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Almost every one here is going to disagree with this but here goes. Whatever trans fluid your car came with stay with that fluid because the clutch packs were set up for that fluid. If your car came with dex 3 stay with dex 3 especially if your transmission is having problems. GM no longer sells dex-3 but sells and licenses the sale of dex-6, which is synthetic and is thinner and slicker than dex-3. Maxlife is also a synthetic trans fluid. You can still buy dex-3 but companies like Castrol can no longer use the name dex-3 so they have to call it dex/merk.or MD-3. When I charged out the maxlife I used Havoline MD-3 trans fluid, which looks smells and feels like dex-3.

If you melt-out the rubber bushing from the outer shell, there's ZERO danger of distorting the control arm, and there's no need for special tooling or a press. The original shell is re-used. Yes, you'd need to figure out a method to determine the angle the front wheels are turned to get the caster function of a magnetic gauge to work. Don't forget that you'll also need the rim adapters to stick the magnetic gauge to, and all the inexpensive ones are junk because they have no method to adjust for wheel runout.

If I may make a few suggestions (this might sound like a broken record) on transeversely mounted V6's- they never sound quite right like let's say a Nissan 350z ( ). The problem is not in the mufflers, cats or resonators. The problem comes from the front 3 cylinders having longer tubing than the rear 3 cylinders (unequal length header). No matter what you do after the headers you always end up with the same annoying V6 raspy gurgle. How do you fix that? Make a block off plate for the rear header (where the downpipe comes out) and have the crossover pipe reworked so the exhaust exits at the center of the engine, making the front and rear cylinders to have equal length pipe before they merge into one pipe (will look like a turbo crossover pipe minus the turbo). Then you need to make a downpipe that connects back to you stock exhaust and the car will sound amazing, even with the rest of the exhaust being stock. Only then you can start experimenting with mufflers and tune the loudness of it. Currently my turbo L67 has perfectly even length secondaries and all I have is a single glasspack on a totally straight pipe. The sound is deep, nicely reverberating into resonance between 2200-2800RPM. I will post a sound clip soon so you can see what I'm talking about. So from a sound point of view it's relatively cheap to mod the header and have a very nicely sounding car, no matter if it's a 3100, DOHC, 3800 or anything in between. Equal length secondaries holds the key.