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Yet Another Inoperable Rear Quarter Window Thread


Olds Dad
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So I know there are multiple threads on here about the inoperable rear quarter windows on these convertibles - clicks - banging with a socket extension - etc.

 

I have the factory service manual and went through the flow chart step by step and ultimately found that the Master Switch needed to be replaced. Fortunately for me, I've owned this car for almost 20 years and I had bought a new Master Switch back when Oldsmobile was still around. So I installed the new Switch and still no rear quarter windows.

 

In desperation I tried the tapping with an extension trick and voila...my left rear went down using the AWAD feature. Now...it won't come back up.

 

I just figured maybe there is still someone out there that can lend some "oh yeah...that EXACT thing happened to me" advice.

 

Thanks

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When I first bought my convertible nearly 5 years ago, I had the same problem. I had a helper tap the switch off and on, while I used a broomstick to gently tap the motor. Took about an hour, but it finally began running up and down, and I've had no further issues the past 5 years.

 

So I know there are multiple threads on here about the inoperable rear quarter windows on these convertibles - clicks - banging with a socket extension - etc.

 

I have the factory service manual and went through the flow chart step by step and ultimately found that the Master Switch needed to be replaced. Fortunately for me, I've owned this car for almost 20 years and I had bought a new Master Switch back when Oldsmobile was still around. So I installed the new Switch and still no rear quarter windows.

 

In desperation I tried the tapping with an extension trick and voila...my left rear went down using the AWAD feature. Now...it won't come back up.

 

I just figured maybe there is still someone out there that can lend some "oh yeah...that EXACT thing happened to me" advice.

 

Thanks

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What you have to be careful of is keeping the switch pressed "on" for long periods of time while attempting this...it appears there's some sort of thermal switch in the motor, and once it switches on, it takes awhile before it cools enough to reset.

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I just let the roads bang and shake the power motor in place. It takes longer but I notice they stop working if I drive on a badly paved road and it fixes itself the same way. From my understanding it's not the master switch, it's the motor itself because neither the driver's switch nor the rear switch will move the window unless you tap on it. :think:

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I pulled the rear quarter trim off and gained full access to the windows and motors - after verifying that there was power at the motors (both switch "UP" and "DOWN"), after a few hammer taps the window did start working - however, when I try to put it back up, it goes up a few inches and then "Clicks" - I can see both the drive and driven gear on the motor and the window regulator and neither are moving - so the 'click' must be inside the motor - I'm thinking the worm gear or whatever is in there?

 

Do we know the availability of these rear quarter window motors? Do they interchange with non-convertible cars?

 

Thanks

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I pulled the rear quarter trim off and gained full access to the windows and motors - after verifying that there was power at the motors (both switch "UP" and "DOWN"), after a few hammer taps the window did start working - however, when I try to put it back up, it goes up a few inches and then "Clicks" - I can see both the drive and driven gear on the motor and the window regulator and neither are moving - so the 'click' must be inside the motor - I'm thinking the worm gear or whatever is in there?

 

Do we know the availability of these rear quarter window motors? Do they interchange with non-convertible cars?

 

Thanks

 

They're generic motors. You can find them off any early 90's to maybe early 2000's cars. Ive' heard the easiest way to get them is to look for them as "yukon power window motors"

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bit the bullet and bought two new motors and installed - after borrowing the correct rivet gun and tracking down the big diameter rivets to reinstall the regulators, the rear windows are working like new - including the AWAD feature.

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Nice!! How hard was it to take off the window motors?

 

It wasn't too bad - I was nervous about taking the soft trim off - but if you start with the upper roll bar trim and work your way down, it comes off pretty easy - 2 screws and 3 'barbed' plastic plugs on each side panel.

 

Each window regulator is held in place with ten 1/4" diameter rivets - a few minutes with a cold chisel and they're out. The regulators pop out easily from the window and the motors are riveted to them - one of the 3 rivets is hard to get to because the regulator itself (the geared part) is in the way - but I got them out and the new motors came with replacement bolts to reinstall. Biggest thing is that you need to have access to a rivet gun that will handle the rivets (NAPA sells the rivets as "window regulator rivets" in a box of 25 for around $13) - I borrowed the rivet tool but I'm sure they're rentable. A regular "pop" rivet tool won't do it. There's absolutely no way to get your hands in there with the regulators in place to get bolts in so you have to re-rivet into place. Other than that, it's a pretty easy job.

