which w body strut cartridge tool to buy?

[Toolaholic]

Hi all, I want to replace the strut cartridges in my daughters 99 lumina. I can rent this from autozone: http://www.amazon.com/OEM-27034-W-Bo...productDetails Or buy it from amazon. I can buy this kit: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG5W/...=IP0AOYSTTLCQZ Or I can buy this from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4533-Sting...cartridge+tool but you need this w/ it: http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7544-24mm-Strut-Socket/dp/B000I1914M/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y Do you really need the 24mm offset socket? I have deep offset wrenches. Not so sure about the 1st one. Is Great Neck OEM any good? Got a great buy on strut cartridges: $28 gabriels. Any one do this job? Which tool would you rent/buy?

[Toolaholic]

I' bought the gabriels cause its getting a new rack and pinion next week and will need a alignment(since its getting alignment nows the time to mess w/ the struts). Cartridges are cheaper and I want 2 more years out of car for my daughter to drive to school. My oldest now in college drove it 2 yrs alreadynow its her sisters turn.It was bought w/ 96000miles from inlaws. It now has 105000. I did alot of work to this car. New spark plugs/wires,transmission fluid/filter,new IAC,LIM gasket,dummy plug o ring,fuel injector o rings,2 new headlights,new taillight,new alternator, big group 78 battery,new belts/hoses,and 4 new yokohama tires.

[Toolaholic]

I went w/ the OTC kit. I have a stahlwille 24mm x 21mm deep offset wrench for removal of strut nut.. To torque the new strut I have a proto 15/16(7 thousandths smaller than 24mm) 12point flarenut crowfoot, Amazon can keep the $50 OTC 24mm offset socket. Between the stahwille offset wrench and the 15/16 flarenut crow foot Im good. I could even use a 1/2 drive 24mm socket and use a low clearance hex adapter and put a 19mm deep offset wrench on the hex.

[carkhz316]

I can't believe none of the W-body gurus responded yet. I was going to suggest the Lisle one since that's what I bought locally a few years ago when I was in a bind, but hell, I'd definitely go with the OTC one you linked since it's on par and cheaper. Also, I think most (myself included) just reach through the wheel well and coil spring and tighten the cartridge nut with a wrench, haha brainfart. In regards to the strut choice, I prefer KYB's for long term quality and performance, but when you're just trying to keep a car going and maintained, the Gabriel and Monroe brands are just fine. Good luck with all the projects!

Edited September 12, 2014 by carkhz316

[Toolaholic]

I can't believe none of the W-body gurus responded yet. I was going to suggest the Lisle one since that's what I bought locally a few years ago when I was in a bind, but hell, I'd definitely go with the OTC one you linked since it's on par and cheaper. Also, I think most (myself included) just reach through the wheel well and coil spring and tighten the cartridge nut with a wrench. In regards to the strut choice, I prefer KYB's for long term quality and performance, but when you're just trying to keep a car going and maintained, the Gabriel and Monroe brands are just fine. Good luck with all the projects!

thanks! I've definitely learned a lot workin on this car. Father in law would only say it was serviced every year. Yeah only oil changes. By the time we bought it for out dsughter's everything needed "serviced".

[Toolaholic]

I can't believe none of the W-body gurus responded yet. I was going to suggest the Lisle one since that's what I bought locally a few years ago when I was in a bind, but hell, I'd definitely go with the OTC one you linked since it's on par and cheaper. Also, I think most (myself included) just reach through the wheel well and coil spring and tighten the cartridge nut with a wrench. In regards to the strut choice, I prefer KYB's for long term quality and performance, but when you're just trying to keep a car going and maintained, the Gabriel and Monroe brands are just fine. Good luck with all the projects!

I have KYBs on my pristine 55000mile 99 dakota r/t. I love KYBs but like you said I'm just trying to keep this car going. I'm sure there's more work to come. Edited September 11, 2014 by Toolaholic

[pitzel]

Just rent that one from Autozone. If you're using KYB struts, the threads aren't perfectly compatible with the extension rod, *but* you shouldn't have a problem getting the threads onto the KYB cartridge far enough to manipulate it into position. Just be careful and don't force everything tight.

 

If you get the KYB front strut cartridges, you'll need to buy a 6mm metric hex 3/8" driver socket seperately.

 

If you can't get the top strut nut to release, because its frozen on, or you strip out the Torx threads, you might want a pair of vice grips. An impact also helps in such scenario.

 

Also have a tub or something handy, to put the old strut cartridge into, as it will leak a lot of oil and be a big mess. The OEM design wasn't a sealed strut cartridge like you will probably buy if you go KYB/Monroe/Gabriel.

