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Getrag 284/282 SS braided clutch hydrualics/bleeding procedure.


19Cutlass94
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For those of you that have a Getrag 284/282 and want to get rid of that accumulator between the master cylinder and slave cylinder, well first of all good choice! This will improve clutch pedal feel. It might make the pedal a little stiffer, but shouldnt be by much.

 

Heres what youll need, and what youll need to do.

 

First you need a 282/284 master and slave cylinder. I get them from roack auto on a wholesale closeout. They are very cheap and have name brands. These come with everything you need to install them.

 

Youll need these fittings for the slave and master cylinders:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281/

 

Heres the SS braided line that I used. NOTE: you can use a straigh line instead of one with a 90*. I just liked how this fit better than the straight line. Length is 20" which is more than enough room. I used an 18" hose, and its close. Not very much slack to move the line around.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220314/overview/

 

 

Now that you have all the parts, heres how to put them together. I HIGHLY recommend wearing some type of glove, as working with brake fluid sucks, and its nasty stuff.

 

Step 1 - Remove pin from slave cylinder which holds the hose in place. Remove the accumulator from the salve cylinder. Be sure to keep the salve cylinder vertial at all times to avoid any brake fluid from spilling out.

Step 2 - Insert one of the fittings into the slave clinder. Insert supplied pin, and use cotter pin for extra insurance. If cotter pin is too long, cut to decent length.

Step 3 - Install SS hose on the fitting. The 90* end of the hose will be installed on the slave cylinder. This will come clear later as you install it in the car. Remember, the whole time your doing this, keep slave cylinder vertical as to not spill brake fluid. Make sure fitting is TIGHT.

Step 4 - Time to work with master cylinder. Keep master cylinder vertical at all times while working as to not spill brake fluid. Remove pin holding the clutch line into the master cylinder.

Step 5 - Install the other fitting into the master cylinder. Insert supplied pin, and use cotter pin for extra insurance. If cotter pin is too long, cut to decent length.

Step 6 - Install SS hose to the master cylinder. Make sure fitting is TIGHT.

 

Now you have your custom SS braided hydrualic assembly!

 

Now comes the best part, bleeding! ( insert sarcasm )

 

This is how Ive always bled the 284 hydrualics, and have had very good results by doing it this way. Since you have made your hydrualic assembly, you now have air in the SS hose. Heres how to get rid of that air.

 

You will need to set this up EXACTLY like the following:

 

Step 1 - Have the reservoir as the highest point in the system. Then the master cylinder. SS hose is to be straight down, with no low or horizontal spots, and the slave cylinder at the bottom. Basically if you help the clutch hydrualics in the air by the reservoir, thats what it needs to look like while you are bleeding it.

 

Step 2 - Unclip the pushrod in the slave cylinder, and allow it to extend completely.

 

Step 3 - Heres where all the work is involved. Having the system as told in Step 1, push down on the slave cylinder to retract the pushrod. Once you have done that, allow the pushrod to extend completely. While doing this, watch the reservoir, and youll be able to see all the air bubbles coming up. Repeat this process untill you no longer see air coming up.

 

Once you have bled your hydrualic system, install in the car, and enjoy your new, better pedal feel!

 

 

***NOTE***

This is how I did mine. I have bled the hydrualics several times like this, sometimes I do this for 5 minutes, and other times for 30+ minutes. Just depends on how much air is in the system.

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  • 11 years later...

Hey Jay! over 11 years later I am still using your write up! links all still work! Thanks!

-Jarek

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