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GTP091

5 speed swap

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31 minutes ago, GTP091 said:

Cleaned the plenum up last night. Certainly needs a new PCV valve, and related hoses. The brake booster hose feels good but was loose on the plenum side as the speed clamp couldn’t squeee it tighter I’d like to replace it as well if I can get one.  I’ll need to test the tps as well. 

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Looks oh so pretty!  Nice job.

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I was all prepared to match the intake to the plenum with my die grinder and smooth it out to 100 grit but after sticking my fingers in the two mated back together I realized the factory did a very good job lining these two parts up. I can barely feel a ridge at all. A quick shave of the gasket is all I think I need to do. The whole port and polish benefits thing is a hotly debated topic so not sure if I want to spend the many hours doing this again for no little gain or hurt performance as some suggest. Did it on my GTP but many a gear head say to leave it rough and just take off the casting marks which are hardly noticeable on these two pieces.

Edited by GTP091

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Did you pull up the distribution cover in the valley? Wouldn't hurt to see what sort of grunge is under it & also remove the plug from the one end and clean the internal passage  out. There is a check ball in there that prevents oil from draining from the heads when the engine has been shut down. It should be kept clean to keep doing it's job.

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8 hours ago, 55trucker said:

Did you pull up the distribution cover in the valley? Wouldn't hurt to see what sort of grunge is under it & also remove the plug from the one end and clean the internal passage  out. There is a check ball in there that prevents oil from draining from the heads when the engine has been shut down. It should be kept clean to keep doing it's job.

You bet, that’s round 2. I already have the gasket for it.

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Well let’s continue to bastardize this thread that is so far only talk about a 5 speed swap. I’ll do a new thread called the actual 5 speed wasp when I get there. That’s not likely going to happen this winter as this winter it’s project rebuild the engine instead. So here’s the latest. I cleaned the EGR up nice like only to realize the gasket between the egr valves and the base is not easily obtained, or at least rockauto doesn’t list it.  there’s an a shit moment I shouldn’t have OCD’d the egr so much.  The gasket in question is the dirty one in the pic. 

Also would like new egr bolts.

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Edited by GTP091

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3 hours ago, GTP091 said:

Well let’s continue to bastardize this thread that is so far only talk about a 5 speed swap. I’ll do a new thread called the actual 5 speed wasp when I get there. That’s not likely going to happen this winter as this winter it’s project rebuild the engine instead. So here’s the latest. I cleaned the EGR up nice like only to realize the gasket between the egr valves and the base is not easily obtained, or at least rockauto doesn’t list it.  there’s an a shit moment I shouldn’t have OCD’d the egr so much.  The gasket in question is the dirty one in the pic. 

Also would like new egr bolts.

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don't feel too bad......clean up the gasket, apply some muffler cement to either side of it when you install it back onto the engine, but do so when you're in a position to fire up the engine. This will cure the cement.

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3 hours ago, GTP091 said:

And the latest on the valley cleanup. 

D92C26C3-D875-40FB-9BDF-9AA110F813B8.jpegThe latest compression test has #4 no higher than 60 psi so something up there. 

The ports are damned large, try shining a light up both sides & see if one of the valves is off its seat. with that cyl at TDC try pouring some thin machine oil in thru the port as well & note if the oil stays in the port collecting on the backside of the valve face.

Edited by 55trucker

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Not overly exciting but here’s the latest. Nothing like christmas to get in the way of progress. Now that’s out of the way here’s where I’m at. Ready to pop the cam carriers off. The Haynes manual nanners on about using fuel line to hold the lifters in place. I’ve read on here to just flip the engine upside down which makes more sense and then I don’t ruin fuel hose. Also I don’t have the two sizes they say to use. When assembling these engines gm must have had some kind of fancy jig? I imagine if i just lift it off it’ll be about the same as dumping a box of LEGO on the floor. If anyone that’s done an LQ1 rebuild before has any wisdom on this I’d be interested.

Also that son of a bitch jackshaft/timing belt primary pulley bolt wouldn’t budge and I partially stripped the bolt. Impact socket and a breaker bar would do nothing. Curse words a plenty, many of them... . Let me guess Left hand thread??

