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95LQ1VERT

95lq1vert's 1994 Cutlass Supreme convertible progress thread

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And you didn't take pictures. Just when i was beginning to think you were a swell guy. 
Lol! I can, I still have the door panel off, but I'm getting ready for work now

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29 minutes ago, 95LQ1VERT said:

Lol! I can, I still have the door panel off, but I'm getting ready for work now

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Haha! Alright, mate. Whenever you get a chance. 

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Did my transmission filter/fluid change last night. I was honestly surprised to see how clean the pan was. The fluid was still red, but had a darker color to it, and I wasn't sure if it had ever been changed in the last 10 years so I went ahead and changed it for preventative maintenance. There was shavings on the magnet, but not much sediment in the pan which I figured was good as I didn't have any issues with shifting or TCC lock. I also went ahead and put Valvoline Maxlife synthetic ATF in since it was a $4 difference. It took a little over 6 quarts of ATF for the pan drop and filter change. After it was done I immediately could tell the difference in shift quality on the first drive. Easy job, a little messy, but worth the time.a5a5e46ecd5294ec56f329dbd88b537e.jpg268833ce85c64b0fa02cb186233a51b9.jpged2eb5bea45935cf7097ece25f40af69.jpg0613e4c0a699d8bf25363886cd29c7b5.jpg

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On ‎9‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 2:50 PM, 95LQ1VERT said:

As requested, first picture of my index finger pointing to the track is where the window/guide came out. Second is the moulding I replaced. 94f30b82c31b9c91e6e4e4a1159eab40.jpgf5c70169240cd66b5478d769b843e63e.jpg

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I was also just working in that area. I found the upper door panel had pulled away from the metal channel at the top from sun exposure and age, and wouldn't stay in place. I bent the black metal channel, by hand, on the door inward about 3/8 of an inch along the whole length, and the top of the door panel held much better in it's proper place. Just FYI.

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Posting a little update. I've had the car driving since August roughly. So far I've put 6k miles on it since I completed my overhaul. The only thing that went wrong was the new radiator cap I purchased from rockauto. The seal was bad and would leak from it, however that has since been fixed. The car will be hitting its 100k milestone today!! Excited to see it!
My plans for 2019 include the following.
1.) Get the mufflers and tips replaced.
2.) Address the fading trim around the convertible top, and the lip spoiler.
3.) Find a nice set of Bonneville GXP wheels for the ole girl.
4.) Clean up the underside of the car and rust proof with light suspension restoration.
5.) Replace the bad interior trim pieces.
6.) Overhaul the sound system. ad438b797f878c0704820ee582cb5756.jpg22b5d4a50582ad155caaee565d1b8418.jpgc5e0b00f51beb892518e75783b75489f.jpg

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Looking good! You do as many miles in 4 months as I do in a year, unless you meant 600 miles. 
I did mean 6,000 lol. I was just making up for the year of working on it and not being able to drive it. I plan on keeping the mileage to 5000 a year, especially if I register as a classic in 2019.

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I put new mufflers and tips on recently. Mufflers are Total Flow 33225 from Amazon, pretty much Magnaflow knock offs. And the tips are 2.25" single inlet to dual 3" outlet. Sounds good, drones a bit at cruising speeds though.

Link to my YouTube video below.

3326efe77b5ed63505860c3a5c4e7424.jpg487d116ac4c6031ddeb3b0e053ae86eb.jpg

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Could anyone give me some insight on a "lazy" or failing oxygen sensor... I dont know what it is about me owning LQ1 cars but the idle never is right.... My issue is that when low speed coasting or braking the cars idle will dip up and down, like it has a vacuum leak. Which I have quadruple checked everything vacuum related l, no dice and I have no CEL. Plus my Scantool is reading that the o2 sensor at idle is stabilized in 820mv - 920mv. Constantly being rich. My understanding is that it should fluctuate to high and low for a correct AFR mix l, with a lean AFR indicating a vacuum leak.. So my question is, would a failing o2 sensor cause idle fluctuations when coasting or braking but be fine idling and accelerating?

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Your scantool (a proper scanner?) should see the voltage constantly sweeping back & forth between .2 volts & .9 volts, can't remember if 1.5 displays the A/F ratio as an actual figure as OBD1 does or a percentage as OBDII does.

