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  1. The Cutlass Supreme convertible top is a standard two-piece design. According to “Almost all Ford, GM and Chrysler convertible tops install as two separate units. They are the main top and the rear window section. This is the original design since the thirties and the design is fundamentally unchanged until much later…The rear window section is often called the ‘curtain.’†The original top on Cutlass Supreme convertibles was double texture pinpoint vinyl. When replacing the top, though, you have several options when it comes to materials (the following material explanations are excerpted in large part from with some notes added and irrelevant material removed): Single Texture Pinpoint vinyl: This is the most common replacement material used for Cutlass Supreme convertibles. This is a good, durable vinyl that matches the grain of many original tops from the 40's to the 80's. This material weighs 36 ounces per square yard. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Less expensive convertibles have been known to use this material. MOST aftermarket top seller's tout single texture vinyl as "the material the original OEM manufacturer used," when in fact most used double texture. To the untrained eye and hand it looks and may feel the same, but most cars that had a pinpoint vinyl top, built from the 40's to the 90's, used the double texture vinyl (Listed next). Although not the same, Single Texture Vinyl is still a good and commonly used replacement. It looks and feels nearly identical, will last almost as long, and for many restored vehicles that are garaged and covered, a single texture top could last 20 years or more if cared for properly. Double Texture Pinpoint vinyl (sometimes called Euro vinyl): 80% of Muscle cars and 40's - early 90's convertibles used double texture vinyl as the OEM material. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Double texture vinyl weighs 38 ounces per square yard. The texture is a pinpoint texture nearly identical to single texture pinpoint vinyl. Double texture pinpoint costs a little more than the single texture pinpoint, however it is a more durable top and will last a few years longer. Single Texture Sailcloth vinyl: Many 90's convertibles such as Sebrings and Mustangs started using Sailcloth vinyl in place of pinpoint vinyl due to the fantastic texture. Standard interior color is black, gray interior cloth is available with some colors at an extra cost. The weight of Sailcloth vinyl is 36 ounces per square yard. Sailcloth vinyl material has a woven texture that resembles a "richer" cloth top. Color choices in Sailcloth vinyl are more limited than those in pinpoint vinyl. Stayfast Cloth: Stayfast is a tightly woven cloth canvas. The yarn is solution dyed BEFORE it is woven, creating a uniform color throughout. Domestic made or converted vehicles that came with a cloth top most likely used Stayfast cloth. Stayfast holds strong in both extremely hot and cold climates. Due to its richer look, Stayfast tops are more expensive. Stayfast color choices are limited and white is unavailable. Cutlass owners who want to give their car a more upscale appearance (and do not need or want a white top) have upgraded to a Stayfast top, and are almost universally pleased with its improved appearance/texture as compared to the original-style vinyl tops. When replacing the top, the window is almost always replaced as well. It is generally not recommended that you attempt to detach your existing glass window and try to re-use it. According to “Glass windows are bonded or heat sealed in to the vinyl or cloth surrounding them. It is very difficult to install just the glass in to a vinyl curtain and it will cost you about as much to have this done as it is for a brand new window and curtain. If your window and the attached fabric are in good condition, you can re-use them, but the vinyl may not match the new top.†It is possible to replace the top with one containing a plastic window, but this is not recommended, as plastic windows looks cheap, are very flimsy, and scratch easily. Please allow the Cutlass ‘vert to retain its dignity by using a glass-windowed top, and leave the plastic windows to the Geo and Cavalier ‘verts. When selecting a glass window with your new top, you will have the option of choosing one with or without a defroster. The headliner is usually re-used if still in acceptable condition. Same with the top pads and cables, though there is some difference of advice here. Some websites recommend new pads and side cables with every new top, and new rear cables with every other top, while other sites and installers say that the side cables and pads only need to be replaced when their condition warrants it. It’s up to you. Most convertible manuals indicate that the complete top install takes about 10 hours, 7 for the main