Guest Posted September 6, 2002 Report Share Posted September 6, 2002 sigh. My cutlass is dead for now. The fuel pump took a crap on me [come to find out the filter was letting stuff into the pump clogging it up and ended up causing it to fry]. Well, i replaced the fuel pump and then it would run for a few seconds, then die. I thought maybe a clogged line. So i checked the fuel pressure when the car was running, the fuel pressure was normal. Thought maybe the ECM needed reset, did that. Thought it was a bad ECM, Replaced the ECM. Now here comes the weird part: After replacing the ECM, It still ran crappy. Something told me to check the Throttle Position Sensor, but since the only test that can be done on it is a polarity test, i did that and it was bad. I replaced it, the car ran fine for about a day. Then it died about 25 miles away so i had to have it towed home. Well, to make this short: It keeps blowing throttle position sensors like candy. Ive put at LEAST 7 new ones in, and they all pop after about a day, if that. Now, what im wondering is if there is an electrical short. As far as i could tell all the wires were fine and not pinched, except theres one section where it runs under the plenum [which i dont want to remove cause its a pain in the @$$]. If need be i can, im just wondering what you guys think could be wrong. This is my daily driver and its been down for about 2 months now ;/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 6, 2002 Report Share Posted September 6, 2002 few things i should have mentioned: its a 90 Cutlass Supreme International [coupe] Engine is a stock 3.1 Multiport F1 And as far as i know the throttle position sensor is NOT adjustable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crc Posted September 6, 2002 Report Share Posted September 6, 2002 Are you getting any codes? The ones to watch for are 21 and 22 for TPS on 3.1L. I've got the same cutty. BTW also check the MAP sensor (codes for it are 33 and 34) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPaganel Posted September 6, 2002 Report Share Posted September 6, 2002 So you test the TPS for continuity and resistance? What do you see? Does it test open or shorted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted September 6, 2002 Report Share Posted September 6, 2002 good luck ninjee hope they shed some light on this problem for you. and i hope you get it fixed soon. Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 6, 2002 Report Share Posted September 6, 2002 Thanks Monty. The TPS tested bad [ran the test last night]. So i replaced it with a new TPS from Napa. Same problem, ran a code check, it said code 33 [map sensor], so i replaced the map sensor. Now it gives a code 12, and from what i believe, code 12 is just more or less saying its testing stuff. The car will start, run fine for about 5 seconds, then start to sputter and finally it dies. It will start again, but it does the same thing. Im at a loss because ive replaced the following: Throttle Position Sensor MAP Sensor ECM [changed the mem-cal & prom from the original ecm to the new one] replaced the O2 sensor replaced the Idle Air Control Valve replaced the fuel pump & fuel pump strainer replaced the fuel filter replaced the fuel pump relay & fyse checked all the fuses for the ecm & the injectors. im really confused because the only things left i could possibly think of is either a bad injector or air intake leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okidedrak Posted September 6, 2002 Report Share Posted September 6, 2002 need a new engine? i got one for sale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 7, 2002 Report Share Posted September 7, 2002 i dont believe there is anything wrong the engine, i believe its something electrical and or a sensor. problem is that im at a loss as to what to do now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 7, 2002 Report Share Posted September 7, 2002 but i might consider it, how much you asking and what kind of engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okidedrak Posted September 7, 2002 Report Share Posted September 7, 2002 2.8 year 88 150k km 90k miles? its on ebay 150$ cause no one bidding..its complete with wiring and stuff and it got the tranny too :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okidedrak Posted September 7, 2002 Report Share Posted September 7, 2002 forgot the ebay link here u go http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1763248420 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 8, 2002 Report Share Posted September 8, 2002 Hi, Ninjee, Does the car only run well when the engine is cold? My brother experienced a similar problem with his '93 Lumina with the 3.1 MFI. His computer wasn't pointing out any codes, but we found that the problem was due to a broken wire to the coolant temperature sensor. Because the computer couldn't get a signal on the temp, it always thought it was cold and wouldn't adjust the mixture correctly when the engine was actually warm. After starting the car cold, it would run fine. After running for a few minutes, it would start to slow down and eventually die. After restarting, it would run for a couple of seconds, then die again. After repairing the wire, all was fine. Hope this is helpful. Good luck Tony Graczyk '94 Olds Cutlass SL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 8, 2002 Report Share Posted September 8, 2002 Ill have to check that wire out. Right now the car wont even run for more than 10 seconds so it never has a chance to warm up. Although if that wire is shorting out it could be causing to lean or to rich of a fuel mixture. Ill have to check it. I was talking to a friend of mine who has a 93 cutlass supreme sl with the same engine, and he said his did that and it turned out to be the injectors, which i really hope it isnt cause injectors are 50 bucks a piece :/. Anyway, thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted September 9, 2002 Report Share Posted September 9, 2002 all depends on if you go the new route or from a salvage yard my man. i forget if it was here or at GMforum.com where there has been talk of some company that will clean and test and such injectors. i thinkthe cost was like 125 and they are good as new. and they have them back in 48 hours or something like that. so alot of ppl buy from a yard and send them there and come back with pretty much new iinjectors at a fraction of the cost. not sure on the details i will see if i can find the thread and put it here. Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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