 

As for KYB's, I put them on all 4's (the quick-struts on the rears, the 366004 cartridges on the fronts). It is very stiff now. Almost undesirably so, but I presume it might weaken up a bit over time.

[pitzel]

Also, you'll want some silicone grease and/or spray to lube up the bushing before you re-install it. Its a really easy job once you get that top nut to release, and a minorly annoying job if you end up stripping the Torx. Penetrating oil can help, but I think it tends to promote slippage and strippage of the Torx bit.

 

As for the deep offset wrenches, I'd suggest taking off one of the strut tower covers, and seeing if you can physically get it in there. If you can, great. If not, then that won't work. Although that kit that you should rent from Autozone contains the tool to do the job.

[pitzel]

Also, I think most (myself included) just reach through the wheel well and coil spring and tighten the cartridge nut with a wrench.

 

Ummm, why not do it from above with the proper tool shoved down the hole, torqued to the proper spec that's in the service manual with a proper torque wrench? I've never heard of trying to tighten stuff through the coil spring, which should be compressed as much as possible by the vehicle's weight, as being such an approved procedure.

 

Seriously, prior to actually getting out there and replacing the fronts a few weeks ago, I, too, read a whole pile of nonsense on the Internet about doing it, about the kits not working with the KYB's, etc. I bought the KYB's, bought the hex 3/8" driver, rented the tool, and it was no big deal. Seriously, its really, really easy. The guy I was having beers with was astonished that I could do a complete front strut change in under 10 minutes on the car. Just rent the proper tool, and be done with it.

[carkhz316]

Ummm, why not do it from above with the proper tool shoved down the hole, torqued to the proper spec that's in the service manual with a proper torque wrench? I've never heard of trying to tighten stuff through the coil spring, which should be compressed as much as possible by the vehicle's weight, as being such an approved procedure.

 

Seriously, prior to actually getting out there and replacing the fronts a few weeks ago, I, too, read a whole pile of nonsense on the Internet about doing it, about the kits not working with the KYB's, etc. I bought the KYB's, bought the hex 3/8" driver, rented the tool, and it was no big deal. Seriously, its really, really easy. The guy I was having beers with was astonished that I could do a complete front strut change in under 10 minutes on the car. Just rent the proper tool, and be done with it.

"Ummm" I had a brainfart there. I was thinking of when the cartridge caps were seized on and I had to do that with a vice grips to get them off since they were rusted all to hell; and I realized that OP was referring to the strut rod nut and not the caps. And, not sure what you're talking about with the extension rod not being "compatible" with the "threads" of the KYBs. It's worked just fine on mine. Lastly, if you read OP's posts, he already bought a tool and Gabriels, so the point is moot.

Edited September 12, 2014 by carkhz316

[pitzel]

And, not sure what you're talking about with the extension rod not being "compatible" with the "threads" of the KYBs.

 

The KYB 366004 uses a different thread pitch than what is used by the stock/OEM strut cartridge. So an extension rod purposed to work on stock/OEM won't fully thread onto it properly. But you can get enough of the extension on even the KYB's to make it work. Just have to be careful and not force it.

[Heartbeat1991]

I wouldn't have wasted my money on buying a tool. You'll likely never need it again. And i you did, you could just rent it again. It's a free rental. Why waste money on buying one?

[Toolaholic]

I wouldn't have wasted my money on buying a tool. You'll likely never need it again. And i you did, you could just rent it again. It's a free rental. Why waste money on buying one?

not thrilled w/ great neck tools. What happens if I break it? What kind of shape will it be in after numerous rentals? Plus I love tools!

[Heartbeat1991]

It does't matter if you break it. They still give you the money back. And there aren't a ton of people loaning that tool there. I just used one a couple weeks ago, no issues. Cost me $0.

[pitzel]

not thrilled w/ great neck tools. What happens if I break it? What kind of shape will it be in after numerous rentals? Plus I love tools!

 

The 3/8 drive Torx bit can be messed up (I personally broke the one on my rental tool), but I'm not sure what else on a borrowed tool can really end up broken. Really, its a pretty idiot-proof piece of kit that one you linked that can be rented from Autozone (and identical to the Powerbuilt that you can rent from Partsource in Canada!).

[pitzel]

It does't matter if you break it. They still give you the money back. And there aren't a ton of people loaning that tool there. I just used one a couple weeks ago, no issues. Cost me $0.

 

Lol, yeah, I had to actually beg the guy to look for the rental tool in the back room because they hadn't rented it out in years. And it was covered in cobwebs and dust.