top piece, and 3 for the “curtain†(the secondary piece that holds the window). Labor costs can range from $400 to $1000, depending on the installer’s hourly rate. Some shops may allow you to buy the top and bring it to them, but be aware that some will inflate their labor a bit to compensate for the lost profit from selling you the top through them, and also may not warranty the installation, since they can’t verify the quality of a top brought to them by a customer. This means that you would have to make sure it looked right before leaving the shop. give some excellent advice: “If you decide to "hire out" the job: * Go to your yellow pages. Look under "automobile seat covers, upholstery and tops." Select a couple of shops and visit or call them. You want to determine that is their policy to provide installation service on tops that are not purchased from the shop. * Many shops are dealers themselves and represent a top manufacturer and will not want to sacrifice this re-sale aspect of their profit. Be wary of any shop that disparages a product that it does not carry. Although it is true that quality can vary, no company should use "scare tactics" to get your business.†While it is highly recommended that you have the top installed by a professional, it is possible, with patience and the correct tools, to install the top yourself. Be aware that it will likely take an inexperienced installer several times longer than a professional. sells a universal two-piece top manual, and it is also possible to acquire an original GM instructional video for the Cutlass ‘Vert top that several have said was a real help when installing the top themselves. If you will be buying a top to take to an installer, or will be attempting the install yourself, you will need to decide where to get a top from. Here are just a few sources (that also represent a range of the brands available) that sell Cutlass ‘vert tops:—They have the best prices found to this point, though their selection is a bit limited (for example, they don't offer sailcloth texture option). The tops they sell for the Cutlass 'Verts are EZ-on, the most widely sold brand. Their quality is considered to be good.—They sell tops as part of a kit that includes side cables and pads. Their tops are Kee Tops, supposedly a pretty premium brand (though one installer I contacted said that “they think a lot of their tops [because of the higher price] but I’ve never noticed that they were any better than EZ-onâ€). This site is well-known for their knowledge and customer service. Several have commented that they were pleased with their transaction. Kee tops are also sold on’s website here:—Their tops are made by Acme Headliner, and are supposed to be pretty good quality. These tops, at present (3/09) are the ones most commonly seen on Ebay.—They also carry EZ-on tops. Their prices are higher than, but they have a wider selection, offering sailcloth tops in various colors, including the “Brite White†that is the correct color white color for Cutlass ‘verts. JC Whitney—They have historically carried Electron tops. Some sources say that this is the economy brand of convertible tops, though one installer I contacted did actually say they were is favorite because of how easy they are to install. Electron tops are also available through and Robbins Tops—arguably the highest end brand, they only sell the main top piece, not the curtain. Their tops are sold through regional distributors. Wherever you buy your top from, make sure it comes with a 5-year warranty. This is pretty much standard. If they don’t offer this, their tops are probably of lesser quality than average. Cylinders and pumps are still available from a few sources. One is If anyone can think of anything else that is needed, let me know and I’ll modify this thread.
  2. Project completed and now ready to ship. Cutlass Convertible Top Frame Pin Cup Kit - 2 each pin cups 2 each internal tooth washers 8 each Black Vinyl Pin Sheath and BONUS DVD When I bought the car, I found shortly afterward on Ebay a couple of GM Dealer vhs tapes. 1. Cutlass Convertible Top Diagnosis and Service 2. 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Product Training. Well, it occurred to me that the "Top Service" tape would be a valuable item for all vert owners and since I have a way of dubbing from vhs to dvd, I thought I would include a copy with the kit. The Cutlass product training is a salesmans guide to the 1994 Cutlass lineup hosted by John Goss of Motorweek. Thank you to DOHCRagTopGuy, 95TripleWhiteVert and 93luminaz34 for your payments. Your kits have been mailed. Thanks again to everyone who has participated and pledged participation allowing this to happen. To confirm: pricing is as follows: Paypal - $ 47.00 - to my account Payments by check - $ 45.50 to - Dennis Schmude 2896 Oxford Way Duluth, GA 30096 Shipments to Canada - ADD $ 1.25 .
