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I redid all the vacuum lines a little while ago because the turbo PCV wasn't set up properly. Maybe I messed something up. I think the vacuum ball is long gone due to packaging issues, but it was working at one time.

Have you checked the vacuum line that supplys vacuum to the HVAC vacuum switch behind the glove box? On my 96 Regal acid from the battery ate the plastic vacuum line that runs under the battery tray to the vacuum ball. The vacuum ball is under the battery tray up inside the fender. The plastic line that connects the vacuum ball to the vacuum "T" breaks and this causes all HVAC air to blow out of the defrost vents. When this happened to me I replaced the brittle plastic vacuum line under the battery tray with rubber vacuum hose.

You should be able to get at both sides of the heater core...return is at the front of the engine, that long steel piping that follows along the right side frame rail that sweeps upwards to the coolant pump manifold, the inlet side is right beside the brake vacuum booster, a short hose that passes overtop of the master cyl reservoir slipping over the steel supply pipe from the bottom of the thermostat housing.

Sweet, thanks. I'll pull the cover off and check and see if I can feel or laser temp the piping.

Well, defrost is the default direction for all optional failures, as for the heat can you get your hands around the inlet or outlet core piping to feel what the coolant temp is? if the blend door is stuck closed so the inlet air bypasses the core that would deliver what you're presently getting. One can see the actuators if you pull off the instrument panel cover, they are right behind where the glove box is.

Well, now it's only blowing out of the defrost. Fan is working, but I'm not sure about the heat/cold right at this moment.

and now it's working again. I ordered the one I linked to, so I'll probably just replace it anyway.

I used to have heat, but it won't switch from cold anymore. Started intermittent, but now it's permanent. I'm thinking it's the blend door actuator. Any other things it could be besides a vacuum line? Is this the correct one and where is it located? Is it the one to the left of the glove box? I've replaced plenty on GMT800s and 2nd Gen W's. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=85484&cc=1056428&pt=10721&jsn=667&_nck=S9TpZc1fXxr7Xa7yUkP8%2BeVHrLluc6vJvrD2O9wgZs5RffpngaQG8wezeYP9fpHdOn5lato7smAZZ6tajgo%2ByAcvGnlbm7gWQ1k3lUBRwWeEUtTccaRuCow%2FiASFJvfjkuykQzPMOtbz3c9d3dg2Jwa2GXon2nPW456wgqIX0aMxZ6Nc%2B76i78Di5iBUsi33RWIvDIg08cGCapSM%2FcfHfndGUOG3yYrbav%2FLKA2juWh%2FAYpE3fgdKRVTmgyRZ5Lr3LTjS8N8aR7BaphHG3pne8D1vTbj5ru9dMoXwBdelgZ7crUL5rYxZZQYphmOI%2BTe&_nck=S9TpZc1fXxr7Xa7yUkP8%2BeVHrLluc6vJvrD2O9wgZs5RffpngaQG8wezeYP9fpHdOn5lato7smAZZ6tajgo%2ByAcvGnlbm7gWQ1k3lUBRwWeEUtTccaRuCow%2FiASFJvfjkuykQzPMOtbz3c9d3dg2Jwa2GXon2nPW456wgqIX0aMxZ6Nc%2B76i78Di5iBUsi33RWIvDIg08cGCapSM%2FcfHfndGUOG3yYrbav%2FLKA2juWh%2FAYpE3fgdKRVTmgyRZ5Lr3LTjS8N8aR7BaphHG3pne8D1vTbj5ru9dMoXwBdelgZ7crUL5rYxZZQYphmOI%2BTe

Are you absolutely positive thad there are no external brake fluid leaks? I've never heard of and ABS IV master cyl failing in that manner. You could try bleeding it out, if the car only has 35k on it perhaps the fluid has gone bad and needs changed out. the master has a couple bleeders right on it, start there before moving to the wheels. Either way it was a very common master cyl and GM used it for a long time, should be possible to get one at the junkyard yet.

Bueller? Bueller?

So folks a need a bit of assistance here. I made a post in the past and figured out my Mom's 95 Cutlass Supreme droptop needs a master cylinder. The brakes went to the floor once then they seemed to work, my brother has long since taken all keys to it his house. By the way this car is a garage queen, it has likely about 35,000 miles on it. If it matters it has the 3.4 multicam v6 which I doubt. Will be honest I have not replaced a master cylinder since the early 80's. I am know I will need to bench bleed the master. I have questions I will bullet point to make it easy. 1) What is the best method to try to save the OEM master reservoir? Would prefer to keep the car as OEM look as possible. 2) Directions to bleeding the entire system. I have done so with 70's cars I am just unsure about cars of this vintage with ABS. 3) Anything I have over looked please school me. Details of which wheel to do in order would be great. Any hints of best dia of brake hose to obtain to put in a jar fluid is a huge plus. This will be part of their christmas me making the Olds safe to drive again. What else can you get parents with everything? Manual labor alway works. Thanks in advance for any all advice. Brock9334z

Check where your positive battery cable goes to the fusebox on the drivers side under the hood. It is common for the nut to be loose or the connection to be dirty and cause all sorts of weird electrical issues

