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95LQ1VERT

95lq1vert's 1994 Cutlass Supreme convertible progress thread

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Yessir, have to move the bellowes up and reach through the spring with like an 8" pipe wrench. I was doing that long before I realized there was a tool.

 

In fact the first time I changed the struts I took them out and in through the wheel well, lol. I remember thinking it was a ridiculous design but it never dawned on me to try to go straight up. There was a spring compressor involved and everything. 

 

To this day I still don't have the proper tool but at least I'm experienced enough to go up and out. On mine I don't even raise the car and pull the wheels with the pipe wrench method.

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Got the strut tool in the mail. Doesn't come with the strut nut offset socket, so if you want a kit like the old AutoZone loaner tool. You'll be looking at spending another $65 on top of the $60 for the kit just for the 24mm offset socket (OTC 7544). I may try getting an offset box end wrench set and seeing if that will work instead...

 

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Still can't get it off... couldn't find an 60º offset box end wrench in 24mm or 15/16. The lack of tools is getting expensive, I'll try an impact next to see if I can get the strut rod nut off, Before I have to buy the special strut nut offset socket. Anyone have some hints or tips with this kind of issue? Nothing specific on the others threads.

 

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Odd, my off the rack offset boxes worked on mine. Maybe I had a different size nut with my Gabriel struts. Can you weld? Maybe cut a china socket and weld it to a china box wrench? Maybe bore the square hole in a china socket out until it fits and hold it with vise grips?

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I used the impact to break the nut loose. Then I was able to get the wrench on it and unscrew with the T50 Torx. Worked like a charm, got them both in, in less than 45 min per side lol. Not bad for only doing this one time before, 5 years ago.

 

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I can't visualize it. Have any pictures?

You use this to loosen the strut rod nut while the T50 torx is through the middle holding the strut rod stationary. The OTC kit doesn't have this socket like the old Autozone rent tool4372fbaf268bac097543c297da9ac21c.jpg

 

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Pardon the messy metric combo wrench drawer, it's been a wild couple of weeks. I've never had a strut nut these couldn't hold.

 

post-3252-0-26882300-1529081255_thumb.jpg

 

If you have access to a torch don't be afraid to modify a china wrench, they're like $10 a set. Just don't quench the wrench after bending and temper it, let it cool down to a normalish color before cooling it with water. I have no idea what I modified this one for but I'm guessing I won.

 

post-3252-0-34359500-1529081272_thumb.jpg

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I was looking for a set like the first picture that would fit the 24mm nut, but all the wrench sets I seen were a size too small.

 

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24mm = SAE 15/16", that's a size that's readily available and likely the reason 24mm is scarce.

I should rephrase, Harbor Freight didn't have 24 m m or 15/16 in those offset angled wrenches

 

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So doing the rear struts on the cutlass this weekend. Took the drivers side out, but didn't realize what the rubber "number 8" looking thing was that was connected to the lateral link. Come to find out it's an auxiliary spring? Had to rake my brain on how to put it back in since for the life me I couldn't get it compressed (which there is an obsolete, more than likely unobtainable C-clamp device specifically for that spring). I came up with a carriage bolt, washer, and nut compressor to get it back in. Made it super easy for those who have taken out the Aux spring before keeping it compressed. And to add, I didn't want to leave it out if there is a specific job for that rubber spring, so I made sure to reinstall it!

 

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Started sewing the top back together since over time the threads have disintegrated on both side, causing the cables to become visible. Working on my back stitch, so far I've got a 10" section done in about 2 hours time. This is gonna be the most time consuming project yet!

 

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Are the rear wheels supposed to have positive camber to them? f36294a47c61dc6eb8efe8195edfe6da.jpg

 

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Make sure there's enough slop in the strut to spindle bolts to allow for alignment or it'll come back just like that.

The rear camber specs for your car as per AllData are:

 

Allowable limits: -.4* - +.6*

 

Desired measurement: -.1*

 

So we can safely say "0" camber on that one...

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Make sure there's enough slop in the strut to spindle bolts to allow for alignment or it'll come back just like that.

The rear camber specs for your car as per AllData are:

 

Allowable limits: -.4* - +.6*

 

Desired measurement: -.1*

 

So we can safely say "0" camber on that one...

I read that you're supposed to file out the bottom bolt on the spindle? Is that what you mean by slop?

 

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