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95LQ1VERT

95lq1vert's 1994 Cutlass Supreme convertible progress thread

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Got one side of the top sewn back together to the best of my ability. Still have to do the other side. It's a good band aid fix until I decide to replace the top. There is however a 6" section on the front side of the top, that the frame was in the way so I couldn't get it sewn all the way to the end. Looks better than it did. (Drivers side is the fixed side, passenger is for comparison) 99c0b1e8e71a295f0705ca40c8703327.jpgba90250e323e7555971ddd727f519f08.jpgf55e52f8ebdcd10a1aeddb19afed0a46.jpg10af45370d1a580ac673559d720e1a6c.jpg27268e0cfdcd058a59337ce5caff553d.jpg7d00e77b87daef7f8937bd092356bf28.jpgb16a7de22efa7248a55decae4e792a6a.jpg

 

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Got one side of the top sewn back together to the best of my ability. Still have to do the other side. It's a good band aid fix until I decide to replace the top. There is however a 6" section on the front side of the top, that the frame was in the way so I couldn't get it sewn all the way to the end. Looks better than it did. (Drivers side is the fixed side, passenger is for comparison)

Nice job on the repair!  I need to do this too.  A couple of weeks ago, the area above my drivers side quarter window started folding down when I put the top down.  What kind of thread did you use?

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Nice job on the repair! I need to do this too. A couple of weeks ago, the area above my drivers side quarter window started folding down when I put the top down. What kind of thread did you use?

Thank you, I used Gütermann M782 extra strong polyester upholstery thread. I picked it up at JoAnn fabrics for about $4 a roll. I bought 2 rolls, but 1 is more than enough. I hand stitched a backstitch, very time consuming but should hold up for a while. 2c5f19ce05efd77f78db8eaae19f3265.jpg

 

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Thank you, I used Gütermann M782 extra strong polyester upholstery thread. I picked it up at JoAnn fabrics for about $4 a roll. I bought 2 rolls, but 1 is more than enough. I hand stitched a backstitch, very time consuming but should hold up for a while.

I didn't think of JoAnn fabrics.  Thanks.  

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Been slowly trying to do the tie rod ends on the car. Passenger side is almost done. Have to cut the castle but off since it decided to get stuck on and wont unthread, but once that's off itll be quick to swap over. Drivers side jam nut is being a bear, so hopefully some penetrating oil and heat will work... as far as the ball joints go, I may just pay a shop to do it so I don't have to worry about trying to get those rivets drilled out myself.

 

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Since the old ball joint is junk it's easy enough to just cut the rivots from the top with an angle grinder. It doesn't matter if it cuts into the old ball joint or not.

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I agree on the angle grinder use. I didn't think I would have the angle to grind the top safely, so I went from the bottom. I had to be careful how deep I went, as it was the control arm I would be grinding into. Still, it's not terrible. I found that drilling a little bit first followed by grinding works best. No sense drilling all the way through or to the right bit size. Just a smaller hole a little past the top of the rivet was good enough to mark your center while grinding. Then the contour of the rivet shows up as you grind. BFH the rest of the way.

Edited by vipmiller803

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I got the tie rods done, the jam nuts were a pain in the ass. But I got them unscrewed and clean the thread up, and put it all back together. I called Firestone since I used to work there and seen how much front lower ball joints replacement would be... I'll take y'alls advice and do em myself.

 

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Started on the ball joints today. Didn't get very far though since I'm going in to work tonight. I figured my dremel with the grinding stones would be adequate to get the rivet heads off, but that takes way too long and chews the bits up too fast... So I have to get an angle grinder now.

 

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Angle grinder is one tool you'll never regret owning. A friend of mine got one of these straight cut offs from Harbor Freight and I was so surprised with the feel of the tool and precision that I got one of them too.

 

It looks like junk but it's incredibly smooth and even sounds like a quality tool.

 

It's not terribly powerful so it does take some care to get the most out of it.

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Ahhhhhh... the quality of Chinese tools. Didn't even get the second rivet head ground off before the angle grinder shit its pants.

 

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Ahhhhhh... the quality of Chinese tools. Didn't even get the second rivet head ground off before the angle grinder shit its pants.

 

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As my late father all way's told me, when your buying tools , buy the best the first time. 

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Update time! I managed to get the outer tie rods, and lower ball joints replaced over the course of a month with a vacation in between it all. This past Friday I got it licensed, and Saturday I had some new shoes put on and got an alignment done. Really got to enjoy it this weekend, with 600+ miles drove! Now it's on to the small stuff, like interior odds and ends, and complete vehicle detail.94f6ab57fec02b47b496140bd14d192e.jpg7212daa1bbbf44cc49f3af818d973096.jpg

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My current project with the Cutlass is trying to get the passengers door window to work correctly, I know for sure the rubber window/mirror seal is bad and is causing the window to bind up not roll up all the way. However I can't get the window to roll down all the way either, it seems as if a window clip is bad and making the window tilt forward. Does the convertible utilize clips to retain the window in its track?

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Like the hardtops the window glass is held horizontal by a guide retainer at the upper rear corner of the glass. If the retainer has worn out & is no longer held in the vertical track then it is quite possible that is the source of your issue.

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Awesome thank you. I have never taken a door panel off this car but I imagine it's not too terrible, but is in neccessary to get to the guide clip?

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Isn't there a guide on he bottom front of the glass too? 

My Regal had both so I assumed the whole body style did.

I had a hell of a time with guides. My GS had sticky windows on both sides but the guides were good. 

I cleaned all the seals and lubed them with silicone spray, then wiped out the tracks with rags and q-tips and put a bunch of new grease in and they're perfect now.

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My window doesn't come out of the tracks when rolling down or up, it gets about 5" from going down in the door and just binds up. It tilts forward towards the front fender some when its rolled down. I'll just have to take the panel off and look

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Yeah, I bet you're going to find the guide on the bottom front is out of the metal track. 

Be extra super dooper careful with it providing it's not broken.

It's tough to find them, and most adhesive doesn't stick to glass to put them on.

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Yeah, I bet you're going to find the guide on the bottom front is out of the metal track. 
Be extra super dooper careful with it providing it's not broken.
It's tough to find them, and most adhesive doesn't stick to glass to put them on.
You were correct, lowered the window enough to put the front guide in, then rolled it back up and popped the rear guide in. Works great now! Also go my new window guide weather seal put in.

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16 minutes ago, 95LQ1VERT said:

You were correct, lowered the window enough to put the front guide in, then rolled it back up and popped the rear guide in. Works great now! Also go my new window guide weather seal put in.

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And you didn't take pictures. Just when i was beginning to think you were a swell guy. 

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