I am trying to replace the solenoid in my car with the radio on for a good 30mins, confused about how the solenoid replacements works (see this post). Without getting the solenoid replaced, but finally being able to get the car out of park, I decided to start the car but it won't go. The dash started to flicker and can hear the relay ticking. Weird electronic glitches started to happen, like turning the signal would flicker the radio button lights. Feels like something is shorting out but can't tell and not electronically inclined. After trying to start the car a few more times, the radio wouldn't even come on anymore and I'm left with just relay ticking. I am assuming the battery is dead. Before charging the battery back up and trying again, I am looking for help to understand where the short might come from during my disassembly: - I took off the front console panel with the cigarette cable disconnected - I had to adjust the steering wheel tilt to take out the front console panel out. I know the multi-function switch is already wonky because I am not getting brake lights unless I pull the switch slightly back. Could adjust the wheel tilt cause the multi-function switch to become worst? - I took off the center console, with the two small light bulbs unclipped and shift solenoid switch disconnected - I took out the radio (and maybe because I pulled too hard) found the power copper wiring fraying out. I pushed the radio back in with the wires exposed and maybe it touched some back metal plate and shorted? Beyond that, I don't understand how this process has caused these electronic issues.

I sourced a Dorman 924-980 and according to all the sites is a direct replacement for the 1995 Buick Regal. However, upon closer inspection it doesn't look right at all: Instead, Dorman 924-748 looks more like a direct replacement: Can anyone confirm the right after market part here? Again, Dorman's own site is suggestion the first as the direct fit. And finally, can the solenoid be replaced withing removing the plastic side and overhand covering it?

I honestly don't know if they're low drag or not. I've never seen anything referencing that in SI or anywhere. I did find in the meantime, a thread by Miko K where he uses a 2nd/ 3rd gen MC with a 1" bore and installed it in his Cutlass. The biggest difference being two line outputs instead of 4, but he T'd them on the car to split the 2 channels to feed the 4 corners.

"Bigger" master cylinder bore = less hydraulic advantage. If you have low-drag front calipers, you NEED the OEM three-chamber, step-bore, Quick Take-Up master cylinder. But I don't know if you have low-drag calipers.

The Monte is pretty simple and old school. All the warning lights are just regular 194 light bulbs. So I was just planning on removing the ABS light bulb and the EBCM. I was curious about the MC bore sizes, since bigger would typically be better unless I'm overlooking something.

Since you're already disks, and using the 1st gen booster, I'd grab a 1st gen master cylinder and re-do the lines as needed. Only thing I'm not entirely sure has been ever discussed has been the bore size of the master. I see there is 7/8 and a 15/16 size bore. I'd ensure you're getting the biggest bore for the disks. Otherwise - not sure on tuning or flashing the BCM to de-activate the ABS so you don't have a light on at all times.

What I used for bushings is simple rubber vibration isolator pad material (the pad was approx 12" square), up here we have a *Princess Auto* hardware/automotive supply store, Harbor Freight *might* have something similar, using my table saw I cut the bushings to the same basic shape as the original molded bushing glued to the leaf & removed the material in the inner section to make the *pocket*. One has to do them in two pieces (upper & lower). One can *fine tune* the installed height of the new spring by adjusting the upper bushings thickness, but both bushings have to be no thicker than necessary to allow the spring to go into place & tighten up the lower mounting retainer to let it bottom against the stop. Seeing as the blank leaves are 3" wide (that's wider than the glas leaf in the centre section at the mounting points) I used my 5" angle grinder with a flap wheel to notch small recesses into the edges of the steel where the pads will go to allow the mounting bolts to slide up either side of the leaves up into the subframe member. All of this wasn't difficult, it just took time & patience. If you've never removed the rear leaf without the special spring compressor there is a way to get it out without to much fuss.

VERY much appreciated - and thank you. Do you have any pics from install or how you made the rubber bits (Im guessing both center rubber and end rubber had to be made/cut) Agian, thank you!

Flaring and making lines in no issue. I have benders and a hydraulic flaring tool which makes making lines a breeze. If I have enough line, I'd just bend and reattach, but I may make some unions otherwise. I know GM likes to make oddball thread and line sizes at the MC, so no surprise there.

Being an ABS VI you will have to either re-bend the existing lines at the current ABS module to fit into the 4 ports of the non ABS master or add extensions onto what's there. What's not known is if what is there right now will have the same 4 different line nut fittings that the non ABS master makes use of. Each line nut that goes into the appropriate master port has a different thread pitch & diameter so they could not be mixed up.

Disc all around.

Do you have drums still in the back?

As the title states, I'm looking for any/ all info in regards to the proper master cylinder needed for ABS deletion. I'm only wanting/ needing to do it in order to fit turbocharger piping in the engine bay, and not because of some naive safety circumvention. I am already running a smaller first gen brake booster found on the manual transmission cars if this matters. While searching RockAuto, there seems to be a lot of overlap between the 1st gen W-bodies through 1.5, with and without disc brakes, etc. So, I figured I'd ask the experts since I've seen brake systems discussed here in the past. Thanks!