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The best bet is 98/99 Lumina LTZ/Monte Carlo Z34 with the 3.8. Grab all the lines in the engine bay off one of those cars, 6-7 yrs ago I bought the hardlines that connect to the firewall directly from GM. Wonder if you could do the same? I also believe that lumina Z34's have same lines that can work, but I cannot confirm this.

That would make sense. Those speakers arrive later today, I will get them in and hopefully I'll get some good results. Just looking for something that works well, nothing more than that.

I have an L67 swap in my 92 Cutlass, which I never bothered to hook up any of the A/C for. I want to do that now and am in the process of collecting parts, but I've found conflicting information on what lines are needed from what cars. I have all the original lines from the 3.1 LH0. I should have most of the lines from the 04 Impala SS donor. I think I have some other random lines I may have grabbed from junkyards while working on the swap years ago. Does anybody know for sure what A/C lines will fit?

I checked it out and everything was working correctly as far as the blend doors goes. However, the inlet side of the heater core is cold, but the outlet side is hot? I'll check the coolant level. It's not overheating, but it gets warm. I wasn't getting any heat this time, but I do sometimes.

I recall there was an optional "Audio Bass Control" slider available on the 1st gen cutlass, but I don't know if 94s got it. I'm only speculating as i've never seen it one in person... but i'd venture a guess it involved some sort of bi-amp setup that allowed you to fade the sound towards the front, while maintaining some form of bass output from the woofer portion of the rear 6x9s. That would definitely require separate wiring pairs from the amp to separate out the woofer from the mid/tweeter. The normal coaxial 6x9 would only have a single wiring pair from the HU, with the tweeter portion being tied into the tinsel leads from the woofer portion. Makes me wonder if some cars were pre-wired for it, but ended up feeding both sets of wires with the same signal on cars that didn't come equipped with it?

I've got a correct AM/FM Stereo CD player in this car; not original as it left the factory with the AM/FM Stereo Cassette unit. There is a separate Bass control on the CD player radio but even with 2 of the 4 wires wires pulled it seemed to make no difference in the sound coming out of the speakers. The speakers arrive Wednesday so I'll be finding out in short order if I made the right move in eliminating the unwanted Vibrations. Regarding the Retrosound R-69N, Crutchfield lists this in their description: "The single R-69N 6"x9" speaker is designed for a classic car with only one speaker opening on its dash or rear deck. The woofer features dual voice coils, each one connected to its own tweeter. Your stereo receiver connects to both voice coils, so you get a stereo mix from a single speaker. In effect, you get two 2-way speakers in one frame, for modern sound in your vintage application." This is an interesting concept if there is one speaker in the back, but since I have 2, I'm interested to see how the Infinity speakers sound with 2 of the 4 wires on either side being hooked up. Stay tuned..........

Yeah, that makes it sound even more like the brake lights are the turn signal switch in the column... 1994-2001 Gen 1 and Gen 1.5 Turn Signal Switch Replacement | W-BodyTech Forums But that shifting thing...are you able to turn the key and move the steering wheel? Can you shift out of park with the steering wheel unlocked but with engine off?

Any chance your Cutlass has that separate bass control slider? This might sound like (or be) a stupid question on my part....but were the factory speakers truly a dual voice coil setup, or were they coaxial drivers wired to be run off of an active crossover setup? I ask because all of my Ws have only ever had a single pair of wires driving each rear speaker, including my 92 Cutlass. What my cutlass didn't have was that separate bass control slider. Makes me wonder if those systems used some sort of active crossover and a separate amp to drive the woofer portion of the rear 6x9s separately from the rest of the speakers.

I went through the same issues you did a while ago, except I actually did go with dual coil speakers. I went with Retrosound R-69Ns. They're pretty thin as they're intended to be dashboard speakers, but they sound fine and were better than the speakers I replaced which didn't make any noise at all by that point.

*Dual* coils are common with passive subs, in an arrangement where the amp is driving a pair of them in a stereo setup, they can be wired in a parallel arrangement, series paralleled, both will deliver a different wattage power output depending on what the user is looking for.

Spoke to someone at Crutchfield yesterday, they are dual wired since the factory speakers came with 2 coils. With the speakers these days having only one coil, I will only need to hook up 2 of the 4 leads. The lead I do not use can just be disconnected at the plug (good thing I had the sense to re-wire the leads with plugs instead of not using them). I went for a set of Infinity speakers this time around and I sure do hope they last longer than the prior ones.

dual wired?......as in bi-wired, as in ...separates?

Time for replacement speakers again already! Only 5 years and the ones I bought blew out. Junk. WHat's a problem is the fact these are dual wired, I'm now having a tough time finding anyone who makes that.