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Edited by GTP091

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Got the carrier off by holding it in place with two tie downs. I turned the engine upside down took the last two bolts out, loosened the straps one at a time, and lowered the carrier onto a bucket. I should patent that process worked great. The lifters look fantastic, that carrier is one tightly machined piece of aluminum.  Going to check the cam journals but I bet I’ll find they’re excellent. 

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Ive done an examination and found all but one of the lifters in great shape. One of them which is actually labelled number one has a sticky plunger. Hard to describe it really, all the others slide easily with some force but they don’t seem to be seizing.  It feels tighter than it should be. Wish I could easily buy just one or two and not the entire set. I’ll have to check eBay. I imagine if I put it back in it’ll be noisey and could fail eventually.

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Edited by GTP091

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69B24E2C-9894-4F75-A510-5B596592330C.thumb.jpeg.aff376a0c4407de371292b61660a2f40.jpegGot the other carrier off last night. All seems well from what i see so far. Will bag and tag each lifter and see if there’s any bad ones.  I’ve done some general research into hydraulic lifters and the consensus is to put em back where you found em and clean them with solvent to remove any dirt. The sticky plunger I found on one could just need a cleaning. If not it seems summit of all places might have them in stock.

Next up is off with the heads.. 

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Edited by GTP091

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I’ll accept any suggestions on machine shop work as well. Based on the cost I may look into getting the heads decked, even if they pass the straight edge test? Also wondering on a 3 or 5 angle valve job. A port and polish sounds kind of interesting but have learned if you change the shape of the combustion chamber at all you mess up the volume between cylinders and ruin the benefit. Not sure there yet

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So the dickwad I’m pointing at with my middle finger in the picture is still not out after staring at it for a week and several beers. Any ideas on reverse thread? It’s the jackshaft sprocket. Behind it is the actual timing chain.  I’ll need to get that pulley off there to check out the chain condition. Paint, clean, seal etc. It needs to come off there without wrecking bearings or the shaft. Fml it’s alwaus one fucking bolt that fucks a job up.

maybe I should consult the gm service manual for the ‘procedure’ I do have that

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Edited by GTP091

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17 hours ago, GTP091 said:

So the dickwad I’m pointing at with my middle finger in the picture is still not out after staring at it for a week and several beers. Any ideas on reverse thread? It’s the jackshaft sprocket. Behind it is the actual timing chain.  I’ll need to get that pulley off there to check out the chain condition. Paint, clean, seal etc. It needs to come off there without wrecking bearings or the shaft. Fml it’s alwaus one fucking bolt that fucks a job up.

maybe I should consult the gm service manual for the ‘procedure’ I do have that

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Mike,

 

that bolt is torqued up to just short of 100 ft.lbs, it is right a right hand thread, there isn't supposed to be any thread locker on the bolt, but we don't know the history of the engine,

at this point I'm thinking that a moderate amount of heat (propane torch) delicately applied to the cog surrounding the bolt might ease the frozen state. One needs to keep the heat directly off the bolt, warming up the surrounding area. The cog is pulled using the same puller that is used to remove the cam cogs from the front of the cams, it is an interference fit. 

Have you damaged the hex head on the bolt? (rounded it off)......I might try to wrap the belt around the pulley & tie the belt off with a pair of vice grips to tightly hold them there, grasp the grips firmly & start with an air gun, turn the gun down from full torque & just use the hammer action to try & free up the bolt..........and use a 6 point socket, no 12 point .

Edited by 55trucker

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I tried it first with a 6 point impact socket on a breaker bar. It’s an extended socket so part of how it slipped off the bolt head, arm torque was way off the centreline. I then put it on my cheap electric impact. Heat was a consideration will have to give it a try. I don’t have an air impact. Was not aware they have a hammer only mode that would have helped.

Edited by GTP091

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If you had another bolt to replace it,,, as a last resort you could grind the head off,,, remove the cog,,, and chances are the rest of the bolt will be hand tight... At least you'll be able to grab it with a pipe wrench or vice-grips...

Good luck,,,

Tom B...

An air-impact gun would be a help also...

Edited by walterdude

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That would be a *possible* resort,

 

issue with the method is after the bolt head has been snipped off & you finally have the front cover removed to get at the timing chain one still has to free the remaining stud from inside the front of the shaft. I'm thinking that the threads are damaged & that's the reason why the bolt will not turn out.

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