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I just picked up a 93 vert last fall. I owned a 90 coupe as my first car back in highschool over 20 years ago. I've always wanted a convertible version since I first saw one. Now I do. lol She has a little damage from the previous owner which I've almost got all fixed but she's rust free with only 89k on the clock. The only pic i have right now is from the day I got her.

Supposedly you can gain a bit of power on the top end due to the intake being better designed. The downside is its a major pain in the ass to pull off properly, and even then it doesn't really fit the earlier engines well. not worth the trouble in my opinion.

I've broken a rod end on the driver's side hydraulic ram for the convertible top. It broke off cleanly at the end of the shaft, saving the threads, but the "collar" still remains on the rod end. Any good tricks on how to screw this off without really messing stuff up? There's not much room to work...and I'd rather avoid tearing the interior panels off if I can avoid it. Thanks!

Working on this very car and searched up this thread for that SR P/N. Same thing happened on the passenger side and Ive about convinced myself I can replace the top and parts instead of a shop. Before that I want to disassemble and repaint/coat the frame pieces and go the extra mile a shop wouldnt. Can`t wait to get her back on the road and towards Pensacola, a convertible`s natural habitat!

not sure how i missed this before, but nice grab!

Glad you got this TGP! It is really clean looking. I'll take a look for a grill. I used to have one.

I finally did this repair myself last night. I thought it was funny that we were talking about this 10 years ago! Summit still sells the same part with the same part number. Thank you so much for figuring this out and sharing how you did it, it saved me a bunch of time and money. I left my cylinder attached to the car to do the repair. I struggled with getting the broken end off the cylinder rod for a little while before I realized that I could move the rod end up and down into a better position by latching the convertible top in the up position, and just pushing the "up" and "down" buttons. I know this seems obvious, but I never push the up and down buttons with the top latched and didn't think of it until I watched a youtube video. The good cylinder on the other side is held in place and the hydraulic pressure change just moves the cylinder with the broken end up and down. I put a pair of vice grips wrapped with cardboard on the shaft and the broken end spun off easily with another pair of pliers. I used locktite on the new heim joint, because you can't tighten it very well and have it still lined with with the bracket. I also was careful to not drop the nut down into the body, as I'd read about a guy on w-body doing that in another thread. I just want to say I love this forum so much, my car broke and I fixed it for $5. A body shop would have probably charged me a bazillion dollars for a whole new cylinder assembly and labor.

Finally got this fixed. On my way down through Georgia, just south of Atlanta is a Summit Racing Equipment store. They had the rod ends. Mild steel, rated at over 9,000 pounds. They're a bit meatier than the originals, but fit just fine. You'll have to discard the plastic bushings used on the original rod end, these have metal spherical inserts, rather than a large hole for a plastic bushing. Be sure to use Locktite on the threads, as the cylinder rod can rotate, and over time loosen the rod ends. 3/8-24 female thread for the cylinder rod, 3/8 hole for the top bolt. Summit Racing Equipment Part # SUM-MSF6 Cost $4.88 each