  3. I'm going to post here as well for easier searching. I was able to use the factory upper strut mount and bump stop by using some springs that have a 4 1/8" ID top and a 2 1/2" ID bottom. The springs are listed as "GM series" coil springs and are available from 250 to 600lb. The 250 and 300lb springs are 11" long. The 350lb and above springs are 10" long. The springs I used for my 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible were the springs rated at 300lbs /in. I ground down the factory upper spring isolator to make a tapered spacer (3/8" thick on one side and 1/8" thick on the other) to keep the spring parallel with the strut. Install the tapered spacer on the upper strut mount, then install the poly spring isolator and spring with thrust bearing, adjusting sleeve and nut. The guys at QA1 racing said to use never seize on the thrust bearing. I cut the bottom two rings off the bump stop. Parts List: (2) HAL-11HTBF300 springs $65.97 ea at summit racing (1) ENS-9-6101G Spring isolator $20.97 pr at summit racing. (1) HAL-7888-109 Thrust bearing kit $25.97 pr at summit racing. (2) COK-12452-H Coil over adjusting sleeve about $40/pr A1 Racing. (2) COK-12460 Coil over adjuster nut about $26/pr A1 Racing Total investment around $250 Wheels: 17X8 + 38 offset Tires: 255/45-17 Tire clearance at 1 3/4" drop. I've since went 2" drop and no tire rubbing on either the springs or the fenders yet. This is as low as I feel comfortable with so this is where I stop. 2" drop front. 2 1/2" drop rear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Ended up with another Gen 1 (not complaining). After my asshole roommate blew up the engine in my Mark VIII a friend gave me this... 1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme coupe. Clearcoat is gone on the hood and tops of the fenders and front bumper. The passenger side body kit needs to be repainted as well. There is also minor damage to the passenger side from when the previous owners hit a deer. Not going to go crazy with the mods on this one until I get the title (should be in another 2 weeks). I do have a list of planned mods (mostly stuff I had done to my previous cutlass's... HUD, ATC, cleaning it up, ETC).
  5. I was thinking about adding a trans kit to my 4t60e. Any big benefits?
  6. 92 Cutlass Supreme needs some rear struts, and I know KYB's are favorites around here, but they are very expensive. Can pick up two Monroe OE Spectrum(Sensatrac) struts for 28.99 each shipped. The Monroe strut mate mounting kit 902941 Napa branded for $17.00 each shipped. Two complete rear struts with all new parts for $92 to my door sounds like a good deal to me. Just have to assemble the strut mate kit, and it will be a fully assembled ready to mount strut. What you guys think? I know KYB has a good reputation, but money is talking.
  7. Hey guys I was bored at work and was cruising the forums and and found in the section for the TGP a Shift kit XK1 for $30.79 is the part# listed. Now is this shift kit specific to the transmission family or is it a generic kit? That is the question that needs to be answered. also they have a really nice Rebuild kit for it, 753034 Is called a super kit $399.79 Does it have the extra clutch plate that is needed? Not sure I might have to email them and find out. I am just throwing this out there. Input on anyone that has used Rockauto for stuff like this let everyone know. I bought the Transmission Governor and it was the correct one so far so good there.
  8. Anyone here ever done their own clear bra install? Most shops here want $500-$700 to install one, and I can get a quality kit online for less than $200. Just wondering if anyone has done it and what was your experience. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Trying to find some touch-up for my GP. I can't find the correct paint code. I believe it's 26U, but I can't find it on the typical touch-up paint websites. Express paint list a mystic green metallic, but the paint code isn't on my spid label and the color it shows it grayish, which I believe came on 2014 SS sedans. Anybody know where to find this paint? When I tried to find touch-up for the Regal, which was discontinued, the body shop wanted over $100 for a spray can of matched paint and I don't want to pay that much. I read it might also be called blue green crystal or mystic teal. Also, my hood is kinda messed up, but a racing stripe would cover it. Anybody know of any decals that look good on these cars? I found one, but it's like $240 and is a complete kit. I just want to do the hood to cover some blems. ???
  10. Hi guys! Been a while since I've logged in and about 15 minutes ago someone tried to log in to my account here. The system rejected any more log in attempts and auto generated an email with the perps ip address. Just wanted to let you know in case anyone else was having trouble. I sold my 90 TGP last year. I bawled my head off but I didn't have the time or money to do the cosmetic stuff needed. It still purred like a kitten. I sold it for $1100 which I didn't think was too bad considering how trashed it was. I will own one again someday. I am sure of it. Anyhow, let me know if you want the perps ip address and track them for me. Xoxo Snip
  11. Has anyone on the forum installed accessory gauges? I have a Sunpro triple gauge kit that I want to put in my 1990 Lumina. It has water temp, volts and oil pressure gauges. If anyone has installed these before let me know. It looks like a pain !
