topless94style Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 How hard are these to change? I dont think the fuel pressure reg will be too bad, along with that i have to change the coolant temp sensor. I went to tires plus today to have my car aligned, the $40 coupon they had in the paper, and they said my left front bearings are bad, and my right front outer tie rod is bad. $495 for the alignment plus the hub and tie rod, so i said screw that ill do it myself. Also, what does it mean when your tranny fluid is burnt? The guy also wrote that he recomends a trany flush, the fluid is burnt. Plus a serp belt needs to be replaced. Time to spend money on my car w00t. FPR = $180 CTS = $9 Serp Belt = ? Tranny Flush = ? According to Tires Plus: Wheel Hub = $199 Tie Rod end = $50 Here stops the modding, and begins the repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaPaPooh Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 go to the parts store get a gasket and filter 20 bucks at the most and change the fluid your self get 6 or so qt. dextron III or higher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted February 21, 2004 Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 round here hubs are $25 at the junkyard and they let you check them yourself before buying. if you can do a brake job on the front, you can change a hub. its 4 more bolts and one nut more than doing pads/rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topless94style Posted February 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 I can do a brake job, so the hub shouldnt be too bad then. I dont exactly know what to look for to tell if a hub or bearings are good or not, so i dont know if i should buy one from a junkyard or not. I have never done a tie rod end, but my trusty manual is here to show me how. So burnt tranny fluid doesnt mean my tranny is going or anything like that? Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmokesGTP Posted February 21, 2004 Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 It means you haven't changed it in a fuck of a long time. It's terrible for the transmission, go smell it yourself and if it has a burnt odor change it, throw in some lucas along with it if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topless94style Posted February 22, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2004 It means you haven't changed it in a fuck of a long time. It's terrible for the transmission, go smell it yourself and if it has a burnt odor change it, throw in some lucas along with it if you want. Thanks for clearing that up for me, I know what im doing tomorrow after work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmokesGTP Posted February 22, 2004 Report Share Posted February 22, 2004 no problem I'm always good for an asshole answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimp19 Posted February 23, 2004 Report Share Posted February 23, 2004 The hub and tie rod are pretty easy. When I took my hub off all I did was take out all 4 nuts in the back and the big one in the front and hit the center with a hammer. The hardest part about the tie rod is getting the old one out, my uncle made a fork out of an old pry bar, it worked pretty good. Make sure your new tie rod ends have greese fittings my old ones didnt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted February 23, 2004 Report Share Posted February 23, 2004 Hub = easy. Pretty much like gpimp says, but I don't recommend hitting the halfshaft with a hammer! :shock: I'm sure it's gotta be in the service manual somewhere that smacking halfshafts with hammers = bad! I used a hub puller I got from JC Whitney a few years ago, works great. Tierod = easy. I used a pitman arm puller. I guess a pickle fork will work since you're trashing the old tierod anyway, but I still think pitman arm puller was easier. Just put it on and use a ratchet to tighten the giant screw and the tierod will pop right out. Pitman arm pullers are about $8. I prefer OEM balljoints and tierods without the grease fittings. I've never had one last less than 12-14 yrs. Just one less thing to have to worry about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimp19 Posted February 23, 2004 Report Share Posted February 23, 2004 I knew hitting the half shaft wasn't a good idea, dont do it that way!!!! The first time I took it off I used my uncles puller, the second time he wasn't around so I had to resort to drastic measures I need to get more tools, so I can do things the right way more often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted February 24, 2004 Report Share Posted February 24, 2004 tierod ends are only 20 bucks, maybe 30 and a hub is 100 at a parts store. BTW, I didn't think you could get OEM tierods and balljoints. How much do they cost? Too bad I just replaced mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted February 24, 2004 Report Share Posted February 24, 2004 I don't know about the outer tierods since I never replaced mine, I just had to pull it to get to the inner tierod. The balljoints I paid $60/each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted February 24, 2004 Report Share Posted February 24, 2004 if you can do a brake job on the front, you can change a hub. werd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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