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55trucker last won the day on April 1

55trucker had the most liked content!

About 55trucker

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/19/1954

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    Oshawa, Ontario


  • Biography
    A long time a land far away.........
  • Location
    Oshawa, Ontario
  • Interests
    hobbies, hobbies and more hobbies, and ready to retire
  • Occupation
    too old to have a job but still need one

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  1. Not familiar with the Ciera instrument cluster, is there an oil pressure gauge or just an *idiot light*? Do you see anything to suggest that there is little or no oil pressure?
  2. Well, I was going to suggest ebay.......but you've found a source. As shown there are just two manuals for the 1995 set.
  3. At this point to adequately further diagnose the issue you really need the factory electrical service manual. One needs an accurate schematic of the car to know where everything goes. That particular fuse interacts with so many devices without a guide to show one the route that each conductor follows makes it difficult to diagnose. Indeed the SDM is the airbag sensor.
  4. Seeing as you haven't owned the vehicle very long has this issue just crept up or has it been there from the time you purchased the vehicle?
  5. Not familiar with the fuse numbering for the 1.5 cars.... does this link help you with the identification of the fuse in question?
  6. The valley area of the DOHC block is sealed off, it is not open to the engine internals, the intake manifold sits above it, not to it. The manifold is fastened to the heads, if you find oil in the recess of the valley that oil is from something else leaking (power steering pump reservoir, distribution cover gasket leaking etc. ) You''re letting your fears get the best of you, when the intake gaskets go coolant can leak into the valley area & as well the air/fuel mixture can be upset..
  7. Now that I have my camera back again.... here is the cluster schematic for the 91-93. As far as the wiring itself is concerned do not know if 94-96 conductor colours changed. *well.........this is a 1st.....the pic rotated for some reason & I can't correct it.*
  8. Without any indepth tools to do some diagnostics try this......when this situation occurs simply pull off any one of the three forward bank plug wires, stuff a screwdriver into the end and with another individual at the ignition key hold the screwdriver close to a ground & watch for ignition spark at the electrode. One can check one of three forward injectors with a noid lamp to watch for the circuit pulsing in the same test manner. If you've both spark & injector pulse then the issue is elsewhere. The fuel pressure should be in the neighborhood of 42psi ign on eng off & the pressure should hold relatively stable.
  9. The DOHC will pull approx 16" vacuum at idle. Vacuum ports on the intake are located center rear of upper plenum for the booster right rear of plenum for the MAP which supplies a source for the trans modulator & the FPR as well the HVAC controls. 2 ports behind the throttle body for the EVAP solenoid & the PCV, all of these access points make use of molded tubing with rubber ends at both ends. Check them all at both ends.....and have a close look at the tubing for splits/cracks. The EVAP solenoid is normally open, the PCM closes it at idle, if the solenoid is stuck open that will cause a problem at idle. Have a look at the EGR gaskets as well, a leak there is a vacuum leak. Just out of curiosity sake how did you go about replacing the timing belt? by the book with the cam cog pullers & rotating the engine multiple times for each cam before setting the cogs?
  10. You've got the manual for the electrical section? Section 8 is where the diagrams are.....the schematic for the the cluster is in there, should/could be 8A, starting at page 80
  11. With a 3.1 engine you'll have one of the smaller bars, my '91 DOHC GT is fitted with the big 36mm bar, the ends where the control arm bushings are placed is 24mm. Can you get your hands on a vernier caliper?
  12. Can you not plug the scantool into the cigarette lighter? Is the cigarette lighter dead? The EVAP solenoid is normally open, with engine running at idle the ECM closes the solenoid. One can check the vacuum on both sides, with the engine running one can test the vacuum to the solenoid from the intake port just by removing the rubber hose at the solenoid and you should get vacuum, you can also test with a vacuum pump with ignition on (engine off). One can test for vacuum back to the canister from the solenoid in the same manner. When you tested the vacuum right at the container did you have one of the two ports capped off while pulling vacuum on the other? If that's what you did & you cannot pull vacuum right AT the container I'd say the container has a split in the case somewhere. The rubber hoses do not last forever, trying to change them right at the tank can be a awkward task seeing as one can't easily get their hand in there to pull them from the tank much less push them back onto the ends of the pipes.
  13. The pulse width should not be *0* persay, one should still see a reading that will fluctuate with the throttle position. The o2 should be in the middle of the scale .. .45v. The evap does not come into play at engine idle (both closed & open loop), the PCM will open the solenoid to the evap system only when the throttle is off idle such as when the vehicle is moving, when the throttle is in the overrun position (off the throttle when moving) the PCM will close the evap solenoid. Check the vacuum line from the intake port to the evap solenoid for a possible leak on the engine side of the solenoid, if you've a leak THERE then that will affect idle performance. It may very well be that you also have a leak in the evap lines at the fuel tank, they will rot out there but you can't see them because they are hidden by the rear transverse spring. Are you getting any stink of fuel from the rear of the car when the engine is running or shortly after you shut off the engine?
  14. Try disconnecting the o2 sensor (forcing open loop), note what the difference in your injector pulse width is as compared to the reading you see with the o2 connected (closed loop). If you're running rich the pulse width will be a greater value than what it should be, with the o2 sensor disconnected the pulse width should return to stoic open loop value.
  15. Your scantool (a proper scanner?) should see the voltage constantly sweeping back & forth between .2 volts & .9 volts, can't remember if 1.5 displays the A/F ratio as an actual figure as OBD1 does or a percentage as OBDII does. The constant back & forth action takes place under all conditions. This is my OTC unit, (this is OBD1) the a/f is in the upper left corner, loop is closed, the o2 is displayed as .41v at the time the pic was taken, the lean/rich light will alternate between each other all the time.
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