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Good evening all! Jeremy here. New to the group but been lurking for 13 yrs now. Had a 94 z34 from 2011-12. Ex wife killed that. Just got a 93 cutlass coupe convertible a few days ago. Needs a bit of work but nothing crazy. Torch red pretty thing. I'll do my best with updates and pics as work progresses on the old girl. Couldn't be happier to be a w body owner again

Welcome. I haven't been on here very long and have only a few posts. My wife has a very similar car except hers is a 95 with only 27,000 miles. I found the thread on here about replacing the rear window weatherstrips. They are no longer available and the thread shows how to use 4th generation Camaro door weatherstrips. Excellent article. It looks like somebody has painted your brake calipers red. I did the same thing to my wife's car last year when I replaced the pads. These are really fun cars. Enjoy yours.

Wonderful info guys! Truly...thank you! I just bought a 93 olds Cutlass with 108k mi. Confirmed for sure needs a timing belt. All of your info will come in handy guaranteed. Also doing plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, upper and lower intake gaskets, and whatever else comes up in the process. Again, thank you all so much! Pics to come

and to Pontiac's. Picked up an '02 Grand Prix SE for the missus. 116K miles and I've already replaced the intake gaskets. Anything else to look out for?

I just put a brand new one of those on the International. Thankfully, the area on the truck floor is super solid with factory paint still there. Of course it being an Oklahoma car is probably helping tremendously.

Nice ride, Ive got a white `95 Vert thats been a project for awhile now. They`re great cars but the Verts and the DOHC engine both have unique parts no longer in production so they have to be maintained. There's several places coolant can get to leaking from, few are easy to get to. They can even get to leaking coolant from a plug inside the bellhousing. One thing Ive encountered on mine and seen on several junkyard cars is the antenna mast seal on those can go bad, leak into the trunk and rust from the inside out just over the rear wheel wheel. You might check behind ya`lls trunk liner to check every now and then.

She's not without problems. Verified timing belt shredding itself, active coolant leak (unsure of location now), a 2in tear in the top, cut in the driver side weatherstrip above the window, and a problem with the seal at the driver side windshield where the top meets. The last two let water in. Rain all day yesterday verified the leaks. I don't have a garage so I bought a car cover. But coming from Chicago I haven't found rust anywhere. And she's 30 years old now. Perfect is hard to find at a reasonable price with lower miles.

Welcome to the site! Your car looks to be in good condition.

My personal choice for cracked urethane plastic repairs or the like is Norton's Speedgrip Structural urethane adhesive, it's on the expensive side but it works well.

Schurkey is almost completely right but you need a small flatblade screwdriver to wind it back in is all. My main concern is once I need one next its going to be figuring out how to rebuild one or adapt something to fit as I've had more then a few fail in my time. Just a point of interest not that this anything to do with anything but I've done more LQ1 timing belts then most people and NOT ONCE have I actually gotten oil out of a tensioner. when I serviced the belt. I always put some back in... just thought it an interesting thing to point out.

The process is well-described in the service manual. I haven't done this in probably ten years. Going from memory... Remove tensioner from the engine. There's a rubber plug on the tensioner body. You remove the rubber plug, drain the old oil out of it, then refill with fresh synthetic oil of the proper viscosity--might be 5W-30, I don't remember for sure. The plug either has a tiny hole in it, or you PUT a tiny hole in it. The tensioner plunger is wound back into the main body with a wrench. You hold the plunger in place while cramming a wire into the main body through the rubber plug which locks the plunger--otherwise it just unwinds again under spring tension. When the belt is back on, tensioner reinstalled--you pull the wire out, which releases the plunger and tensions the belt. Confirm with the actual service manual. Point is, it's not hard at all to reset the oil-filled (but not "hydraulic") tensioner.