tttiimmyyyd Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) Ok so I have a 94 oldsmobile cutlass supreme 3100 series with 182,000. I have done alot of work to this car as far as ball joints, tire rods, 4 struts/shocks, 4 new calipers/rotors/pads, newtires, plugs/wires waterpump, alternator, battery, starter, fuelpump/sending unit, gas tank, regular oil changes and coolant flushes throughou the 6 years ive owned it. I recently just rewired the Engine Computer and the car has ran fine for about a month or so. Noticed the waterpump was spraying fluid or of it so I replaced that, same day the alternator went had it tested it was bad replaced it with a new one in a parking lot. Start the car up its running great then it starts bogging out and dies. starts right back up runs fine for about 3 minutes then bogs out and dies. so i thought it was the fuel pump/sending unit as I replaced the fuel pump before but not the sending unit. So i bought new fuelpump and sending unit put that and a new fuel filter on start the car up runs good for about 2-3 minutes and dies. give it gas bogs a little revs up idles back out then dies. it doesn't always act this way. it always starts right up and runs good for a min or so then bogs and dies or just bogs out until u give it gas then it dies. i am not a car expert but i do have some experience. i have no idea what the probelm is no check engine light on please help!! Edited March 31, 2013 by tttiimmyyyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Something is happening when its hitting closed loop, can you get a scanner on there and read the 02 sensor data and fuel trim data, maybe the IAC isnt opening enough and its starving the engine of air Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 When the engine dies do you lose all electrical power? Considering all that is said to have been done have you had the fuel filter replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 Might be a simple vacuum leak somewhere too. Leans out too much when it hits closed loop. PCM may have been compensating for leak until the memory was lost on some of the recent work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tttiimmyyyd Posted April 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 I am going to check all the vacuum lines, the engine does not lose electrical and yes I replaced the fuel filter when I did the pump/sending unit. I am going to have to get it hooked up to a scanner I think. My mind is boggled I am going to check all the relays, vacuum lines etc., grounds and I will get back to you guys I appreciate the help thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tttiimmyyyd Posted April 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 So i replaced cam shaft sensor and the car still runs for 3 mins and dies I had it hooked up to a scanner and it blows no codes at all I am thinking it is the computer does anyone have any knowledge about these computers? I do not know if it needs to be flashed or how to go about swapping my computer out please help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 I've seen bad MAP sensors do that...they're "stuck" at a value that's at least...possible, but not correct. Disconnect the plug from the MAP, and try to restart. If it keeps running after 2-3 minutes, you've probably found the issue. ...Don't forget to clear the code running it without the MAP sensor will set.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 I've seen bad MAP sensors do that...they're "stuck" at a value that's at least...possible, but not correct. Disconnect the plug from the MAP, and try to restart. If it keeps running after 2-3 minutes, you've probably found the issue. ...Don't forget to clear the code running it without the MAP sensor will set.. I also remember once on a Buick 3.3, having a bad water pump that sprayed...it screwed up the crank sensor, cracked the potting on the back side. The car would run, then die...and a bad crank sensor won't set a code, either. I'd check the MAP first, much easier to get to . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tttiimmyyyd Posted April 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 I replaced both the map sensor and the crank position sensor and it still runs for about 2 mins or so then dies I am soo stumped on this!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontiac6ksteawd Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Not sure if this car has a MAF, and to be honest, I am not sure if you can unplug it, or something to test, but that would be a good place to start.. Next, I would OHM check the injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tttiimmyyyd Posted April 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 ok its not the map or crank position senor i replaced both I am pretty sure it is the computer. The orginal computer went in the car it got wet somehow the seals went and fryed it. I pulled one from the junk yard with the same service tag. My wiring harness that connects to the computer 2 of the connectors were fryed so I rewired them, i did each wire individually to make sure i did it right it took me 2 hours. After i wired the new connectors I took the knock sensor or the electronic spark module out of my orginal computer and put it in the new one. The car started right up and ran for about a month. THe water pump seal went and was spraying coolant everywhere so i replaced that. THen drove the car and that same day the alternator went. I had that tested it was bad the car would not start so Iput a new one in and it started right up now it just runs for 3 mins and bogs then dies. I have been reading alot on this computer and it says there should be a prom or memcal that i need to put in the new computer from the old one. So i tore apart the dead old computer and there is no PROM or mem cal which makes me believe its soderd to the board. I have a 94 cutlass supreme it is not OBD1 or OB2 it is the one in between. So I am not sure if it has to be flashed to my car or what is going on and why it ran for a month and now all of a sudden its doing this?? someone who has knowledge on this please help i am losing sleep over this I have put so much time money and effort into this car over the years and i do not want to let it go!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tttiimmyyyd Posted April 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 I am going to test the fuel pressure I am going to replace the fuel pressure regulator and also OHM test the fuel injectors i tore the throttle body off cleaned the egr tube because it was clogged with carbon and i also let the car run and when it died i sprayed gas thru the throttle body and it kept it running which makes me think its fuel but also the computer could be doing that because it seems to shut off after 3 mins when it hits the computer loop I am soo stumped on this!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontiac6ksteawd Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Oh yikes, a OBD1.5. Those can be a nightmare to diagnose. Start with the injectors, and let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 OBD "1.5" is not hard to deal with. Just get a good scanner and it'll tell you everything... I never understood why ppl use that dumb paper clip "trick". Get a good scanner and view the data stream. Chances are you'll find an issue there. Sent from my iPhone in some random spot of Texas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 OBD "1.5" is not hard to deal with. Just get a good scanner and it'll tell you everything... I never understood why ppl use that dumb paper clip "trick". Get a good scanner and view the data stream. Chances are you'll find an issue there. Sent from my iPhone in some random spot of Texas. To my knowledge, the paper clip trick is done with OBD 1.0 cars, and there is no such trick for the 1.5 cars... and scanners can be picky about them at times, or might not have the correct connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 It's an OBD1 connector. I've never had an issue with any scanner have trouble with them. Sent from my iPhone in some random spot of Texas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tttiimmyyyd Posted April 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 what type of scanner would you suggest for OBD 1.5? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 Depends on how much information you want, and how much you wanna spend. Sent from my iPhone in some random spot of Texas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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