replaced: Passenger side only: Axle. Both sides: Control arms, tie rods (inner and outer), ball joints, flex brake lines. Parts saved: Fender (I straightened the bent lip). Wheel well trim and lower cladding were slightly damaged but I reinstalled them. TBD: Passenger front tire and hub. The tire held air all winter, but I need to drive at higher speeds and go around corners to evaluate the hub and tire. Total cost: About $400 including tools. Time spent: I don't want to think about it, probably 50+ hours if you count watching videos and buying tools. It doesn't sound like much, but I found ways to make the project take forever. It was my first time doing any of these jobs on any car, so it was a slow learning curve to figure out what technique to use. I often would only have two or three hours a week to work on it, so it dragged on and on. I tried to save money by using the wrong tool for the job a few times, which just ended up with wasted time and frustration until I would give up and drive to the store and buy the right tool. Once I had the right tool and the right technique, each job wasn't bad. Moral of the story: Buy the right tool!

Not sure, I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow, they just got in a 2003. The just crushed both LQ1 cars they had.