 

My windshield goes back in today and then I get the fun task of reinstalling the reveal moldings and the interior trim. Getting closer every day

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  • 5 years later...

Hey everyone,  I hope it’s ok to jump start this topic. I have a 95 with a stuck window.  I spent a few hours today banging on the rear window motor and it finally went down but it will only come back up about an inch. I finally took the trim off so I’m thinking I should just replace it now that I’m this far in and it’s still stuck.  

Can anyone recommend a good replacement that you’ve found online? 

Also, if I’m understanding instructions correctly, the 10 outer rivets come out first. Then the three  rivets that holds the motor to the plate? 

Any trick to pulling it off once the rivets are out? 

Thanks for any help!  
53E61DA9-F0CE-442F-BC70-EB66941967AE.thumb.jpeg.5dc455c3f3d5f538658e5e828cdf4c12.jpeg

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22 hours ago, xennith said:

Hey everyone,  I hope it’s ok to jump start this topic. I have a 95 with a stuck window.  I spent a few hours today banging on the rear window motor and it finally went down but it will only come back up about an inch. I finally took the trim off so I’m thinking I should just replace it now that I’m this far in and it’s still stuck.  

Can anyone recommend a good replacement that you’ve found online? 

Also, if I’m understanding instructions correctly, the 10 outer rivets come out first. Then the three  rivets that holds the motor to the plate? 

Any trick to pulling it off once the rivets are out? 

Thanks for any help!  
53E61DA9-F0CE-442F-BC70-EB66941967AE.thumb.jpeg.5dc455c3f3d5f538658e5e828cdf4c12.jpeg

I was working on this EXACT area the other day on a triple white 94 vert.  I realized I didn't have any bits on hand to drill out those rivets.  I wish I could help you out but not educated in how all that works yet.

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So I ordered a motor from rockauto.com and I removed the motor and regulator today, that was a real bitch. I drilled out the rivets as best I could and then had to use a chisel to finish them off. I’m a little worried about getting it all back together. I’m thinking it might be easier if I lower the top before trying to put the regulator back in because of the position of the top piston. I’ll know more after Friday when the motor gets here. 

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So the rockauto.com motor worked perfectly but it was nearly impossible to get the regulator in and out with the motor attached. When I took it out I removed the motor from the regulator first, but since the new one gets screwed on to the regulator first it all has to go in as 1 piece. I actually cut a bigger hole in the plastic shield to get it in and reattached to the window . 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

This irritating problem has come up again on my convertible. I’ve tapped it with a hammer for 2 hrs without any up movement... 

Has anyone every ground the rivets off and replaced the motor without taking the regulator off?

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  • 3 years later...
On 7/8/2014 at 7:40 AM, Olds Dad said:

 

It wasn't too bad - I was nervous about taking the soft trim off - but if you start with the upper roll bar trim and work your way down, it comes off pretty easy - 2 screws and 3 'barbed' plastic plugs on each side panel.

 

Each window regulator is held in place with ten 1/4" diameter rivets - a few minutes with a cold chisel and they're out. The regulators pop out easily from the window and the motors are riveted to them - one of the 3 rivets is hard to get to because the regulator itself (the geared part) is in the way - but I got them out and the new motors came with replacement bolts to reinstall. Biggest thing is that you need to have access to a rivet gun that will handle the rivets (NAPA sells the rivets as "window regulator rivets" in a box of 25 for around $13) - I borrowed the rivet tool but I'm sure they're rentable. A regular "pop" rivet tool won't do it. There's absolutely no way to get your hands in there with the regulators in place to get bolts in so you have to re-rivet into place. Other than that, it's a pretty easy job.

 

My windshield goes back in today and then I get the fun task of reinstalling the reveal moldings and the interior trim. Getting closer every day

Thank you. Quite a bit late, but running into this same issue and was nervous drilling out all rivets worried about what to expect!

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  • 2 months later...

Just an update for anyone....

One of my rear windows was going down slowly, but then stopped. After taking everything apart, the sound proofing became entangled in the regulator and caused it to stop working. Realized it was not the regulator or the motor. 

 

On the other rear side, there was no power. A click when I used the master switch. It was the passenger rear switch that was broken. When it is not working, it's like Christmas tree lights, if one is out...nothing will work.

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