  12. I'm using the term "HACK" as a parlance of our times, as in "LIFEHACK." This is a little trick I stumbled upon whilst flushing the coolant on my Impala. I purchased a Prestone Flush & Fill Kit and cut the heater hose that connects to the coolant pipe running to the top of the water pump housing. I then installed the garden hose tap across the breach in the heater hose. After flushing out the old coolant, I used the newly installed heater hose tap to fill the back side of the motor. I found that this drastically cuts down on the amount of bleeding that needs to be done when refilling the cooling system. Instead of filling the radiator and waiting for the thermostat to open, then refilling the radiator and bleeding both bleeders over and over and over again, adding coolant through the heater hose tap gets you "7/8ths" of the way full. Give it a try, it'll definitely save you time, and frustration!!!
  13. Hello all im new just found this forum on google i just got 1994 buick regal for free i rebuilt the 3.1L V6 that was in and now im starting on other stuff like the rear suspension now i know that its like crazy hard to find a new rear spring of any kind i cant even find a good used one anywhere lol the one that is on the car right now is starting to sag and i have put gas struts on didnt really help much at all i found this kit and it says it will fit a 1992 to 1996 chevy lumina and i was wondering if anybody could tell me if it would fit on my regal too any help would be great! Thanks all
  14. Greetings all. We recently bought an '88 Regal, mostly for my daughter to drive. 129K miles, and was previously owned by the mother-in-law of a mechanic buddy so it's pretty solid and has had most needed maintenance done. It had the pretty common way too stiff gas pedal, so we found the throttle mechanism recall kit on ebay for fifty bucks and fixed that last weekend. Unfortunately the car met a pickup truck on the freeway last night and we need to find a passenger door so I'll be trolling junkyards and forums and craigslist until we do. It's pretty cold in Wisconsin right now with no window on the right side so we need to figure that out pretty quick. Leads appreciated. Jim White '88 Regal
  15. Turns out the oil manifold (aka Oil Distribution cover) gasket, GM part #24506744 is discontinued and can't be ordered. I can't find this in the aftermarket by itself. It comes in the full head gasket kit by Fel-Pro and Victor Reinz. It's Fel-Pro part #95234, but I don't know how to get it separately. I'd try to email them somehow, but they conveniently don't have any kind of contact info on their website. Only other option I can come up with is to cut one out of bulk material, but I assume it would have to be some kind of high temperature, high pressure gasket material. I have no clue what the original material is and how thick it should be. Not to mention it does have a somewhat intricate shape which looks a bit complicated. Not sure how well I could do with just an X-acto knife. Last option is just to let it be. The puddle around it was only about 1/8". Don't really like that idea, but if I didn't already have the LIM out of it, I wouldn't normally bother changing it. I have to top off the oil regularly anyway, and I don't think it's because of this leak. Thoughts?
  16. Imp558

    Eliminate ABS?

    A buddy of mine is building a Camero up and is purchasing a kit to eliminate ABS and do Line Lock at the same time. While I'm not particularly interested in line lock I do think it would be cool to remove the ABS and purchase a less expensive master cylinder for it. Does anybody know of a master/ proportioning valve from another vehicle that may be close enough to replace ours. I mean physically install.
  17. Hi all, I want to replace the strut cartridges in my daughters 99 lumina. I can rent this from autozone: Or buy it from amazon. I can buy this kit: Or I can buy this from amazon: but you need this w/ it: Do you really need the 24mm offset socket? I have deep offset wrenches. Not so sure about the 1st one. Is Great Neck OEM any good? Got a great buy on strut cartridges: $28 gabriels. Any one do this job? Which tool would you rent/buy?
  18. I have a 98 lumina LTZ with a L36 that eventually I will turbo. I decided to run a supercharged motor for the low compression, however I'm not sure I should hold out for a series 3 or if I find a series 2 with good mileage, just take it. I under the impression the 3 will perform better and hold up better. My plan will be to swap the upper intake over to a n/a style with hv3 insert. Fuel wise I'm curious if there is an advantage with return or return less fuel rails? I'll be setting up for e85 if it's readily available otherwise meth injection. I'm set on the z7 kit for now, but I'm wondering if I can run it with a wastegate dumped into the atmosphere rather than downpipe just for the noise or is it better to run it into the exhaust I don't really see why. Just putting my thoughts out there to see what others think. I'm still learning.