The constant back & forth action takes place under all conditions. This is my OTC unit, (this is OBD1) the a/f is in the upper left corner, loop is closed, the o2 is displayed as  .41v at the time the pic was taken, the lean/rich light will alternate between each other all the time.

 

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I have the actron CP9110. It doesn't show to actual Air/Fuel ratio, how ever the o2 sensor (displays in mV) stabilizes high towards 800mV-900mV (.8V - .09V). But also my IAC count isn't that high at idle either and I've tried 2 IAC. it's like 8 -11 counts at idle. I've cleaned the passages too

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Try disconnecting the o2 sensor (forcing open loop), note what the difference in your injector pulse width is as compared to the reading you see with the o2 connected (closed loop). If you're running rich the pulse width will be a greater value than what it should be, with the o2 sensor disconnected the pulse width should return to stoic open loop value.

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Injector pulse width Value is still zero with o2 sensor unplugged. However my IAC count is at 0 at warm idle... is this normal?

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Rechecked vacuum lines and checked to see if I had a bad brake booster, A/T vacuum modulator, or if I had any other major vacuum related issue with a vacuum pump/gauge. Its normal 18-19 lbs, minus a slight rapid needle, (I'm guessing wear on the valve train). Anyways I got to checking the Evap system and found that the line that runs to charcoal canister at rear of car would not hold vacuum. I unplugged it and capped that line and took the car for a drive, and I believe 100% that's where my idle fluctuation problem is.

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On 6/13/2019 at 5:57 PM, 95LQ1VERT said:

Injector pulse width Value is still zero with o2 sensor unplugged. However my IAC count is at 0 at warm idle... is this normal?

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The pulse width should not be *0* persay, one should still see a reading that will fluctuate with the throttle position. The o2 should be in the middle of the scale .. .45v.

The evap does not come into play at engine idle (both closed & open loop), the PCM will open the solenoid to the evap system only when the throttle is off idle such as when the vehicle is moving, when the throttle is in the overrun position (off the throttle when moving) the PCM will close the evap solenoid.

 

Check the vacuum line from the intake port to the evap solenoid for a possible leak on the engine side of the solenoid, if you've a leak THERE then that will affect idle performance. It may very well be that you also have a leak in the evap lines at the fuel tank, they will rot out there but you can't see them because they are hidden by the rear transverse spring.

 

Are you getting any stink of fuel from the rear of the car when the engine is running or shortly after you shut off the engine?

20190617_123650 (Large).jpg

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I wish my 12v plug worked in the car, so I could use the Scantool as I'm driving. Right now I'm using my other vehicle for power on the Scantool. But I dont have any gas smell from the car, but the Charcoal canister isn't holding vacuum. The lines are good cause I capped the ones over the tank to the canister and it held vacuum as well as the one from the purge solenoid to the tank. Both check out good. And the idle issue is occurs at low speed coasting and braking. I'm at a loss.

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Can you not plug the scantool into the cigarette lighter? Is the cigarette lighter dead?

The EVAP solenoid is normally open, with engine running at idle the ECM closes the solenoid. One can check the vacuum on both sides, with the engine running one can test the vacuum to the solenoid from the intake port just by removing the rubber hose at the solenoid and you should get vacuum, you can also test with a vacuum pump with ignition on (engine off). One can test for vacuum back to the canister from the solenoid in the same manner. When you tested the vacuum right at the container did you have one of the two ports capped off while pulling vacuum on the other?

 

If that's what you did & you cannot pull vacuum right AT the container I'd say the container has a split in the case somewhere. The rubber hoses do not last forever, trying to change them right at the tank can be a awkward task seeing as one can't easily get their hand in there to pull them from the tank much less push them back onto the ends of the pipes.

 

Edited by 55trucker

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Yes unfortunately my cigarette lighter plug doesn't work. And Yes I capped the canister on one port and pulled vacuum with a hand pump gauge on the other and it wouldnt pull anything. The lines going to the solenoid from intake manifold port and the one from the solenoid back to the canister both held vacuum. I also put new lines on where the old dry rotted rubber ones were and no change. So I'm guessing the canister is like you said split.
I want to say that's my issue with my idle.

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Haven't updated my thread lately. Here is one of my Aussies, Asa, posing for a pic with my Olds. My most favorite picture I have taken yet! a7627c5cfc260b7de7d1c3f138a2a3ed.jpg

 

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