[Toolaholic]

Got the lumina back from local mechanic(he put a rack and pinion in). I removed the strut mount covers and sprayed silikroil on the strut nuts.And reinstalled strut mount covers. And yes the stahwille 21X24 deep offset fits. I figured it would as its one of the deepest deep offset wrenches and the offset is 75 degrees. I will torque new strut cartidge nuts w/ a 15/16 proto flank drive flare nut crow foot. After a good soaking in kroil I will begin working on it this weekend.

[Toolaholic]

Took strut nuts off today. Thank you kroil oil! Pryed a bushing out to see what I'm up against. Reassembled. Will work on it Sunday when off from work. Ordered 2 gabriel strut mount bushings at 10.50 each from amazon.

Edited September 20, 2014 by Toolaholic

[pitzel]

Took strut nuts off today. Thank you kroil oil! Pryed a bushing out to see what I'm up against. Reassembled. Will work on it Sunday when off from work. Ordered 2 gabriel strut mount bushings at 20.50 each from amazon.

 

Probably highly unnecessary. Can you return them?

[Toolaholic]

Probably highly unnecessary. Can you return them?

Actually 10.50 each. Old ones didnt look too bad for being 15 years old. I read review where someone said there car cornered better w/ new bushings. I guess I'm in the mode of if its reasonablely affordable replace the stuff you vcan while its apart already. This is what i bought: http://www.amazon.com/Gabriel-142143-Strut-Mount/dp/B001AM8H8E/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet%7C47&Model=Lumina%7C465&Year=1999%7C1999&carId=4&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive I seen how the sway bar links on my dakota R/T wore out(plastic inserts). The lumina bushings are rubber w/ what appears to be nylon inserts. Edited September 20, 2014 by Toolaholic

[pitzel]

Actually 10.50 each. Old ones didnt look too bad for being 15 years old. I read review where someone said there car cornered better w/ new bushings. I guess I'm in the mode of if its reasonablely affordable replace the stuff you vcan while its apart already. This is what i bought: http://www.amazon.com/Gabriel-142143-Strut-Mount/dp/B001AM8H8E/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet%7C47&Model=Lumina%7C465&Year=1999%7C1999&carId=4&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive I seen how the sway bar links on my dakota R/T wore out(plastic inserts). The lumina bushings are rubber w/ what appears to be nylon inserts.

 

Not really sure how new bushings would improve 'cornering'. But for ten bucks a side, well, its not like its the end of the world, lol.

 

As for prying, if you thread the extension rod of the kit on, those should come out easily enough with just your fingers.

 

Just make sure u have something to put the oily old strut into. As it can be a mess if you just toss it on the floor or whatever.

[Toolaholic]

Made a hydraulic oil mess on the street. Had to rent the oem 27034 from autozone cause gabriel piston was too big and the otc tab would not let tool go over piston. The otc flips from 3 pins on one end to 4 pins on the other. Worked to remove factory but wouldnt work w/ gabriels. Its going back to amazon for full refund! Reason product didnot do the job that it was intended for. Car handles much better. Had to jack car up to get bushings to seat. Used the weight of tires/suspension to compress piston enough to draw in bushing. The gabriels are stiff.

[pitzel]

Made a hydraulic oil mess on the street. Had to rent the oem 27034 from autozone cause gabriel piston was too big and the otc tab would not let tool go over piston. The otc flips from 3 pins on one end to 4 pins on the other. Worked to remove factory but wouldnt work w/ gabriels. Its going back to amazon for full refund! Reason product didnot do the job that it was intended for. Car handles much better. Had to jack car up to get bushings to seat. Used the weight of tires/suspension to compress piston enough to draw in bushing. The gabriels are stiff.

 

Did you lube the bushings up with silicone/dielectric grease/spray? When I did mine, that's what I did, and compressing the shaft enough by hand to get the bushing to seat wasn't an issue. But if there was no lubricant and you were fighting the friction, it could have been difficult.

[Toolaholic]

Did you lube the bushings up with silicone/dielectric grease/spray? When I did mine, that's what I did, and compressing the shaft enough by hand to get the bushing to seat wasn't an issue. But if there was no lubricant and you were fighting the friction, it could have been difficult.

New bushings didn't come yet. Old ones went in fine as they still had silikroil on them. They would only go it half way because Gabriel strut would not compress any further. I jacked the car from the sill position(v notch under door) and the weight of tire/suspension compressed the strut and drew bushing in. When new bushings come it should be easy enough to swap out old ones for new ones.

[Toolaholic]

I got the Gabriel's today. The factory inserts and bottom is nylon. Rest of bushing is rubber. The Gabriel strut mounts have metal bottom and inserts w/ the rest rubber. I like em. And it was only $20. Front end alignment Monday morning.