  19. So i have Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs for sale and a buddy of mine wants to know if they fit his '99 Buick Lesabre?? Thanks for the help guys!
  20. Sunday my car had to be towed because it started "screeching" very loudly and I could smell smoke. The verdict is that I need to replace components in the clutch. Center Force does not make a full clutch kit for my car. Phoenix, Zoom Performance, RhinoPac, Exedy, Centric, Clutchnet, and Valeo do. Spec offers Stage 1 to 4 also...but they are expensive. What is the best clutch kit for the Getrag 284 in a 1992 Lumina Z34? I am not looking for a drag car...mine is a daily driver that I would like to perform and last. Thanks, Tom
  21. My car had to be towed because it started "screeching" very loudly and I could smell smoke. The verdict is that I need to replace components in the clutch. Center Force does not make a full clutch kit for my car. Phoenix, Zoom Performance, RhinoPac, Exedy, Centric, Clutchnet, and Valeo do. I ended up opting for a Clutchnet stage 2 is the link: On Monday, I went to the dealer and the clutch was already installed. However, there is a major problem. When the pedal is pushed it takes tremendous effort (feels like concrete), and when the pedal is depressed pushing the pin on the slave cylinder actually causes the plastic where it the slave cylinder mounts to the transmission to flex. As you can see from the link above, the clutches go from Stage 1 to 5...and there is no way a Stage 2 should be that stiff. I was wondering if the cylinder itself might be bad?...or could it be the clutch? Has anyone else run into this issue? Neither the mechanic or I know what to do. There are three slave cylinders: 1) Original OEM which was removed. 2) OEM replacement that I bought. It was Raybestos...same part number as Delco. My understanding is that they tried to put that one in when the pin was not in it, which is what messed it up. What happened is that there is a circular metal ring that protruded beyond the mount. That is what I saw when he showed me. 3) To replace the one that was damaged, they purchased another new one (I am not sure where) and installed it in the car. When pressing the pedal inside you can see the plastic where it mounts to the transmission flex. The clutch and pressure plate came from clutchnet. The new throwout bearing is from GM. The new master and slave cylinders I bought were from Raybestos. However, they said that the third slave cylinder got damaged because it was put in without the pin? He showed me that one on his workbench and you could see a silver sleeve sticking out of it where it mounts to the tranny. The replacement they bought was already in the car, but I have no idea where it came from. Does anyone have experience with this that can help? Thanks, Tom
  22. Hello everyone. Just figured I should join since I have 3 first gen w's and looking at a fourth next week. '94 GTP current commuter, '92 Z34 bought it because it has a good 284, and my old '91 GTP auto (dropped a valve at 7000 rpm, there was chunks of aluminum embeded in the air cleaner!) I might repair it but the rust is starting to come through above the body kit, we will see. I also have quite a few other vehicles. To many to list. My 2010 powerwagon is my baby, the 94 GTP helps offset the fuel economy a bit. Thanks for reading. Chad Jager
  23. Hey there, I own a 2002 Chevy Impala LS 3.8lt. This is my 3rd 1st was a 2001 Impala police package...bought it at a poljce auction, was a good car but had electrical issues cause before they sold it they remove all the police equipment and in the process cut a bunch of wires and for about 2 yrs it was a pain. Got rid of it thinkin no more Impala for me after about a year ki da missed my impala ended up getting a 2000 chevy impala base model. Learned the car in and out. Had it for about 2 yrs and sold it. Thought I wanted something different. Boy was I wrong. About 1 yr later I decided I was gonna get me another impala but this one had to be the full package Impala so I got the 2002 Chevy Impala LS. Black,All leather, Power Sunroof, power heated seats, Spoiler, Onstar,etc. It has right now 195,000 miles and still purrs like a kitten with a mean
  24. 1999 Chevy Lumina 3.1 The grommet for the vent tube from the rear valve cover is bad. Is this something that comes with the gasket kit for the valve covers or is it included with the tube? Its causing the Lumina to almost stall and die under any load.
  25. So i'm still looking around for a whole suspention kit and i found this on ZZP's site. Are these a good replacement suspention kit? I'm not going to do any hard driving with the Buick,just would like to give it a nice stance while droping in a new suspention kit. Thanks!
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