I haven't replaced anything yet. TBH, I don't have much motivation right now with it getting dark early and being cold. I'm hoping to look at it Sunday since I'll actually have a whole day to myself (I think)

That gear drive actuator you replaced controls hot to cold blend. There is a vacuum switch behind the glove box that sends vacuum to separate vacuum doors to control what vent the air comes from. That black plastic vacuum line that powers the vacuum doors goes through the fire wall between the master cylinder and the strut tower. This is what the vacuum door controller looks like. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14268801&cc=1021374&pt=7036&jsn=531

I redid all the vacuum lines a little while ago because the turbo PCV wasn't set up properly. Maybe I messed something up. I think the vacuum ball is long gone due to packaging issues, but it was working at one time.

Have you checked the vacuum line that supplys vacuum to the HVAC vacuum switch behind the glove box? On my 96 Regal acid from the battery ate the plastic vacuum line that runs under the battery tray to the vacuum ball. The vacuum ball is under the battery tray up inside the fender. The plastic line that connects the vacuum ball to the vacuum "T" breaks and this causes all HVAC air to blow out of the defrost vents. When this happened to me I replaced the brittle plastic vacuum line under the battery tray with rubber vacuum hose.

You should be able to get at both sides of the heater core...return is at the front of the engine, that long steel piping that follows along the right side frame rail that sweeps upwards to the coolant pump manifold, the inlet side is right beside the brake vacuum booster, a short hose that passes overtop of the master cyl reservoir slipping over the steel supply pipe from the bottom of the thermostat housing.

Sweet, thanks. I'll pull the cover off and check and see if I can feel or laser temp the piping.

Well, defrost is the default direction for all optional failures, as for the heat can you get your hands around the inlet or outlet core piping to feel what the coolant temp is? if the blend door is stuck closed so the inlet air bypasses the core that would deliver what you're presently getting. One can see the actuators if you pull off the instrument panel cover, they are right behind where the glove box is.

Well, now it's only blowing out of the defrost. Fan is working, but I'm not sure about the heat/cold right at this moment.

and now it's working again. I ordered the one I linked to, so I'll probably just replace it anyway.

I used to have heat, but it won't switch from cold anymore. Started intermittent, but now it's permanent. I'm thinking it's the blend door actuator. Any other things it could be besides a vacuum line? Is this the correct one and where is it located? Is it the one to the left of the glove box? I've replaced plenty on GMT800s and 2nd Gen W's. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=85484&cc=1056428&pt=10721&jsn=667&_nck=S9TpZc1fXxr7Xa7yUkP8%2BeVHrLluc6vJvrD2O9wgZs5RffpngaQG8wezeYP9fpHdOn5lato7smAZZ6tajgo%2ByAcvGnlbm7gWQ1k3lUBRwWeEUtTccaRuCow%2FiASFJvfjkuykQzPMOtbz3c9d3dg2Jwa2GXon2nPW456wgqIX0aMxZ6Nc%2B76i78Di5iBUsi33RWIvDIg08cGCapSM%2FcfHfndGUOG3yYrbav%2FLKA2juWh%2FAYpE3fgdKRVTmgyRZ5Lr3LTjS8N8aR7BaphHG3pne8D1vTbj5ru9dMoXwBdelgZ7crUL5rYxZZQYphmOI%2BTe&_nck=S9TpZc1fXxr7Xa7yUkP8%2BeVHrLluc6vJvrD2O9wgZs5RffpngaQG8wezeYP9fpHdOn5lato7smAZZ6tajgo%2ByAcvGnlbm7gWQ1k3lUBRwWeEUtTccaRuCow%2FiASFJvfjkuykQzPMOtbz3c9d3dg2Jwa2GXon2nPW456wgqIX0aMxZ6Nc%2B76i78Di5iBUsi33RWIvDIg08cGCapSM%2FcfHfndGUOG3yYrbav%2FLKA2juWh%2FAYpE3fgdKRVTmgyRZ5Lr3LTjS8N8aR7BaphHG3pne8D1vTbj5ru9dMoXwBdelgZ7crUL5rYxZZQYphmOI%2BTe

Are you absolutely positive thad there are no external brake fluid leaks? I've never heard of and ABS IV master cyl failing in that manner. You could try bleeding it out, if the car only has 35k on it perhaps the fluid has gone bad and needs changed out. the master has a couple bleeders right on it, start there before moving to the wheels. Either way it was a very common master cyl and GM used it for a long time, should be possible to get one at the junkyard yet.

Bueller? Bueller?